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Old June 16th, 2009, 08:54   #31
Canadian_Grizzly
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I've got a sinus cold, I think I'll drink some draino as I've heard some people actually lived after the poisoning. I just don't want the hassle of going to the pharmacy.
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Old June 16th, 2009, 10:25   #32
Archer
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Default Methodological alternatives (it's all about the options)

Wow. Quite an analogy there Grizz. My perspective is: Why perform surgery, if an antibiotic will work? Clearly, there are two camps of thought on this subject, and choosing the application that fits the need is the decision point. I don't endorse or condemn either method - whatever method works for the application is the right method for the application. Earlier in the thread, I put out a feeler for info on the seals and bearing material/construction, with the hope to determine if caustic chemicals would damage them - any feedback on this? Perhaps Garrett can shed some light?
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Old June 16th, 2009, 20:43   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom W.
Yes, it will. What parts of the exhaust side of the turbo are aluminum? I'm guessin that none of the parts are aluminum, as aluminum doesn't stand up to exhaust heat very well.
If anything is made out of aluminum, it's probably pretty thick.
One way to find out what Easy-off will do to aluminum is to spray some on an aluminum can, wait 3 hours, and see what happens. -Which I did, tore apart a coke can, left the Easy-Off in the can 24 hours- no affect on the aluminum can.
Um, the aluminum can isn't a good example to use because the inside of it is coated with a fine microlayer of plastic. Soda has a very low pH, diet soda moreso, and if the inside of the soda can wasn't coated, it would in essence be a battery.

I would suggest rinsing between chemicals, if you're going to do this. Combining an acid and a base will precipitate a salt, which you definitely don't want in a turbo.
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Old June 17th, 2009, 19:22   #34
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Archer, thanks for starting this thread. It got me thinking, researching, and DOING!

Great analogy-- why go thru major surgery when a shot of antibiotics will do?

Update: Still boosting PERFECTLY from 900 RPM (2-4PSI) thru 4500 rpm (20+ PSI). FULL range of motion in actuator, works very smoothly.
I drive 300 miles a week (200 freeway/ 100 in town). So, in 1200 miles, one month, I've had SO MUCH FUN!!!! This car is WAAAAAAY FAST!!!!!!!
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Old June 18th, 2009, 11:42   #35
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Googling around I ran across this Service Bulletin PDF: Mopar 6.7L Turbocharger Cleaning Procedure

It's interesting in that it describes drilling and tapping the exhaust side of the turbo and installing a stainless 'cleaning port plug'. The basic procedure for cleaning the turbo is to remove the plug, attach an adapter hose/nozzle, and empty 3 cans of water based solvent into the exhaust side turbo mechanism with the engine running.

I have no idea of what's in that solvent, but it's part #68044565AA at $6.94 a can at this place. The stainless plug is part #68050416AA at $13.20 from the same place. And here's an eBay listing for the Chrysler Miller 10142 Cummins Diesel Turbo Cleaning Kit hose/nozzle for $95.00 The only online seller I found for the drilling kit is here, for $150 smackers.

Just throwing this info out for you inventive adventurous types.
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Last edited by visionlogic; June 18th, 2009 at 13:54.
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Old June 18th, 2009, 13:02   #36
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Good ole' inventive Chrysler! I wonder if the O2 sensors are removed to protect them from damage during the cleaning process (may burn the tips off). Ford's procedure involves mechanical cleaning using a die grinder and emery discs.
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Old June 18th, 2009, 13:20   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Archer
I wonder if the O2 sensors are removed to protect them from damage during the cleaning process (may burn the tips off).
Yes, the O2 sensors are removed.
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Old June 22nd, 2009, 10:29   #38
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Default which Easy Off?

http://www.easyoff.us/sf2_all.shtml

Canadian Tire sells the first two on that page (Fume Free and Heavy Duty) for about $3.00

Not the 3rd one, BBQ Grill Cleaner.

Of the 3 products, which does everyone believe to be the best to go with?

