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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW Passat Family (NMS and B7) TDIs (2012+)

VW Passat Family (NMS and B7) TDIs (2012+) Discussion area for the 2012+ Passat TDI (North American and rest of world versions versions). The North American model was previously codenamed NMS (New Midsize Sedan) and the version the rest of the world gets is sometimes referred to as B7.

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Old October 15th, 2019, 19:57   #1
Whitfield
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Central VA
Default 2012 Passat TDI (Hit Right Front)

2012 Passat TDI 6-Spd DSG 85K Engine & Trans tuned by Kerma / Right Front tuned by Toyota 4-Runner
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History:
Right front slow speed into the left rear of a Toyota 4Runner (Glass and air bags are good). Previous owner replaced the broken tie road + cut / removed enough pieces to make it drive-able. I bought it & drove it 200 miles home with no issues.
50 mpg with the AC on
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I bought a USED passenger door, passenger fender, hood, and inner fender rail + apron. Test fit ONLY ~ (No right front upper fender rail YET)
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Last edited by Whitfield; October 15th, 2019 at 20:46.
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Old October 15th, 2019, 19:58   #2
Whitfield
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Location: Central VA
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Built my own Tram gauge to measure point to point (following body shop repair tech doc dimensions) Also bought a Bosch Laser Cross level. I can set the laser cross level up on a tripod and level the car. From there I can establish height dimensions of the upper rail & core support.
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Prepping the right front for fender rail & apron installation
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I was able to remove the (4) condenser bolts and wiggle the core support out with not having to evacuate the AC system.
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Last edited by Whitfield; October 15th, 2019 at 21:36.
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Old October 16th, 2019, 05:15   #3
06bluebeetletdi
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Nice! It looks much better with your hard work.
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Old October 18th, 2019, 15:05   #4
Whitfield
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Drilling out spot welds to slice and dice ~ gotta make the pieces fit the puzzle.



Big props to the Blair premium spot weld cutter. This is an awesome tool.



Upper fender rail outer alignment. Again this is just a test fit with a few sheet metal screws to attach panels + test height & gaps.



Inner apron sheetmetal


Last edited by Whitfield; October 18th, 2019 at 15:21.
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Old October 18th, 2019, 15:10   #5
Whitfield
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Passenger's bumper support frame horn 98% level just a tad high. Working with jack stands and wooden shims had its limits.



Driver's bumper support frame horn.





Drivers inner rail (With Laser)




Passenger side inner rail (With Laser)




Test fit up:



I am satisfied with the inner alignment, though the hood needs some adjustment to clean up the gaps.


Last edited by Whitfield; October 18th, 2019 at 15:15.
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Old October 18th, 2019, 15:19   #6
Whitfield
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Next step ~ Pull it apart again and prep all surfaces for panel bond. There will be 50+ sport welds along with panel bond and seam sealer. Radiator support, Headlight, Fog light, and a few other pieces have arrived.
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Old October 19th, 2019, 06:04   #7
thundershorts
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Reminds me of days using my Celette bench. I still use a DAVID white cross laser for all sorts of things. You are doing a very nice job. I liked doing this job final assembly with the panels already painted as it avoids having upholstery and plastics saturated with solvents from the paint process, in other words, less stink.
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Old October 19th, 2019, 08:38   #8
Whitfield
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Thanks Thundershorts. Cellette bench ~ Wow! That is an amazing tool. I have yet to get a chance to play with a full on frame machine. I am an ex auto tech (I got out in 97) but minimal experience with crash damage repair. I enjoy the fab and fit but the body / paint part still intimidates me (I am aiming to sub that part out). I'm tempted to try and get the just panels painted but very concerned for getting the correct color match.
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I am trying to go back with all OEM VW parts. Thus far my only non OEM parts are my new used black fender & core support. The salvage Passat was ultra clean I didn't even consider checking for aftermarket parts. Their policy was you inspect / prepay and then they pull (non refundable). My mistake, but it is a clean fender. Hoping the core support fitment is well enough to necessary adjustments with in limits. My used bumper arrives from Alabama on Tuesday. It is OEM but a damage take off. It has a class 3 hitch impression and a few scrapes but otherwise looks salvageable. The lower center grill that was sold with it would cost as much from VW as I'm paying for the package deal shipped. I'm down to needing a passenger fog light + reflector and bezel and a front (passenger side) motor mount. The motor mount broke the apron bracket tab off of he aluminium casting. The list is getting shorter!

