Canadian_Grizzly
Veteran Member
I've got a sinus cold, I think I'll drink some draino as I've heard some people actually lived after the poisoning. I just don't want the hassle of going to the pharmacy.
Um, the aluminum can isn't a good example to use because the inside of it is coated with a fine microlayer of plastic. Soda has a very low pH, diet soda moreso, and if the inside of the soda can wasn't coated, it would in essence be a battery.Tom W. said:Yes, it will. What parts of the exhaust side of the turbo are aluminum? I'm guessin that none of the parts are aluminum, as aluminum doesn't stand up to exhaust heat very well.
If anything is made out of aluminum, it's probably pretty thick.
One way to find out what Easy-off will do to aluminum is to spray some on an aluminum can, wait 3 hours, and see what happens. -Which I did, tore apart a coke can, left the Easy-Off in the can 24 hours- no affect on the aluminum can.
Yes, the O2 sensors are removed.Archer said:I wonder if the O2 sensors are removed to protect them from damage during the cleaning process (may burn the tips off).
OK, so I tried it and it worked!asnowsquall said:One concern I just thought about. If its done with the exhaust connected (lazy mans approach), is whats coming out the tailpipe and when is it going to come out?? Easy oven nasty chemical particulates getting breathed in wouldn't be a good thing. Maybe not a good idea.
I used nothing to direct, and I'm sure not the perfect spray direction but I did get it in the hole (finally, all that potty training paid off!)Tom W. said:Asnowsquall- Very cool- and 10X easier than my approach. Did you do anything to direct the spray down into the turbo- like put a straw down there, and spray thru the straw? My turbo's been working perfectly since I cleaned it. Can't wait to get a few more people trying a chemical clean, what the results will be.
Maybe then the Easy Off isn't even necessary? Depends how gummed up it is. I suspect in your case just forcing the actuator arm back and forth a little harder than the car's vacuum system itself can do would have worked. We'll never know now because you didn't do it that way, but its an interesting thought.asnowsquall said:OK, so I tried it and it worked!
8) ... Enter, a small pair of vise grips. Clamp onto actuating arm, and start rocking it up and down, not to hard and after about 3 minutes it made an audible clink and broke free.
Yes I have a EGR delete kit, and the blank off plate is right on top of the manifold which is part of what made it so easy.mmmmdiesel said:What is the "EGR plug"? Do you mean the pipe that goes from the exhaust up to the EGR valve? Disconnect that and spray in there?
Do you have an EGR delete installed (block off plate)? I don't. Mine is stock. I suspect most people are running stock as well.
Maybe then the Easy Off isn't even necessary? Depends how gummed up it is. I suspect in your case just forcing the actuator arm back and forth a little harder than the car's vacuum system itself can do would have worked. We'll never know now because you didn't do it that way, but its an interesting thought.
Other thought is that we may not need a perfect clean like Tom did. Maybe softening the carbon is sufficient. Once the vanes move, then they shouldn't stick again if put through their full range often.
Unsticking the vanes is both necessary and sufficient to restore your boost. Extra cleaning could delay a future guck up if don't drive it hard and exercise the turbo as often.
And be careful not to get any of it in your eyes.Jettascuba said:BTW, someone stated in this thread on the dangers of phosphoric acid... 1) it is an active ingredient of Coke (2) your skin excrete it (3) I treat and chemical clean diving regulators and cylinders with it. It is one of the less harmful acids - won't eat or change your skin to soap (lye will!!!) your skin on contact. Okay, won't hurt to be careful.