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TDI 101 Got a simple/basic TDI question? Are you a newbie (new to the forums). Feel free to post your question here.

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Old September 25th, 2009, 12:49   #16
festivenuts
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Ugh starting to get a headache with this alternator.

Any suggestions? I'm not sure if I'm clever enough to change the alternator.

Could it possibly be a malfunctioned alternator regulator. I just find it odd that I come back after 2 months and alternator just doesn't work...

I don't know where to go from here any suggestions
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Old September 25th, 2009, 13:41   #17
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In response to Steel's question, have a look at post #14:
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread...ernator+pulley
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Old September 25th, 2009, 15:24   #18
festivenuts
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yea my tdi has low idle and shakes as well (i push the pedal a bit to keep it smooth)

just picked up a 2003 120amp alternator from a bug. time to follow wingnuts guide

wish me luck!
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Old September 25th, 2009, 18:03   #19
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Thanks JB. So basically, the rate of acceleration (and deceleration) of the crank at idle is a lot more severe than a gasoline engine hence the one way clutch? One would think that they'd one way clutch everything that isn't indexed to the crankshaft then... or use a heavier flywheel. Hmm.
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Old September 25th, 2009, 19:57   #20
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90amp. alternator was update to 120amp. So if you have 90amp on your car you should update to 120amp.
Gas engine 120 has same alternator and pulley. 90 is not because it has solid pulley, but 120 has same .
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Old September 27th, 2009, 21:02   #21
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thanks to everyone for helping me out and steering me the right direction

thanks to wingnuts excellent write up i swapped out the broken alternator for a functioning 2003 vw bug 120 alternator

all is well now
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Old October 11th, 2019, 06:44   #22
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Final word was that a 120 amp alternator will work on a TDI or a gasser? They are swappable either way? I see one at IDParts I'm interested in for my 2.0L AZG.
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Old October 11th, 2019, 08:36   #23
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Yes. Correct. However, rebuilding them is the best option. They are not difficult to rebuild with new brushes and regulator. If the stator where the brushes ride is severe worn though, more than a mm or so, then it also needs to be replaced and that's where a junkyard one is best to rebuild. There is a thread here somewhere about how to rebuild them and links to all the OEM Bosch parts.
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Old October 11th, 2019, 09:45   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongler98 View Post
Yes. Correct. However, rebuilding them is the best option. They are not difficult to rebuild with new brushes and regulator. If the stator where the brushes ride is severe worn though, more than a mm or so, then it also needs to be replaced and that's where a junkyard one is best to rebuild. There is a thread here somewhere about how to rebuild them and links to all the OEM Bosch parts.
Thanks, I was hoping to rebuild but the pulley turns to the left just fine when I insert a screwdriver and locks to the right, the voltage regulator looks within spec:



Not sure what else there is to rebuild or how deep I can get into things. The only thing I can think of is when I was tapping it into place I knocked something loose inside.

The service alternator light hasn't been showing in the dash, but it is there when I turn the key.

It did fail the bench test at Advance:





My thought was to order the TYC for cheaper. This Bosch didn't prove to do too well at 3 years.

Last edited by intro; October 11th, 2019 at 09:47.
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Old October 11th, 2019, 16:52   #25
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Rebuilds are garbage. Do it yourself with proper parts, will be about $40 in parts, common tools do the job, you need to solder but it's not that bad
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Old October 17th, 2019, 13:30   #26
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The alternators from the Audis will work too. Most of them are 120amp
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