Would any of them do the trick? The Fume Free one looks to be the safest, least caustic, but may not do the job.

Does anyone know where to buy the BBQ Grill Cleaner in Canada if that's what we need?

Other: interesting that the Cummins clean procedure is done with the engine running. I suppose that makes sure everything gets blown out the exhaust.

We need to write our own procedure for eg:

1. remove EGR pipe
2. spray in the Easy Off
3. work the vane actuator
4. keep doing 2&3, rotating the turbine, until the vanes are loose
5. rinse with water
6. maybe do a second round of 2-5 for more thorough cleaning?
7. blast with compressed air to remove most of the water?
8. re-install EGR pipe
9. fire up

Somebody revise procedure above as necessary.

Questions to answer:

How much time should the Easy Off be in contact with the turbo at full concentration before rinse?

Is a second round (step 6) useful? (someone said they got it loosened only to stick again a week or two later, so maybe they should have kept cleaning?)

Is Step 7 even necessary?

Is it necessary to disconnect the oil line? (My gut tells me no, since the oil lubricates the turbo bearings and not the vanes or turbine itself so spraying Easy Off into the exhaust side should not enter the oil system at all.)

Would be nice if some could document this procedure with pics as well.
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Old June 22nd, 2009, 12:34   #39
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Default how-to.

I will try to put together a better "how to" tonight.
Archer, maybe I should PM the how-to to you, have you proof it, improve it, and then post it?
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Old June 22nd, 2009, 12:48   #40
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Default "How To"

Works for me.
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Old June 22nd, 2009, 18:32   #41
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Default Neat idea.

Some visuals borrowed from this site to help.

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Old June 22nd, 2009, 18:45   #42
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I'm just curious about how much carbon is being cleaned. Is it true that you would have to block off the exhaust output the fill the whole exhaust side fo the turbo to soak all of the carbon, then run the risk of something getting past the shaft unless you put an small compressed air purge on the oil line....
What do you think about the idea of putting a little cleaner (maybe a tablespoon) into the EGR pipe port with the engine idling so that the turbo slings it around to get all of the vanes? Shut the engine off and cycle the vacuum on and of to the actuator, then just let it soak overnight. Next day take it for a drive to clerar it all out, then repeat until you get full range on the actuator. You would have to inject it somehow because if you pull the EGR pipe you now created a pressure leak which may stop or slow the turbine down????

So injecting oven cleaner with a syring at idle with the exhaust hooked up to get a nice secondary burn to clean out the cat. Like it. Who wants to try it?

How about Butyl Cellosolve, or is that whats in the oven cleaner?

Last edited by asnowsquall; June 23rd, 2009 at 08:58.
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Old June 22nd, 2009, 21:30   #43
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Good Thread and very interesting............. LOL. If I had tried this and posted the results, a few would have jumped on me like the proverbal dog on the bone!

However, I like to see deviation from the "book" to experiment with doing it different (whatever it is).

I've manually cleaned a few VNTs. There was no rust in any of them, just gooey soot.

I've used EasyOff to clean parts. It will tarnish aluminum. However, there is no aluminum on the exhaust side.

The VNT seal is similar to a very small compression ring.... that's it

The Vanes and related parts are Brass, as well as the bearings (bushings)

I'm thinking if you use the chemical clean method, you got to really exercise the Turbo right off in order to "blow out" any remaining crud!
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Old June 23rd, 2009, 22:40   #44
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so for those with the EGR delete, we could just pull off the exhaust manifold block-off plate, spray whatever "safe" cleaner we choose in there, manually actuate vanes?

from there some have said use H2O to "flush" it out? or should we try a little compressed air in there? if so is there any worry of all the goo traveling back UP the manifold into the exhaust side of the engine? obviously we would like the air to push whatever goo there is into the downpipe, but whats the chance it goes back up, and if so does that even really matter?
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Old June 24th, 2009, 05:00   #45
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I'm thinking of trying it today...

Last edited by asnowsquall; June 24th, 2009 at 05:11.
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