Front left brake is sqealing or dragging

Abacus

That helpful B4 guy
Joined
Nov 10, 2007
Location
Relocated from Maine to Dewey, AZ
TDI
Only the B4V left
Return it. I am not seeing how that could cause the problem. A hose leaks or doesn't and if it was clogged by some weird chance, you wouldn't even have braking, and thus no drag.
Like Mike_04GolfTDI, I have had the inner lining on brake lines separate and have it act as a check valve. I have experienced it firsthand.

And like UhOh said, do not use anti-seize on the brakes, it has no place there and here is why: it migrates and dries. I have had to literally drill out caliper sliders that previous 'mechanics' used anti-seize on as a lubricant, of which it was not designed. It was designed to keep parts from rusting together, not to lubricate. I've seen this many times.

The real brake grease is cheap and lasts a long time. I do brakes all the time on all manner of vehicles and have yet to go through a tube in 5 years.

As to the brake pad lubricant, this is what I use:

CRC Disc Brake Quiet


Put it anywhere the pad contacts the carrier or piston. It never fully hardens so it creates a vibration barrier between the pieces. Sometimes the brake pads will have an anti-vibration pad already installed and sometimes you install the pad yourself. I still use this when necessary since it can't hurt. Just don't overdo it, it doesn't take much.

A brake pad is similar to running your finger over the top of a crystal glass, where it makes the resonance sound. If you put something on your finger, which creates a barrier, the crystal will no longer sing. This does just that so the pads will no longer sing. The brake pad shims do the same thing but often are missing or no longer fit. When they do 'fit', they don't fit like they should and thus don't work properly. I have found many of today's pads are covered with a coating so they don't slide properly and require grinding the coating off the ends so they will.

To reduce the pad squeal you have now, use the brake pad lubricant, lube the sliders (not too much, don't pack the grease in, just a light coating), and swap the pads side to side if they're worn.

I would not replace the ABS unit unless it's a last resort. A simple Vag-Com scan should tell you if it's working. A brake purge should be performed before then to determine flow as well. It will show you a restriction in the system if it exists.
Motive Power Bleeders for these cars are cheap and well worth the money.

Aftermarket calipers are hit or miss but it's not easy to find OEM non-rebuilt ones anymore. If they are, look at the country of manufacture, which is probably China. I'd rather have a rebuilt in Mexico than a made in China anything because at least the rebuilt will be with decent parts.

timeline said:
I have one that has been hanging up frozen and locks up in the AM. All I have to do though is pull hard on the EM brake and it releases immediately.
This is probably your parking brake cable and not the caliper, and it's either ice or rust. It's common since they build up water inside from intrusion or condensation. I filled mine with pure G12 to combat this, so far no problems and it's been years over many vehicles. I got the idea from someone else on here, can't remember who now. G12/13 is designed to combat corrosion and will only dilute slightly when it contacts water. I just drip it down the cable until it comes out, but I have pressurized it and vacuumed it through as well. It's cheap and easy insurance.
 
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jokila

Vendor
Joined
Dec 3, 2004
Location
Houston, Texas
TDI
2003 Jetta GLS, Manual
Well that's a new one for me.

Maybe that's why VW insists on the maintenance schedule to flush brake fluid every 2 years to keep the water from rusting the components on the inside. How many people do it that frequently who have sticking brake problems?
 

Mongler98

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 23, 2011
Location
COLORADO (SE of Denver)
TDI
98 Jetta TDI AHU 1.9L (944 TDI swap in progress) I moved so now i got nothing but an AHU in a garage on a pallet.
its actually standard to change fluid every 2 years. In fact it only takes 5% moisture content to make the brake fluids boiling point cut in half.
 

Abacus

That helpful B4 guy
Joined
Nov 10, 2007
Location
Relocated from Maine to Dewey, AZ
TDI
Only the B4V left
I know of no one who actually does it, including me. I've had to replace a number of failed master cylinders as a result of sediment buildup. I've vacuumed out a number of them to extend their lifespan but before last year I never had a Motive Power Bleeder. Now bleeding the brakes is so easy it's almost fun....until I realize I'm working on a B4/A3 (usually) that has frozen bleeders, bad calipers, etc. Then the smile goes away again as I address those issues.

But, recently I've done 3 cars with complete brake changes, to include all the calipers and lines, and those people want to keep them like new, so they'll be back regularly for flushes. All are glad they spent the extra and had it done since their cars now stop like new, which is to say, marginal but far better than they had before.
 

jokila

Vendor
Joined
Dec 3, 2004
Location
Houston, Texas
TDI
2003 Jetta GLS, Manual
I've done it only once. I went with a blue color, now I will bleed them with the standard color brake fluid.
 

Mongler98

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 23, 2011
Location
COLORADO (SE of Denver)
TDI
98 Jetta TDI AHU 1.9L (944 TDI swap in progress) I moved so now i got nothing but an AHU in a garage on a pallet.
cant get the blue anymore, it was banned by the FDA
 

jokila

Vendor
Joined
Dec 3, 2004
Location
Houston, Texas
TDI
2003 Jetta GLS, Manual
cant get the blue anymore, it was banned by the FDA
Why would the Food and Drug Administration care about the color? It's not like we are going to eat it.

Here is what I found:
================

NOTICE: Effective immediately, and until further notice, all distribution of ATE Super Blue Racing DOT 4 Brake Fluid will end in the United States due to non compliance with applicable Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard for brake fluid. The federal standard requires motor vehicle brake fluid to be colorless or amber in color.

The specific color requirement for brake fluid in the standard is to permit easy differentiation of brake fluids from other types of motor vehicle fluids before they are placed in the vehicle. If an incompatible fluid is put into a motor vehicle system, it could lead to damage or failure of that system.

=======================================

I am going to assume the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration would have made the rule, not the food agency.
 
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Mongler98

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 23, 2011
Location
COLORADO (SE of Denver)
TDI
98 Jetta TDI AHU 1.9L (944 TDI swap in progress) I moved so now i got nothing but an AHU in a garage on a pallet.
I thought it was due to idiots drinking it thinking it was blue coolaid, JK
MVA or whatever*
 

BleachedBora

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
Oct 16, 2003
Location
Gresham, Oregon
TDI
'81 DMC-12, '15 GL350 CDI 275 hp/448 tq - '81 Caddy CJAA, '05 E320 CDI 250hp/450 tq, '23 ID4 AWD Pro S Plus
I keep toying with importing super blue for offroad use only. Maybe someday...

FWIW I just got in a couple pallets of brand new factory original Mk4 front calipers (already have rears). Need to get them up on the site...
 

timeline

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 20, 2006
Location
Fort Atkinson, WI
TDI
2002 Jetta waggon TDI
We put in a 2002 ABS unit and its throwing a code saying no traction control info. My waggon is a 2002 tdi. Help!
 
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