Some rotational noise

When I turn my wheel, even slightly, there will be a noise that sounds kinda like room room room coming from what I think is the front. I've already had the car aligned a few months back, and it's still there. There is a slight bubble that the tech that aligned my car pointed out to me in the BACK left tire, but I don't think it's that. I've looked into my power steering fluid container and it's full. What it could be with the drivetrain or suspension? Thanks.

Which way does it make a noise.....to the left or the right?
Any noise while going straight?
Could be a wheel bearing.....could be a drive shaft.
Need some more info.

Also check the accessory belt.

Doesn’t make any noise while going straight, but when I move the wheel even slightly to the left or right it makes that noise. So yes it’s both sides.

Have you checked the fluid level in the power steering reservoir?
May be the power steering pump.
Remove the accessory belt and do a short drive, does it still make noise?
Yes your alt light will be on but for test purposes it will be fine and the power steering will be harder but doable

Remove the accessory belt?! What else other than the alternator not be turning?? I’ve already checked PS fluid and it’s at a normal level.

Power steering pump.

Another tidbit: the sound changes with higher speeds, and is loudest around 45 mph. Also I’ve noticed that as I go more right or left, the noise is stronger too. Still might be power steering?

jlav0330 said:

Remove the accessory belt?! What else other than the alternator not be turning?? I’ve already checked PS fluid and it’s at a normal level.

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Alternator pulley, AC pulley, bad tensioner, roller or worn out belt. One way to rule that stuff out is to remove the belt and take a short drive (careful). See if you can simulate in the driveway, will make it much easier to pinpoint.

Jack the front end up, check the front wheels for play. Grab at 9 and 3 pm and rock back and forth (push and pull). Then spin and check again. Then do it again at 12 and 6.

A bad wheel bearing will look something like this.

https://youtu.be/-vRR2eMm9zA

Mike_04GolfTDI said:

A bad wheel bearing will look something like this.

https://youtu.be/-vRR2eMm9zA

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That's REALLY bad.

The amount of play at the edge of a rim as measured by a dial indicator per the FSM usually. There's not much allowed normally... Under .010. not sure what VW specifies without checking my manual.

I've also had a bad wheel bearing that was more or less frozen. In which case you won't feel play, but you'll hear the groan

KrashDH said:

Jack the front end up, check the front wheels for play. Grab at 9 and 3 pm and rock back and forth (push and pull). Then spin and check again. Then do it again at 12 and 6.

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Is this to check the bearings?

Yes and to check your tie rods and ball joints too.
If you have rocking it’s gonna be one of those three, the video is a very bad wheel bearing.

So a little update, I haven't done any of that checking that you all have suggested (check bearings, remove serpentine)... been lazy about it. But something that I noticed yesterday, when I turned the wheel when stopped, the sound in question manifests itself, but much fainter. Might be the PS pump after all. Again, the fluid container's full. Should I just drain and refill it with new fluid just for the heck of it. Note: I did buy this car at the beginning of the year, previous owner never said he flushed it.

its a wheel bearing going

Really don’t think it’s a wheel bearing. A wheel bearing sounds like a helicopter taking off and is more of a chopping sound. This is more of a room room room sound. Like I said, would it be worth it to change out the PS fluid and see if it makes a difference?

Please do as I previously suggested and remove the belt and see if the noise stops.
If it does then start to narrow down whether is a stationary pulley, an alt pulley an a/c clutch or the power steering pump.......
I’m leaning towards the pump.

jlav0330 said:

So a little update, I haven't done any of that checking that you all have suggested (check bearings, remove serpentine)... been lazy about it. But something that I noticed yesterday, when I turned the wheel when stopped, the sound in question manifests itself, but much fainter. Might be the PS pump after all. Again, the fluid container's full. Should I just drain and refill it with new fluid just for the heck of it. Note: I did buy this car at the beginning of the year, previous owner never said he flushed it.

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For one, it's not good to turn the wheel on the ground while you're not moving. It's really hard on ALL of thee front end components. As well, if you do that, your PS system is going to be working VERY hard, internal pressures are increasing and yes, it's going to whine more. It's telling you not to do that.

jlav0330 said:

Really don’t think it’s a wheel bearing. A wheel bearing sounds like a helicopter taking off and is more of a chopping sound. This is more of a room room room sound. Like I said, would it be worth it to change out the PS fluid and see if it makes a difference?

