KrissyPTN
Member
New to the forum and 1st time TDI owner. My DMF is failing and would like to get some input on converting to the LUK SMF. A little worried about the raffle that has been talked about. Thank you
DMF to SMF LUK conversion?
- Thread starter KrissyPTN
- Start date
turbobrick240
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Nov 18, 2014
- Location
- maine
- TDI
- 2011 vw golf tdi(gone to greener pastures), 2001 ford f250 powerstroke
The smf setups don't seem to work very well with the steel syncros on the 02Q trans. A fluiddampr helps, but isn't a complete cure- or cheap. I'd recommend a Luk dmf and clutch kit. You can find both on partsgeek for ~$500 shipped.
Last edited:
CoolAirVw
Vendor
Either get a stock clutch and drop it in. Or get a solid flywheel and live with just a touch of noise.
Not a hard decision. Stock DMF is readily available and works good and is economical.
Solid flywheel gives you the benefit of the DMF will never fail again, but you have to live with slight noise. NO-one really complains of the noise. Its just not a problem.
Not a hard decision. Stock DMF is readily available and works good and is economical.
Solid flywheel gives you the benefit of the DMF will never fail again, but you have to live with slight noise. NO-one really complains of the noise. Its just not a problem.
maxmoo
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jan 19, 2011
- Location
- Lakefield, Ontario, Canada
- TDI
- 2000 golf, 2001 golf, 2000 beetle, 2003 wagon, 2004 golf, 2004 jetta, all diesels
How many miles on your dmf?
...they actualy hold up very well and do serve a purpose.
A vag transmission specialist, who rebuilds dozens a year, told me the six speeds should not be run with smf....5 spds aren't as vulnerable.
Slurry Pumper
Veteran Member
I swapped out my dmf when it failed and got a South Bend Stage II Endurance clutch. The set up worked well for about 10,000 miles or so then I started grinding in 1st, and 2nd gear. I had the gearbox rebuilt and it lasted for around 5,000 miles when the grinding into gear started again. I didn't have the cash or the will to get the gearbox rebuilt so I drove anyway knowing that I could just give the car up to the dealer and get the GTI I always wanted anyway. So now it has been a year and around 35,000 more miles on the car with me starting in either 1st or 2nd from a full stop depending on the road's inclination, then shifting to 3rd and so on, then on the way back down, the downshifting stops at 3rd gear and I use the brakes to stop from there.
So now the clutch started slipping under high torque conditions such as going onto the turnpike and trying to get from 30 to 80 mph in as short of time as possible. Typically starting off from a stop, it is O.K., it is only when I throw down the hammer and start rollin coal when I get the slippage. In the next few weeks, I am coming over the top with a new hydraulic throwout bearing, fluid dampener, completely new synchros and synchro hubs, bearing and everything else that goes on the shaft for 1st and 2nd gear. The clutch is being sent back for resurfacing, and i'm not sure if the shifting fork is made of steel, but when I'm done it will be.
I've noticed over the last year that when I come off of the highway and sit at the light for a minute or so, I will still get a slight grindage going into 1st or 2nd to start off again. It is like the clutch isn't fully disengaged. It is not enough to make the engine even notice, but I suspect it is the cause for my synchros to burn up.
I fully copy industrial mechanical equipment with an optical scanner that has the resolution to handle copying synchros. When I pull the old ones out, I am going to scan them and compare them to the new ones. Put all that into a cad file and scan the casing as well while I'm at it and see if any improvements can be made.
I would recommend staying with the dmf unless you have tuned your car and need the extra torque capabilities. I have a stage III with the larger turbo and other goodies that make the car actually feel like a peppy highway runner. Of course off the line is pretty good as well since I would typically start in 2nd for AH driving anyway. I have no doubt that starting in 2nd, and going to 3rd, or starting in 1st and going to 3rd for the last year has not been good for the clutch so I'm not surprised that the slippage has started to show up, but like I said it is only during high torque requirements for the time being.
So now the clutch started slipping under high torque conditions such as going onto the turnpike and trying to get from 30 to 80 mph in as short of time as possible. Typically starting off from a stop, it is O.K., it is only when I throw down the hammer and start rollin coal when I get the slippage. In the next few weeks, I am coming over the top with a new hydraulic throwout bearing, fluid dampener, completely new synchros and synchro hubs, bearing and everything else that goes on the shaft for 1st and 2nd gear. The clutch is being sent back for resurfacing, and i'm not sure if the shifting fork is made of steel, but when I'm done it will be.
I've noticed over the last year that when I come off of the highway and sit at the light for a minute or so, I will still get a slight grindage going into 1st or 2nd to start off again. It is like the clutch isn't fully disengaged. It is not enough to make the engine even notice, but I suspect it is the cause for my synchros to burn up.
I fully copy industrial mechanical equipment with an optical scanner that has the resolution to handle copying synchros. When I pull the old ones out, I am going to scan them and compare them to the new ones. Put all that into a cad file and scan the casing as well while I'm at it and see if any improvements can be made.
I would recommend staying with the dmf unless you have tuned your car and need the extra torque capabilities. I have a stage III with the larger turbo and other goodies that make the car actually feel like a peppy highway runner. Of course off the line is pretty good as well since I would typically start in 2nd for AH driving anyway. I have no doubt that starting in 2nd, and going to 3rd, or starting in 1st and going to 3rd for the last year has not been good for the clutch so I'm not surprised that the slippage has started to show up, but like I said it is only during high torque requirements for the time being.