Thanks,
Michael

Last edited by Whitfield; October 19th, 2019 at 08:58.
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Old October 19th, 2019, 08:39   #9
Whitfield
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Cant wait to get out of my Civic and into the Passat TDI.

My 2006 Civic EX @ 300k miles randomly cracked the engine block last Wednesday.

Research says 1.8L Honda 06-09 has a factory metallurgy & casting defect.
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Old October 20th, 2019, 06:57   #10
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Color matching today is not much of a problem, nuances such a pressure can possibly affect how metalic refracts. For a painter, its a pleasure to paint panels separately, no worry of dirt popping out nowhere. Find a shop with a heated downdraft booth and look at the results they produce on separate components when they first come out of the booth. No color sanding should be needed, maybe a tiny dust nib or so.
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Old October 21st, 2019, 18:50   #11
Whitfield
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More panel gap alignment. It is the little things that make the difference between good & great!

The inner fender needed to come in slightly at the front to make the marks on center & give adequate adjustment at grille & headlights. Black fender lower at front door needed adjustment. The parts puller at the salvage yard bent up the lower tab on the black fender when removing it. This was throwing off the upper body line (fender to door alignment). Also verifying that the hood grille & headlights play nice with the new CAPA certified core support.
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The driver's side front fender upper wing between the hood and windshield was kicked by the hood in the crash. No visible damage but clear misalignment / it looks easily adjustable. This car has so much room to move & adjust panels.

CAPA was not as bad of a fit as I was expecting. The only glaring flaw I found was that the hood latch cup was too narrow for the latch by 1/8" or better. I believe the exterior washer/spacer on the front side of the hood latch cup was crimped in place reverse with the thick side in towards the hood latch. Otherwise not a bad fit for non-OEM.

Panel Bond & gun is on the way along with a few $$$ of other bodywork supplies.

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Last edited by Whitfield; October 21st, 2019 at 19:34.
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Old October 22nd, 2019, 06:47   #12
thundershorts
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Looking good, when you do final painted panel assembly, I find using rubber electrical tape on corners/ edges to avoid chipping. You will have avoided saturating the car with paint solvents from the heated booth bake process.
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Old October 27th, 2019, 21:11   #13
Whitfield
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Spot welds and panel bond ~ Not sure how well the two play together. I guess we will find out more tomorrow.


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<< Below>> My tape lines to catch the excess panel bond may have been a little too tight here. I should have left a little more panel bond overlap along the edge.
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. This one below is pictured after I had spent some time grinding my welds. Even covering the car with cardboard and towels was not enough to keep the flying metal dust out. The seam for the inner apron just above the frame rail at the motor mount seems to have sealed up well. Panel bond will definatly make for a cleaner repair.
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Last edited by Whitfield; October 27th, 2019 at 21:14.
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Old October 28th, 2019, 06:00   #14
thundershorts
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The white hot grinding particles will actually imbed themselves in paint and I think even glass.
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Old October 28th, 2019, 12:04   #15
Whitfield
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Yes ~ Picking metal shavings out of the windshield with a razor blade last night

I missed covering one SMALL section where I wrapped the cardboard around the hood hinge sparks got under the cardboard and showered the glass with a palm sized spot below the wiper.

I knew the dangers and tried to run the grinder flare to the front away from the glass and good paint (even with it covered up). I ruined a $500 4wd off-road project car 10 years ago embedding metal shavings into the fresh white paint.

The rusty metal shavings look is not very becoming.
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