No locking cap. I will take a line loose, spin it around with the injector and crank it.
Do you guys want me to do another update video with everything done and shown up to date?
I think a list of accomplishments would be nice so we can see a complete list of things done and the result. A video could help as hearing and seeing what's going on.
I am getting a lot of smoke while cranking now. I think in the video I said after it was shot I redid the timing and it was off a few degrees. Its right on the money and belching smoke as I am cranking. Taking off the cat really helped with cranking speed, it was pretty blocked up, but still no start.
How do you mean off a few degrees? cam to crank, or IP?
At this point if the IP timing is out it could be injecting too soon, or late, for combustion to happen. Is it at all possible that the pump is 180 out?
Definitely think you should do the poor mans pop test to see what's happening with the injection events.
I keep going back to electrical input to the pump, you said there's battery voltage to the shut off solenoid. What is the voltage, I don't like to assume anything and battery voltage can cause a no start.
Check the wiring to the cam and crank sensors, make sure there's not to much resistance, RPM would be decreased at the dash if there was impedance across that wire.
Intermittent issues with the crank sensor can cause crazy issues as well, the failing sensor can plausibly cause increased crank time until it just goes kaput.
PROBLEM SOLVED - Failing to find out if there was any way to test for a good crankcase speed sensor, sometimes called a crankcase position sensor, I purchased a new one and my car now starts again. I also now have a test to offer to others.
Symptoms: Go to start the car and it sputters for maybe a second and then further cranking yields nothing. After a few more cranking tries and letting it rest for a few minutes, it would again sputter as if wanting to start for maybe a second and then further cranking yields no start.
Problem: The crankcase speed (or position) sensor has failed and needs to be replaced. The computer needs to know the speed of the engine for proper injection timing. Reportedly, the engine will not be allowed to start if the engine is not spinning at at least 300 rpm. A sensor failure is not part of the ECU programming; so, no error code is generated. Would be nice if the computer could say; "Gee, you have the starter running for three seconds yet I see zero rpm, maybe the sensor is broken - here's a precautionary error code."
Testing: There are many failures which may give the same result and it is assumed these are also being considered. The " 038907319 A mod " now replaced with "F mod" crank sensor has three pins which feed into the ECU. Pin 1 to 102, 2 to 110, and 3 to 86 on my 2001 Golf 1.9 TDI ALH Mk4 manual car. These match the schematic in my Hayes book.
Pin #1 and Pin #2 show continuity with a VOM tester; ie. they are like a continuous wire. On the broken one, there was no continuity indicated a broken wire, connector, or internal failure. Pins #1 and #2 are the two sides of a sensor coil while #3 is a shield ground There are three harness plugs in a holder between the IP and the engine block; a black IP plug, a sensor gray plug, and a black plug to the #3 injector (needle lift sensor). Simply unplug the middle one (gray) and test for continuity of the lower two pins.
The crankcase speed sensor is located underneath the harness plug holder mentioned above. It is held in place on my Golf by yet another anti-owner-repair bolt; this one requires a 12-point 9mm box-end wrench; an equivalent socket is best.
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=443358
I realize the thread above is an ALH, however, there's not really that much difference in the way they work.
When you look in Vagcom at engine speed; this is the sensor that tells the ECU that piece of information. When you are at idle speed; this input (engine speed) is what the ECU will adjust the fuel injection to maintain the desired idle RPM. If this signal isn't there (or if it faulters intermittently like mine did); the car just turns off as if you did it with the key. I'm not so sure if this sensor on the BEW engines reports anything having to do with crankshaft position. The camshaft has a position sensor & the setup for knowing camshaft position is quite different.
its not the sensor that goes bad , its the wire insulation breaking down inside the plug ...or thats what was found on mine...would start and run , wiggle connector and engine would die...replaced sensor all good,
disassembly of old sensor showed wiring chaffed INSIDE the connector where no one could possible see that any problem existed...fwiw
In order to run this down, you need to leave no stone un-turned. Start where the ECU does and look at everything it does before starting is allowed, then look at what is supposed to happen first. Like I said earlier, even if you don't think it's bad rule it out. Maybe you have another crank sensor from another vehicle that you can swap?
Price isn't that bad either
https://www.idparts.com/crankshaft-position-sensor-g28-a4-alh-early-p-3300.html
I know you tested it with a DMM, however, all the reading I have done about the crank sensor says that it and all the wiring to and from it needs to be eliminated from the issue equation.