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Old February 28th, 2018, 08:52   #91
Gttdigonewrong
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Has anyone ever solved this problem with cam sensor fault. My 2007 gt tdi has been in 2 different garages now and not fixed in 2 years. Sam fault code as cam shaft sensor.
It’s had:
New ecu 3 times in 2 years
Cam Belt and pulley etc..
Fuel pump
New wiring loom
New cam and crank sensor
Tried all the earths around the whole car
Still not running any help?????
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Old February 28th, 2018, 10:57   #92
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Check engine harness for damage... particularly on top of the starter area but anywhere really where it is enclosed in corrugated loom
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Old February 28th, 2018, 11:18   #93
Mawcus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doca View Post
I have the long start implausible signal on the cam sensor on a 2008 BEW. I have replaced the sensor & the starting is identical if I unplug the sensor so I think I have a wiring fault. Can anyone tell me the where the 3 wires go to? what are the ECU pin nos?
Thanks.
Check the cable from the alternator to the battery and make sure all your battery connections are tight and dont wiggle.
This might help to
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.p...28&postcount=1
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=444620
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=245327 Post #5
It could also be a bad “new” cam sensor. I was getting a cam sensor code. Intermittent-no signal so i replaced it with a new one from a reputable vendor. It failed within a year or two. After chasing around other long start problems and replacing a lot of sh$t i probably didnt need to I reinstalled the original cam sensor and the starting problems went away. I mistakenly replaced a good sensor because the intermittent-no signal fault code i was getting was probably because of a voltage drop between the alternator and battery.
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Old February 28th, 2018, 12:41   #94
JB05
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I changed my cam sensor the other day although there were no DTC's or long starting cranks. Getting the new sensor in place and keeping it there to put the bolt back in was very tedious. Took several attempts along with a few breaks. I locked the bolt in the 10mm socket with the finger tip of a disposable glove and had a rag under the work area. Got a new grommet from a dealer.
Since the crank sensor cable was susceptible to heat damage, which I changed last month; I figured the cam sensor could go at any time.

Last edited by JB05; March 1st, 2018 at 05:21.
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Old February 28th, 2018, 15:23   #95
fruitcakesa
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Compared to my ALH's which almost would start with the heat of my fingers on the key, the 04 was a long crank starter from day one.
It always started but it usually required a few seconds of cranking and often more. But never enough of an issue to diagnose and fix
I did search the forum and found a TSB for a wire fix in the ECU that addressed long crank times. I bought the repair wire and immediately put it in the glove box.
More recently the car threw a cam position sensor code.
This time I addressed the issue and replaced the CPS.
Pretty straight forward install if you remove anything that could possibly interfere with hands and tools when placing and securing the sensor and if you pull the vac reservoir it makes getting the new rubber plug back in without dropping it into the nether regions of the engine
TOTALLY FIXED. Starts instantly like the ALH's
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Old August 20th, 2019, 11:15   #96
blueboy7
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Welcome back old thread.

Does anyone have a pic of the cam sensor wiring harness where it goes into the ECU?
I know there’s talk about replacing the wires but can you eliminate 100% of the old wire?
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Old August 21st, 2019, 07:55   #97
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Guess I’ll figure it out.

Starting is getting worse like it did when I had a brand new bad crank sensor.
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Old August 21st, 2019, 10:24   #98
JB05
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The three wires are very fine; more like 22 AWG. One is yellow/black, blue/black, green/black. Are you certain the cam sensor is at fault?
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Old August 21st, 2019, 12:30   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JB05 View Post
Are you certain the cam sensor is at fault?
I'm not sure of anything yet.
Codes I have from VCDS are
#1 Camshaft position sensor no signal - intermittent
#2 Oxygen sensor signal to high (rich)
I was planing on replacing the cam and crank sensor wires as much as I can get into the plugs.
Then go from there.
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Old August 21st, 2019, 15:38   #100
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Right now it takes about 5 seconds for the engine to fire with the cam sensor plugged in or unplugged.
Earlier today It took about 10 to 15 seconds to fire (hot engine).
Ground wire is good, yellow/black wire has 12 V and the blue/black has 5 V.

I'm thinking the sensor is bad and not the wiring harness.

Any thoughts?
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Old August 22nd, 2019, 08:38   #101
JB05
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I agree with your diagnosis regarding a bad sensor. It lives in a very hot environment.
I would source a new sensor from the dealer since it is not a fun job. I found out the hard way.
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Old August 30th, 2019, 20:26   #102
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All is good once again!
Ordered it from ID parts for $65, dealer wanted $225
Thanks JB05 and old thread.
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Old October 9th, 2019, 12:44   #103
five7driver
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Did you have luck with the Beru aftermarket part from ID parts? Seems like most posts here warn that the aftermarket parts are bad and advise to go with the expensive oem part. Are these an improvement?
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Old October 9th, 2019, 14:33   #104
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Working good so far. Drove the car nearly every day since then. Still doesn’t like hot starts, but I guess that’s the nature of that little monster.
A Malone tune is supposed to take care of that. But I’m trying to figure out what stage to get. Originally planned on stage 4. But that might be pushing the limits on the clutch.
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