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Failing wheel bearings can have multiple noises, symptoms, or even no noises at all, which is why you should do the checks anyway. The most common though is the whirring with rotational RPM while moving when loading one side or the other (ie in a turn). usually this is due to play in the wheel bearing. You're unlikely to hear anything with a bad wheel bearing if you try to turn the wheel while stopped...except maybe a "click" or pop. But then again that could potentially be other front end component issues.

Bearings can also fail by basically seizing too (NO play) where you may or may not hear faint grinding. Usually this will happen with improper installation where you crush the bearing housing and it's putting too much load on bearings. Eventually though it may wear away metal and develop play.

Seems to me it's not a failing wheel bearing, although the checks are easy to do anyway. 2 pumps of the jack under the pinch weld and wheels off the ground. Go for it, but I'm guessing it's something else in your PS system (pulley bearings, pump, etc)

Welp, did the no serpentine belt run, and it’s not the PS pump. Noise is still there. And before I removed serpentine belt, I grabbed each front wheel by its opposite spokes (I have a GLS so it’s those rims), and moved the wheel to try and find some play. None whatsoever.

A few more things to note, before I was done with the no serpentine belt run, I found a cul de sac and turned it around in circles, making sure to go clockwise then counterclockwise. No CV joint noise, which would manifest itself as some clicking or popping. Last thing I should note, there’s no vibration or anything when going at freeway speeds, and no shaking when I brake. What else can it be everybody? Could it maybe just be… the tires I have?

So just to clarify, noise is not there when you're not moving and engine is running with the serpentine belt installed? But noise comes up when you're also not moving and you turn the wheel either direction? Makes me think strut tower bearing.

Yes, no noise when completely stationary and serpentine belt installed. So this strut tower bearing, does that get replaced when you change out the struts themselves? Cause mine are worn and will be changing those soon.

jlav0330 said:

Yes, no noise when completely stationary and serpentine belt installed. So this strut tower bearing, does that get replaced when you change out the struts themselves? Cause mine are worn and will be changing those soon.

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It's easier to replace when the strut it out. Always a good idea to change them. I just ended up getting a suspension refresh kit from IDparts, had all the bearings/bushings to do the job. Also went with koni red actives, but which strut to go with is a whole another discussion.

Nero Morg said:

but which strut to go with is a whole another discussion.

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Wars have been fought over less. I am not finding this suspension refresh kit that comes with bearings on IDParts, do you happen to remember the P/N?

They don't sell a literal entire suspension refresh kit, I ordered a pair of these for building the front struts. Includes the bearing.
https://www.idparts.com/strut-assembly-p-5453.html

Or this? https://www.idparts.com/front-strut-mount-1j0498249g-p-371.html

You could use that, I ended up getting the other one because all my parts were rotted out.

Another update, I put my car's front wheels back up on the stands just to be sure. Again, no real play that I can feel when I put my hands on 9 and 3, then 12 and 6 and shake. I then did the test where you spin the wheel and feel for vibrations in the spring. Couldn't really get the wheel spinning fast or long enough to feel any vibration. So I went ahead and did something that's somewhat dangerous and you have to take precaution before doing: I turned on my car and put it into gear to reproduce the noise.

I started off by shifting it into 1st, and it was only idling at around 5mph (standard for 1st). I couldn't really hear anything. So I then had the idea to shift it into a higher gear, to try and get it to a higher speed. So I went and shifted it into 3rd, and I couldn't really hear it too much, but I could definitely feel it. Going back outside the car, I could hear it slightly if I tried to listen hard, but what I saw with my left wheel made me think I figured out the issue. When having it in 4th (the wheels are going around 20mph), I could see that my left wheel had a slight wobble to it. It wasn't egregious, but it was there if you looked for it. Comparing it to the right, it was smooth as can be, no wobble with that one. So, those of you that guessed it might be a wheel bearing, I think you're right? I was suspecting this more as soon as I crossed off power steering from the potential list. Also, the noise is there, but definitely gets worse as I turn (like I said before), and does feel worse and get louder when I turn to the right, or so it seems to get louder. So, safe to assume I should be ordering a new wheel bearing and hub?

Wheel bearings are easy enough to do, you don't have to replace the hub, but it certainly makes it easier. If you have a dremel you can get the race piece off the hub without damaging it, and save some $$$.

Welp, I went to a DIY shop and got my car on a lift, took off wheel, took off caliper, and... it was not the bearing. It couldn't have been, because there was absolutely no play when I moved it around. So it's either the rotor that's warped, or maybe my tire is unbalanced, or maybe my wheel is bent. Back at square one with this one.