jwpatches
Member
I'm personally changing the timing belt on my 2003 Golf ALH. This is the third timing belt as the car has 264000 miles. The other two were done by shops. Of course, a bunch of new bolts came with the kit.
1. When I was installing the new large lower roller, instructions say to torque to 33ft/lbs then another 90 deg. When I did this I felt the bolt or the hole yield and it would no longer hold this torque.
3. Likewise when installing a new serpentine belt tensioner, the longest bolt yielded. I pulled this bolt back out and the threads are still good making me believe the threads in the AC/Alternator bracket have stripped a bit.
Is any of this a real problem?
How could these conditions be repaired and still meet the torque requirements?
4. The large bolts that connect the body mount to the engine mount also say to torque then another 90 deg. After the initial torque, they didn't move the full 90 deg. Is this a problem?
After the other experiences above, I didn't want to press my luck.
5. Now, do I have to go to someone with VAG-COM to get the injector pump timing verified?
With the new turbo, timing belt, cam/lifters, vacuum lines, tensioner, tools, fluids, burning out the intake, cleaning the EGR, deleting the snow screen, cleaning the MAF sensor, replacing N75, I've got over $2000 just in parts, having done all the work myself. The car is worth $3600 (according to KBB). I hope I can resolve these bolt issues as I feel this car will continue to go well into the future. Gotta look into the transmission chatter, too.
Hope it's all worth it.
1. When I was installing the new large lower roller, instructions say to torque to 33ft/lbs then another 90 deg. When I did this I felt the bolt or the hole yield and it would no longer hold this torque.
3. Likewise when installing a new serpentine belt tensioner, the longest bolt yielded. I pulled this bolt back out and the threads are still good making me believe the threads in the AC/Alternator bracket have stripped a bit.
Is any of this a real problem?
How could these conditions be repaired and still meet the torque requirements?
4. The large bolts that connect the body mount to the engine mount also say to torque then another 90 deg. After the initial torque, they didn't move the full 90 deg. Is this a problem?
After the other experiences above, I didn't want to press my luck.
5. Now, do I have to go to someone with VAG-COM to get the injector pump timing verified?
With the new turbo, timing belt, cam/lifters, vacuum lines, tensioner, tools, fluids, burning out the intake, cleaning the EGR, deleting the snow screen, cleaning the MAF sensor, replacing N75, I've got over $2000 just in parts, having done all the work myself. The car is worth $3600 (according to KBB). I hope I can resolve these bolt issues as I feel this car will continue to go well into the future. Gotta look into the transmission chatter, too.
Hope it's all worth it.