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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKV-A5 Golf/Jettas

VW MKV-A5 Golf/Jettas Discussions area for A5/MkV Jetta/Golf (2005/2006 PD and 2009 CR).

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Old August 8th, 2017, 16:12   #31
Henrick
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I'm getting confused - so is 200 Nm + 180 degrees a wet torque spec? Or is it dry? If it's dry, then how are you supposed to get rid of the grease which is in CV threads?

Also, what is strange, is that I took out the bolt which had "ribbed shoulder". It had 10.9 marking and it's torque is supposed to be 70 Nm + 90 degrees. But I installed the version "without ribs" which is rated only at 8.8.

Weird, isn't it?
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Old August 9th, 2017, 11:06   #32
banshee365
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The bolts should NOT be purposely lubricanted prior to install. If you have some grease I the threads of the wheel hub don't worry about cleaning it out. But, keep the underside of the bolt head and the surface it rides on dry and clean.
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Old August 9th, 2017, 12:38   #33
Henrick
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Great, means I've done everything correctly. Thanks for sharing the information.
I hope this thread might be useful for many people on how to deal with that bolt correctly.
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Old September 4th, 2019, 22:39   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by banshee365 View Post
I think that info is far from correct. For one you can't even buy the hex bolt anymore. I've done several 12 pt bolts without the ridges lately to the 200nm +90 spec and havn't had an issue.
I know that this is a old thread, but I replaced the 6-pt bolt on my 2006 a year ago. From vwpartsvortex.com.
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Old September 4th, 2019, 22:57   #35
subber598
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Henrick View Post
I'm getting confused - so is 200 Nm + 180 degrees a wet torque spec? Or is it dry? If it's dry, then how are you supposed to get rid of the grease which is in CV threads?

Also, what is strange, is that I took out the bolt which had "ribbed shoulder". It had 10.9 marking and it's torque is supposed to be 70 Nm + 90 degrees. But I installed the version "without ribs" which is rated only at 8.8.

Weird, isn't it?
Not at all, I'm dealing with the same issue on my mk6 which I started repairing today. So the consensus is smooth flange =148ftlb + 180deg? Still trying to understand why VW didn't just make it easy on us all and retain the hex bolt.
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Old October 6th, 2019, 19:13   #36
FJ40Jim
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My 2012 Mk6 wagon has the 12pt, no ribs bolt. The new bolts were easily torqued to 148ft/lbs, but now that it's on the ground, there's no way a 1/2" breaker bar and chrome socket are going another 180*.


Just got back from harrible frate, they have a 3/4"Dr metric set, which includes a breaker bar, ratchet and chrome 12pt sockets, with lifetime warranty. All for the low price of $52 with the common 20% coupon.


The breaker bar and 24mm socket, combined with a 3' drop of 1.50DOM tube, had no problem turning the bolt in the rest of the way.


Thanks to this thread for the confirmation on the tork spec and the difficulty in achieving it.
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Old October 16th, 2019, 11:09   #37
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I'm assuming that under-torquing cause the wheel bearing to fail and make noise sooner than being torqued correctly? I've done the wheel bearings on my car and have only ever been able to get 90 out of the TTY step, not 180. A couple of the bearings have been twice, and now I have another one that needs to be replaced twice. I'm outside of warranty, and probably at least 50k miles on bearings, but I had one OEM bearing last until 200k miles. So, I'm wondering if my under-torque is causing them to fail sooner than if I had gotten the full 180 turn on the torque?

Has anyone else had similar issues with theirs, and not going to the full 180?

I have purchased all my bearing from a reputable TDIclub vendor.
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Old October 28th, 2019, 21:28   #38
James & Son
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I can't say for sure. If you are not satisfied time to do some follow up as to the quality of the bearings and hub with your supplier.

The original hex screw had a separate washer which allowed easier turning for the same clamping force. The new one piece screw and washer increases the friction to produce the same clamping force.

Also note that a dry locktite is also on the thread, I would imagine because they expected a lot of not to spec. torque.

I would expect quality of the bearings and hub assembly to have the greatest affect on longevity
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Old October 28th, 2019, 21:39   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by banshee365 View Post
Yes, that's how I do it. You should apply the 200 Nm value to the bolt first before selling weight on the wheel bearing though. Then, with the wheel on the ground, perform the half turn for final torque.
This also can have an effect on longevity. Use the above procedure as stated by banshee
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