96 Passat rear wheel bearing

So my right rear bearing just went out. It started roaring about a week ago and yesterday it stopped roaring but the rear end was loose, like a rear wheel drive car on ice. Pulled the tire and the rotor was so sloppy, maybe .75".
Pulled cap and cotter pin, unscrewed the nut by hand, bearing came out still in tact.
I have a couple of questions.
1. Should I replace the stub axle? Not sure if it is still in spec.
2. Does the rotor have a bearing race that is replaceable or can I buy the rotor assembly complete?

I'm look at the TDI parts site now. I don't want to put a new bearing in a bad race or on a bad spindle.

Big-g-run said:

So my right rear bearing just went out. It started roaring about a week ago and yesterday it stopped roaring but the rear end was loose, like a rear wheel drive car on ice. Pulled the tire and the rotor was so sloppy, maybe .75".
Pulled cap and cotter pin, unscrewed the nut by hand, bearing came out still in tact.
I have a couple of questions.
1. Should I replace the stub axle? Not sure if it is still in spec.
2. Does the rotor have a bearing race that is replaceable or can I buy the rotor assembly complete?

I'm look at the TDI parts site now. I don't want to put a new bearing in a bad race or on a bad spindle.

Click to expand...

Answers:
1. Only if it looks like the surface where the bearing rides is bad, then you should consider replacement, otherwise you might be able to clean it up. Just be sure threads for the nut are intact.

2. Yes, the rotor has a bearing race pressed in on both sides. They can (and should) be replaced if you get new bearings, which always comes with new races. Extracting them can be a little bit of a pita but necessary.

I've never known anyone to sell a new rotor with races already installed but perhaps. I've just never looked for it that way.

Steve

Last time I saw rotors come with pre-installed races was for GM B-body caprices, parisiennes etc back in the 90's. Never seen them since.

Knocking out the old races are not that hard with a hammer and a punch. installing the new races is a little more tricky - best to have a brass punch with clean edges to install the new race. take your time and clean up the punch driving surface as needed while installing the race.

easy way to check the spindle is if the surface (where the bearing sits) is clean with it's original machining / surface finish. Also, you can install a new bearing and ensure there is no play between the bearing race and the spindle.

I have a cheap set of race drivers I use for installation. There's a bunch of different sized drifts and a handle they screw on to. No chance of damaging the race and much easier to install it straight.

My set is from Prince Auto, I'd imagine Harbor Freight etc have them too.

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vanbcguy said:

I have a cheap set of race drivers I use for installation. There's a bunch of different sized drifts and a handle they screw on to. No chance of damaging the race and much easier to install it straight.

My set is from Prince Auto, I'd imagine Harbor Freight etc have them too.

Sent from my LG-H873 using Tapatalk

Click to expand...

Likewise I think I used my great HF wheel bearing press kit to do races on the new rear rotors for the wagon. IIRC it was a breeze with the press.

Steve

I use an old race that I finessed with the grinder.

-Todd

ToddA1 said:

I use an old race that I finessed with the grinder.

-Todd

Click to expand...

I do the same - if you have an old race, the easiest way to turn it into a driver is to cut a slot in it.

I replaced the rotor, stub axle, bearings and races. Everything came apart and went together very nicely. I knocked out the inside old race and used it to knock in the new one.
Packed the bearings really well by hand.