rock4xfab
Well-known member
What causes the rpm to spike like you put the gas pedal to wide open throttle. I had to shut the car down let sit restart and limp it home.. all this after the new turbo was installed
run away wot
- Thread starter rock4xfab
- Start date
snakeye
Veteran Member
What happened to the old one? If it failed and leaked oil into the intercooler, that needed to be cleaned out. If you don't clean that out, the oil will make its way up the intake and you know the rest...
Chris
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jan 27, 2000
- Location
- Bloomfield Hills, Michigan, USA
To enlarge on what snakeye just said, runaways happen when an uncontrolled amount of fuel (motor oil can be a fuel) becomes available to the engine. This usually happens when the turbocharger leaks motor oil into the intake air (hopefully not with the new turbocharger) and/or when there's a pool of motor oil sitting somewhere in the system, waiting to be ingested.
rock4xfab
Well-known member
The old turbo failed.. I replaced everthing inercooler included. New turbo, inercooler gasket kit, return oil line, supply oil line, oil and filter change, thermostat, MAF, intake cleaning. All went smooth I started it last night in the garage when I got done light smoke I contributed to the residue in exhaust. It idled fine it got to 190 deg I pulled out and by the time I reached the end of my shop driveway 90 ft or so I could see more smoke... this was about 900pm so it ws dark. I pulled out on the road started to accelerate when it happened. I did a uey and pulled right back in the drive now where it ran away I shut it down, I waited then restarted it limped it to the shop door. I got out and looked behind me it looked like it dumpped all 5 qrts out the tail pipe.
Chris
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jan 27, 2000
- Location
- Bloomfield Hills, Michigan, USA
So, maybe the new turbo's bad. Check the intercooler, see if it's full of oil.
rock4xfab
Well-known member
I pulled the tube at the intake which was bone dry before I started and it was oil filmed... im sure the brand new intercooler is full also. And I am guessing the new turbo was **** from the get go. This is starting to get expensive and I am fricking tired cleaning diesel oil coated crap.
snakeye
Veteran Member
This new turbo, where did you get it from?
Please don't say prothe... please don't say prothe... please don't s.....
Please don't say prothe... please don't say prothe... please don't s.....
vwdieseling
Veteran Member
At least if it was Proth the problem would be solved. I'm not being a smart ass. That fu^^*% torn up more TDI's. Did you prime it after install, by filling it with oil. If you started it dry it can cause the bearings to go out on initial start up and spool. I understand when hours of work turn into an even more expensive mess. I've had a few myself. Priming is important and lubricates the turbo bearings on initial start up until oil is delivered through the oil feed line. Usually a funnel and about a little less than a quarter of a quart poured into the oil feed line inlet going into the turbo.
vwdieseling
Veteran Member
The turbo should have oil in it, they need primed after new install. The compressor vane shaft bearings need lubricated on start up. It takes time for the oil feed line to deliver oil to the shaft bearings. Maybe the return line was damaged and there was blockage preventing flow. You didn't do a home rebuild on it I hope. Those e-bay kits are made in China, and a turbo needs balanced after the compressor bearings are replaced. The compressor is spun at high speed and any balance variations are measured and the vanes are trimmed or clipped to remove the imbalances until the compressor's orbit is completely concentric. This prevents premature bearing failure. Spending that 800.00 to ID Parts is worth it.
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rock4xfab
Well-known member
The turbo was filled with oil before I installed it. I also primed it. No I did not get it from (proth) it is a US mfg XS turbo charger out Ohio. The return lines and feed line are brand new.The return is an OEM replacment, the supply line is a SS flex with-AN #3 fitting and 12 mm banjo. The turbo is NOT CHINEASE. The engine was turned over and pressure built up before I started the motor.
1854sailor
Resident Curmudgeon
jptbay
Veteran Member
Sounds like you did everything right.
Before you do anymore, you should now check compression to rule out bent rods. Very common after ingesting oil and running away. If you don't, you risk a rod failing months down the road and punching a hole through the block.
Hate to say it but, I would suspect your reman turbo. There is a reason they are not highly recommended on this site. Get your money back, buy a new turbo from a trusted vendor, drain your intercooler and try again.
Before you do anymore, you should now check compression to rule out bent rods. Very common after ingesting oil and running away. If you don't, you risk a rod failing months down the road and punching a hole through the block.
Hate to say it but, I would suspect your reman turbo. There is a reason they are not highly recommended on this site. Get your money back, buy a new turbo from a trusted vendor, drain your intercooler and try again.
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rock4xfab
Well-known member
I built pressure up before I started. Cycled the key so oil pump could build pressure..New or rebuilt?
What?
1854sailor
Resident Curmudgeon
rock4xfab
Well-known member
I am not sure how a compression test rules out anything with rods,valves maybe but rods... that does not make any sence. As for the turbo, i keep hearing about remans no good and bearings. Their are no bearings just a bronze bushing that the turbine floats in thin layer of oil...I am going to go back through it make sure I did nothing to cause this. But if you saw my original thread I had questions about the turbo that the company told me was normal, and im not so sure now.
jptbay
Veteran Member
If your rods are not straight, your compression is lowered because the piston does not reach true top dead center. ie lower deck height.
