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Old September 29th, 2019, 17:06   #1
Mongler98
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Default Ripping and stand up a Jetta, (any car)

In a nut shell, what is everyone's 2 cents on the cheapest and safest way to put a car up on blocks high enough to scoot under to take things off but not to tall to still be able to pull the engine and trans from the top. Mk3 Jetta here.
As some may know, she is getting stripped and scrapped and parted out.
I'm thinking 8x masonry block 2 on each corner staked on to each other with a few bits of 2x4 wood to keep her more stable than on the stone for 17.5" total hight front he floor to the rocker panels.
Any suggestions. I dont want to be pulling on her and have it come down. Also will need to have a flat bed haul it away in a while after she is stripped.
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Old September 29th, 2019, 18:47   #2
miningman
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One of my colleagues, who should have known a lot better, managed to kill himself while under his vehicle with sub standard supports.No way would I trust stacked masonary blocks with some 2x4s. The mere fact that you ask the question how to do this shows you have zero knowledge of structural engineering or stability as related to anything with a raised centre of gravity.

Any TDIers who chose to make suggestions are putting themselves at risk of a lawsuit initiated by your widow
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Old September 29th, 2019, 19:05   #3
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Wow. Ok. So have you been to a junk yard. They stack them up on rusty wheels. Instead of putting some useful input, you just spew filth and judgment. Thanks. NOT.
many have died from a car falling of a lift, yet we still do it. Mansonry block can handle 10x the divided weight of the car, wood would be used as a padding to distribute the weight. I would of course have my Jack stands in place but there not high enough to do it on it's own and I would need to move them around as I work. I downgraded my shop to a smaller garage with no lift.
I'm well aware of the risks and would not put myself in a position of injury or death. The suspention is coming off this next week as it's being sold, with the brakes and wheels.

And your right, I'm not an engineer, are you?
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Old September 29th, 2019, 20:05   #4
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Yes , actually I am an engineer ( retired ) so with over 40 years heavy industrial experience , if you want to discuss the compressive or tensile strength of concrete blocks feel free to initiate another query.

And yes I have time in scrap yards and am very familiar with welded wheels as supports. But I'm guessing you dont have welding gear , otherwise you would have already obtained eight scrap wheels
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Old September 29th, 2019, 20:20   #5
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You dont know jack about me, I've been welding for the last 8 years installing fall safe anchor points and davit arms on high rise buildings for summit anchor to comply with the new OSHA requirements for 6 stories or higher. I'm OSHA 10 and 30 cert for all of those 8 years. I have blocks and wood, I'm not carrying on hand heeps of scrap like some scrapper trash.
Moving on, I guess maybe somone else can chime in on this subject with some constructive methods.
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Old September 29th, 2019, 21:03   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miningman View Post
tensile strength of concrete blocks
It's so low it's hardly worth calculating, all tension on concrete should be carried by the rebar by design.
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Old September 30th, 2019, 03:15   #7
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Well this turned into a d!ck measuring contest rather quickly... in before the lock
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Old September 30th, 2019, 04:05   #8
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You guys are so clueless. CMU block is good on it's own in the correct orientation for 2,000 psi. That's well more than what I'm going to out on it. All mobile homes are put up on this stuff on 2x2 stacks on concrete footers with wood shims for leveling, no rebar, no fill, just cmu block. As expected, come to a car forum asking non car things, everyone is a expert but no one can agree on it.
Go watch some boat building and restoration videos, these massive 50 ton boats are held up by nothing but the same darn stuff, lots of wood and block, usually wood, just stacks of 4x4 wood.

Once again, even a veteran member, looking for advice, gets reamed for asking.
I dont strip cars like a Harlem street mechanic here ok. This would be the first time I have parted out a car this far where it cant roll on it's own. And the first time I dont have a lift to work with so, EXCUUUUUSE MEEEEE!
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Old September 30th, 2019, 04:41   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongler98 View Post
You guys are so clueless.
... and yet you came here asking a question.


Your question is not even worth asking. And you clearly already had in your head you were not going to like any answer you got. So my answer will also be worthless: float the car up in the air with hot air balloons enough to get the underside exposed. There. Done. Lock this silly thread.
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Old September 30th, 2019, 04:48   #10
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The biggest thing is to make sure whatever you do is safe to push and pull and lean against before you get under it. The rest is on you.
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Old September 30th, 2019, 05:06   #11
eddieleephd
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Hey Mongler,
When I swapped my TDI in I used cement blocks with wood on them. They were sitting in dirt as well. I don't recommend just cement blocks, sure you know why.

If I were to do it on concrete I would put some boards under them to cushion and always use them in their structural form vertical, as I believe you know. Wider is better so if I was doing it two blocks high I would use three blocks for stability. Two on bottom and one on top with a wood block on top.

I've also used wood blocks for the same thing. Honestly, they're more trustworthy and can be held together with nails and screws. If I had a few railroad ties I would have chosen them. As it was I had some 4x4's and 2x4's along with cinder blocks.

I'm also the one who made a wooden crane to lift his engine using a 4x4 and a couple 2x4's which I chose not to get under.

I would use jack stands as a secondary support either way.

It is your life, so triple engineer everything for safe measure.
As we always say, these things are done at your own risk so be smart and over engineer everything!

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Old September 30th, 2019, 05:13   #12
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I'll take anyone constructive suggestions seriously. What I dont do is take criticism well, like most. I'd prefer something better but balloons and thoughts and prayers ain't going to cut it for me. I have 6 jack stands but there not nearly tall enough and not nearly stable enough to prop up a car in all 4s.
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Old September 30th, 2019, 05:41   #13
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Why do you need it higher than jack stands? Doesn't the engine and trans come out the front with the core support swung over to one side? That is how I remember doing one.
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Old September 30th, 2019, 08:52   #14
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Yea, but I'm a big fat guy and need room to pull the 3" exhaust and fuel tank, rear end, subframe, shifter, lines, and so forth. whatever is left under the car plus the creeper. Also this is on a concrete pad. Jack stands are a bit wobbly once on all 4 corners.
I'll keep them on for added safty though.
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Old September 30th, 2019, 09:29   #15
flee
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Get the 3-ton HF jackstands. Plenty strong and tall enough.
They don't wobble any more than anything else.
The problem with anything made from masonry is that it isn't made to support a point load.
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Last edited by flee; September 30th, 2019 at 09:33.
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