2.5 years broken, new head and having issues getting it going again

BobnOH

not-a-mechanic
Joined
May 29, 2004
Location
central Ohio
TDI
New Beetle 2003 manual
Do not mess with that big central nut. The adjustment is done using the 3 bolts what attach the pulley. If for some strange reason the center nut is disturbed, you'll need to remove the pump and re-index the thing, no small task.
 

Tdijarhead

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Nov 10, 2013
Location
Lawrenceville PA
TDI
2003 TDI Jetta Daughters Car, 2001 TDI Beetle, Wife’s car, 2005 Golf TDI Mine, all 5 spds
You loosen the three nuts on the ip and then bump (slightly) the big central nut. You’re not going to loosen that big central nut by moving it slightly forward or backward.
 

Nuje

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Feb 11, 2005
Location
Island near Vancouver
TDI
2015 Sportwagen; Golf GLS 2002 (swap from 2L gas); 2016 A3 e-tron
It only takes a very small movement on the IP nut , forward to make a huge difference, we are talking like 1/32 to 1/16 of an inch. Like a nit on a gnats nut small.
To this point: A full rotation of that sprocket is 360°; if you move it much more than 1°, you probably moved it too much. *That* is how little you want to move it.
 

Jmanninb91

Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2017
Location
Chattanooga, TN
TDI
2003 Jetta Auto
I looked at another TDI that was getting the timing belt done and saw the cam gear bolts had marks where they used to be and could tell it recently jumped when the timing belt messed up.
Assuming that's common then.
 

Tdijarhead

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Nov 10, 2013
Location
Lawrenceville PA
TDI
2003 TDI Jetta Daughters Car, 2001 TDI Beetle, Wife’s car, 2005 Golf TDI Mine, all 5 spds
I recently thought I had a belt failure on my daughters beetle, she didn’t but thats another story.

Belt failure is usually for 1 of 2 reasons. You left it on to long without changing it and one of the moving parts seized breaking the belt.

Or it was installed incorrectly. It sounds like the engine you’re looking at with the marks is a “mark and pray” job where you mark up the cam,, crank, pump and whatever else, pull the old belt off and pray that the new belt goes back on correctly, instead of using the proper tools.

Rotating the tensioner in a counterclockwise direction will kill your tensioner yet some do exactly that. Not loosening the cam or pump sprocket during tensioning can result in an incorrectly tensioned belt. A properly installed belt should not jump time, an improperly installed tensioner can cause the belt to jump time.

If the belt slipped or broke, the person doing the work needs to pull the head and determine if valve and piston contact has been made. I assume the engine you mentioned is not yours.


Did you do the adjustments on yours yet?
 

Jmanninb91

Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2017
Location
Chattanooga, TN
TDI
2003 Jetta Auto
The belt shredded because the water pump locked up. I had the timing service and new head installed.

Just chasing issues and fixing it up. But I adjusted timing tonight. On the advanced line now, was worried about going over the line so it's right on the border.
 

Tdijarhead

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Nov 10, 2013
Location
Lawrenceville PA
TDI
2003 TDI Jetta Daughters Car, 2001 TDI Beetle, Wife’s car, 2005 Golf TDI Mine, all 5 spds
IQ looks good, I would probably try to back the timing off by a mouse whisker. Make sure your engine is at operating temperature before adjusting it. I like the timing just below the top line. Some like it just above or below the middle line.
 

Jmanninb91

Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2017
Location
Chattanooga, TN
TDI
2003 Jetta Auto
IQ looks good, I would probably try to back the timing off by a mouse whisker. Make sure your engine is at operating temperature before adjusting it. I like the timing just below the top line. Some like it just above or below the middle line.
Thanks!! I put the new filter on my 01m automatic and did a flush. Butvi need help real quick on my atf level...
Here's what I did
Pulled drain plug and a lot ran out before pulling the stem out, that normal when off?? Also replaced the trans filter
Added 2.5qts atf then started up and went thru gears until it was warm. With it still running I opened the drain plug and it poured out fast and then streamed out for 10 seconds or so. Told my brother to add the rest of the 1gal jug and it poured fast and then kinda poured fast sideways and I called it.
I think I let enough run out but didn't measure. It was also higher in the front right then the back but it was on a hill so it helped....
Plus we added Lucas maybe 400ml as well

It shifts better, but still when you sit in drive but on the brake the pump whines real bad. It did that before the change. But I feel it grabs at lower rpm now and shifts better. I'm happy. Just thinking I over filled.
This time to recheck, just 35-45c temp. Leveled. Remove drain plug until it drips? Slow pour?
 

Tdijarhead

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Nov 10, 2013
Location
Lawrenceville PA
TDI
2003 TDI Jetta Daughters Car, 2001 TDI Beetle, Wife’s car, 2005 Golf TDI Mine, all 5 spds
Coolairvw’s fluid and filter change procedure. Also if you look around on his site he has other 01m procedures.

http://kansascitytdi.com/01m-filter-change/

If I recall correctly the car needs to be level and the fluid at a certain operating temperature, to accurately fill the transmission.
 

Jmanninb91

Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2017
Location
Chattanooga, TN
TDI
2003 Jetta Auto
Coolairvw’s fluid and filter change procedure. Also if you look around on his site he has other 01m procedures.

http://kansascitytdi.com/01m-filter-change/

If I recall correctly the car needs to be level and the fluid at a certain operating temperature, to accurately fill the transmission.

Didn't know if there was any variance. I saw a few videos of people doing it differently on when to cap I'll recheck soon
 

Powder Hound

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Oct 25, 1999
Location
Under a Bridge, Crestview, FL, USA
TDI
'00 Golf 4dr White 5sp, '02 Jettachero 5sp, Wife's '03 NB Platinum Gray auto(!)
Jmannin did it right until the very last. You remove the plug (leaving the red stand pipe in place), wait while the stream is steady, then cap it as soon as the exit stream starts to waver.

Cheers,

PH
 

Jmanninb91

Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2017
Location
Chattanooga, TN
TDI
2003 Jetta Auto
Would my timing to advanced cause my injection pump to rattle?? I started my car and walked back inside and I heard rattling from under the hood and it seems like it's coming from the injection pump.
Maybe just wore out.
 

rotarykid

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Apr 27, 2003
Location
Piedmont of N.C. & the plains of Colorado
TDI
1997 Passat TDI White,99.5 Blue Jetta TDI
Pretty much everyone here who is a mechanic knows our cars are set up with the timing later than earlier for nox emissions reasons , not just for pressure wave reasons. At a cost in fuel economy. ..

And 5 degrees before top dead center as a baseline setting if you're not over fueling will not cause harm if you monitor boost pressures , egt's and you do not run it hard while the engine is still cold , which you shouldn't do in the first place will cause no harm .

I have spent decades adjusting the timing early to 5 degrees BTDC in the ecu settings on 1Z & ALH engines, mechanical pump IDI's before that to improve fuel economy and power out of the hole, but I know what I'm doing and I constantly monitor for boost pressure spikes and real time EGR Temps.

But as you have been worned , if you go too early BTDC without proper care being taken the outcome can be broken in half turbos and blown head gaskets.

There are a few on this club that change head gaskets like most of us change our oil because they do push the timing to extremes early here to increase power and for significant fuel economy improvements.... but as many will tell others that without proper knowledge & experience, don't try this at home....lol...
 
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