It does not take much oil ingested to bend a rod. There is not much volume available at top dead center on compression stroke.
If a compression test shows low cylinders, its time to pull the head and measure piston heights.
For future reference: The best way to pre-lube a new installed turbo is to disconnect the wiring harness to the injection pump so the engine will not start. Then turn the engine over with the starter 30 seconds or so. Re-connect harness to I.P., clear fault code with VCDS.
It does not take much oil ingested to bend a rod. There is not much volume available at top dead center on compression stroke.
If a compression test shows low cylinders, its time to pull the head and measure piston heights.
For future reference: The best way to pre-lube a new installed turbo is to disconnect the wiring harness to the injection pump so the engine will not start. Then turn the engine over with the starter 30 seconds or so. Re-connect harness to I.P., clear fault code with VCDS.
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vwdieseling
Veteran Member
Not being a smartass. Sounds like the turbo was bad. I'm wondering about the vendor. My neighbor had a runaway after he did a manifold cleaning. I did mine once and did the VCDS off road setting. Haven't touched it since. If the turbo failed it was oil flowing around the compressor shaft bearings and into the IC pipe. My neighbors 1.9 was trashed, bent rods and a hole in a piston after his runaway. Oil pump is mechanical not a pressure start diesel. Good luck, I hope. I defiantly be calling the vendor. They will ask about how it was installed. I see they sell remans. They seem rather cheap.
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Vince Waldon
Top Post Dawg
Did you "shut it down" by turning off the key, or stalling it with the clutch?
If it turned off with the key it was NOT a turbo-induced runaway.
If it turned off with the key it was NOT a turbo-induced runaway.
vwdieseling
Veteran Member
I'd call vendor for sure. But Vince is right if you could shut it off with the key you didn't have a complete runaway.
fierodough
Veteran Member
if the anti-shudder did it's job, it would of starved the engine of air.Did you "shut it down" by turning off the key, or stalling it with the clutch?
If it turned off with the key it was NOT a turbo-induced runaway.
rock4xfab
Well-known member
When I first turned the key off it kept running... I turned it back on then off and it shut down.....I just got everything back off the car. Intake has a light coating of oil..turbo does not appear to have anymore play but the exhaust side is burnt black build up... I will be calling the vendor tomorrow when they open btw its an automatic not a stick
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blueatlantic
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Apr 4, 2012
- Location
- Southeast North Carolina
- TDI
- 03 Jetta Wagon(gone) 06 Jetta (gone) 09 JSW(gone) 03 Jetta (died) 03 Jetta Wagon 2012 JSW
It sounds like a turbo oil bypass issue to me. I've been following your threads and hate to see all the trouble you've been having. I've seen runaway "lite" like you're talking about. Car revving up, oil coming out the tailpipe like crazy, crazy smoke, but not a true runaway and blow up. I also remember the little tiny metal sounds of pieces of the turbo breaking off and going to the intercooler. No fun.
Vince Waldon
Top Post Dawg
vwdieseling
Veteran Member
Not so, my neighbors roared through about 4 quarts of oil. His was on the street a half block from his house. He put it in neutral and turned the key off. Yes he was in second gear and couldn't stall it. Somebody called the fire department. Whitbred put in his new used engine, out of a Beetle TDI. The anti-shudder valve is useless. I know their supposed to prevent runaway, but they don't.
vwdieseling
Veteran Member
I would call them. I'm from Ohio, but I checked out their site. Their cheap, bad sign there. Sell remans bad sign. Garret doesn't have a reman kit for the VNTs do to imbalance problems with the compressors and liability issues. The machine to balance turbos is very expensive. I see what you could get back from them. I'm not being b&^tch, but a turbo shouldn't be a place to start saving money. Good vendor, ID parts.
1854sailor
Resident Curmudgeon
vwdieseling
Veteran Member
My turbo has over 300,000 on it. I replaced actuator last year. But mine could be swapped. I'm in the process of restoring an 84 Rabbit. Just put a new engine in it. I'm strapped at this point.
That yellow 1.6 IDI solid lifter is gone. Got a 1.6 IDI hydraulic lifter.
That yellow 1.6 IDI solid lifter is gone. Got a 1.6 IDI hydraulic lifter.
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vwdieseling
Veteran Member
About the correct price for a new one. The vendors on this site are safe. I'm from Ohio and I believe the one in this thread was purchased from a place in Saint Lawrence, Ohio. I saw their web site, just as cheap as Proth.
I'd be calling them and getting some money back.
1854sailor
Resident Curmudgeon
Just pointing out another great vendor who supports this website. The Torque Junkie is TdiRacing on these forums.
vwdieseling
Veteran Member
The one in question is from here.
Rebuilt Turbochargers, Cartridges & Components | XS Boost ...
North Lawrence, Ohio. I never heard of them until now. The owners got a great story. Apparently he needs it cause he don't know what he's doing. I'd be pissed.
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