If this is a unique design that serves a useful purpose then you should apply for a US patent...
even if you don't have the gumption to take a product to market you might be able to scare up a venture capitalist to front the whole deal...
or sell the design to a supplier of aftermarket parts.
I became interested in this project of yours because I want to preserve the health of my KP-39 without having to bird-dog the tach all the time...
I don't know what you mean to bird-dog the tach, but if its a vacuum operated vnt with a standard mount actuator then this will do. As my car is running, its just a nice smooth linear boost curve that tops out at about 22 psi. Also this will make sure the vanes wont stick in one position or another as every time I hit 22 psi it is because the actuator is moving the vanes through their full range of motion as opposed to reaching 22 psi because of stuck/sticking vanes. Trust me, my vanes were so stuck I couldn't even move them with my hand, I had to use a screwdriver to leverage them through the carbon buildup. I had my hand under the hood almost every day messing around with the vanes to try and free them up after driving by connecting and then disconnecting vacuum while I pushed and pulled and stuff
. So no more need for Italian tuneups as regular daily driving will suffice!
Unfortunately this is not a unique design. I got into this because I saw a need and a gap and I couldn't afford the time or money to figure out why mine wasn't working like it should. I already have a way to control the n75 valve and make any boost curve I want through software based on tps, boost etc. with an external controller, but it is very expensive and I believed I could do the same thing without all that. By the way, the frequency of the N75 is 300Hz just to clear up any confusion. That's really fast, no controller I have seen can run a solenoid that fast and whomever is building external controllers should know that. The solution is to swap out the N75 to run a standard 60Hz solenoid just like regular EBC's. Or as an alternative, run a gas vw 1.8t N75 and allow the computer to control that as it relates to boost, but you still will need the appropriate pressure based actuator. Why a vacuum system was chosen is beyond me!
Truth be told my uncle convinced me that I should try and do a feeler because it was so simple and worked so well so I did lol.
If I built a racing engine and controlled boost like I am now, and people saw, they would ask me how I did it and if I would sell it to them. If I put a vnt turbo on a gas engine or a non computer controlled engine and swapped it into another vehicle, people would want to know how I controlled boost and if I was going to sell anything.
Dont get me wrong, I am absolutely all for PD and common rail engines. However, I had one of these engines, I would still swap over if nothing else just for simplicity, peace of mind, reliability, cost, and performance and mileage.
I know when anyone figures out how simple it really is, they will just copy it, however, its still going to cost them the same or more than just buying something from me if I was a vendor. Then there are some people who just want something the can bolt on and go and are willing to pay a little for the convenience of having the work done for them.
Once I had limp mode deleted from my ecu, it became a whole lot easier to experiment to where I am now. It still took me a lot of time and work to figure this out and truthfully, as it sits, I wouldn't ever trigger limp mode again. But that is the whole point, if the tuner is tuning the engine and they are telling the computer where the requested boost should be based on various parameters and you don't know what that requested is then therein lies the problem. So if your tuner tells the engine to request 5 psi at X load, say driving on the highway, but you are producing X more or less than requested, computer enters limp mode. Essentially, you would have to tell the tuner what it is you want before you even know and then ask them to program that in as requested. When towing my 1800 lb trailer I was always running less than 7 psi at 55 mph and I couldn't even trigger my water/meth injection until l 10 psi. How lame, I would have felt more comfortable running 10 to 15 psi and running the water/meth injection at a steady state rather then intermittently. But I cant tell my tuner that and there is no way anyone would spend the time to reprogram the ECU for different requested boost so a guy can experiment. The way mine works if if I was towing that same trailer now, I would be at that 10 to 15 psi, but I would have always triggered limp mode, now I don't and I can run my water/meth at a constant rate as oppossed to only when I try to accelerate. Ok I got off topic haha.
I know if there is enough interest I can make a deal with the manufacture to buy and modify and sell under my name their actuator, IF there is enough interest. I would get the price down around $200 for the end user after I do all the work to modify it. That's as much as you would pay right now for an unmodified actuator and then you figure it out on your own.
Hope that helps and if you know the boost limit of the KP-39 you can set this up and hit that limit all day long without exceeding it. So if you want 10 psi or 15 or 20 or 30 or whatever it can be done, no spikes, no lag just smooth and flat and no drop off at high rpm. I can't make it drop off at high rpm I don't know what that's all about. Hope I cold help.