It’s getting cold out... aftermarket seat heater time!

ToddA1

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 3, 2011
Location
NJ 08002
TDI
'96 B4V, '97 B4 (sold), '97 Jetta (scrapped)
This was a trial. Spoke to people who used these and they said they worked better than the factory seat heaters. This was a test run, prior to installing them in my project car, if it ever gets finished.

2 seat kit. About $35 shipped from eBay.




This may be an OE footprint.




I read to add foil tape to reflect the heat and make the pads more efficient.






After I buttoned up the bottom, I figured I’d better test the kit... worked fine.




Did the same to the seat back.






Reassembled. Pad wire routing, is somewhat factory.




As I’m posting this, I’m sitting in the seat with the heat maxed... pretty toasty. The switch is huge....




I’ll test run this in the Rotbox over the winter and see how they hold up. Need to get the driver seat done and the harnes installed.

-Todd
 

Mongler98

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 23, 2011
Location
COLORADO (SE of Denver)
TDI
98 Jetta TDI AHU 1.9L (944 TDI swap in progress) I moved so now i got nothing but an AHU in a garage on a pallet.
dont skimp on the quality of the heater pads, and while your in there add 1" of memory foam, best thing i ever did.
 

Steve Addy

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 7, 2002
Location
Iowa
TDI
97 Mk3
Todd

Did you use any adhesive to anchor the heater pad to the tape? I noticed on the one B3 seat I took apart that both pads had moved around some, I think the back was the worst of the two.

Also, any plans to try and use factory rheostat switch for this?

Post up a link to the kit you got please!

Steve
 

alexsmith10

Member
Joined
May 9, 2017
Location
TN
TDI
B7, A3
I'm almost certain the factory rheostat would be pretty easy to get to work for these. Both switches are basic potentiometers, I suppose only the wiring could be a little tricky if the non OEM kit uses a few less wires.

Well done Todd.
 

ToddA1

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 3, 2011
Location
NJ 08002
TDI
'96 B4V, '97 B4 (sold), '97 Jetta (scrapped)
Todd

Did you use any adhesive to anchor the heater pad to the tape? I noticed on the one B3 seat I took apart that both pads had moved around some, I think the back was the worst of the two.

Also, any plans to try and use factory rheostat switch for this?

Post up a link to the kit you got please!
No additional adhesive was used. The pads have strips on the length that’s pretty aggressive... it can be seen in one of the pics.

The heated skins I pulled from B3 bases were stitched to the covers; I believe they’re also stitched on my Corrado Gray Dot seats.

As you and I know, using these with the factory harness was a thought I had for years... I just never got around to it. I was waiting for you to be the guinea pig.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/4Pcs-2Seat...Switch-Kits-/292480426984?txnId=1605703990019

I ordered these because they advertised a 20” length. I think they ended up being around 18”. I think all of the pads, from all sellers, were pretty much the same dimensions.


I'm almost certain the factory rheostat would be pretty easy to get to work for these. Both switches are basic potentiometers, I suppose only the wiring could be a little tricky if the non OEM kit uses a few less wires.
The plugs at the seats have 6(?) wires. I pulled out a spare B4 harness, switch and relay, but couldn’t get the relay to click. Not sure what’s bad, but I didn’t spend too much time trying to figure it out. I wanted to get back to the Rotbox.

Yesterday morning, I drove a B4 to work. The comparison is against parts that are over 20 years old, but the aftermarket kit seems to heat better.

Last night, I got the driver seat done. It took a lot longer because I repaired the blown out foam on the lower and seat back cushion. It’s still a little flattened, but I’ll say it’s 90-95% perfect. I should have done this last year, but I got used to it.

I’ll try and post pics later. Otherwise, this project may get completed tonight or tomorrow.

-Todd
 

ToddA1

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 3, 2011
Location
NJ 08002
TDI
'96 B4V, '97 B4 (sold), '97 Jetta (scrapped)



















I’ll live with the switch placement...

Only 3 connections needed. Grabbed constant and switched power from the factory alarm harness... needed to depin and move switched power away from the starter interrupt. Grabbed a ground from the hub that’s at the kick panel.

Took the opportunity to vacuum the car while it was easy. Got the car back together and tested the driver side heat. Heats up very quickly and gives very good heat, although it’s only about 55° out.

I think I may be most impressed with how comfortable the driver seat is, now. This seat is actually pretty supportive. Sitting in a B4 seat is like sitting on a couch.

Takeaways:
- Easy to install... I like.
- Seems to heat very well and very quickly... I like.
- Cheap... I like.
- The switch has detents at each position... I like.
- The upper icons are lit any time the car is on... I don’t like.
- The dial numbers are only lit, if not on 0... I don’t like.
- Every dial detent, does not change voltage output... I don’t care.
- Blue and red illumination... I don’t like.
- I’m nitpicking a kit that is less than $40 shipped... take it for what it is.

-Todd
 

Steve Addy

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 7, 2002
Location
Iowa
TDI
97 Mk3
Todd
What's the blue covering you used on the splits in the foam? Does it have adhesive backing or did you use a spray adhesive?


Steve
 

ToddA1

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 3, 2011
Location
NJ 08002
TDI
'96 B4V, '97 B4 (sold), '97 Jetta (scrapped)
It’s just black, heavy canvas... I used what I had. Denim or any other sturdy fabric would also work; nothing that stretches. I do both sides of the repair and apply 2 layers against the seat frame contact areas, where the metal would blow through.

If your covers aren’t padded, thinner is better and you should sand the repair to blend. I didn’t do any sanding, and the repairs are undetectable.

I used 3M Spray 90 and another heavy duty spray, when the 90 ran out. Used them for the foam and fabric. Don’t use bulk stuff in cans, unless you have the means to spray it. Soaks in causes issues... been there, done that.

Did you ever complete your seats?

-Todd
 

Steve Addy

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 7, 2002
Location
Iowa
TDI
97 Mk3
It’s just black, heavy canvas... I used what I had. Denim or any other sturdy fabric would also work; nothing that stretches. I do both sides of the repair and apply 2 layers against the seat frame contact areas, where the metal would blow through.

If your covers aren’t padded, thinner is better and you should sand the repair to blend. I didn’t do any sanding, and the repairs are undetectable.

I used 3M Spray 90 and another heavy duty spray, when the 90 ran out. Used them for the foam and fabric. Don’t use bulk stuff in cans, unless you have the means to spray it. Soaks in causes issues... been there, done that.

Did you ever complete your seats?

-Todd

Not finished yet, been distracted with other things here. I think the majority of the coverings have been washed but reassembly hasn't been started yet. I need to get on with this.


Steve
 
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