Just need a tid bit of help adjusting IQ with vcds

2003 ALH

Hey guys, real quick, update from months ago, my old thread is below. I had a feeling I was wanting a run around the expensive Injection pump, but I changed it. I changed it twice actually. Thanks to the guys at Hans Auto for sending me a new pump after the first one did not work. A little stressful, but I am a master at it now.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=498869

I am facing a new problem. I believe the IQ is off. I am finding myself having to bleed the injectors every time I want to start the thing.

I am posting pictures in imgur as a community post, so hopefully we can have new pictures in google images on these old cars.

You can see them here:
https://imgur.com/gallery/ZdR2wAi

and also in this post underneath:

I need to know what to do, to change my IQ. I think I did it already, changing from 32768 to 32668, but not all my readings match the myturbodiesel forums directions for 100% throttle. https://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/injection-quantity-adjustment-fuel-pump-hammer-mod/

Please help with any suggestions.

The IQ setting might affect starting but I don't see a connection between the IQ and having to bleed injectors. What's your IQ now?

Know that that vendor is not well thought of here.

I can't view your pichers. Idunno if it's the firewall my son set up or what.

Why not post them here?

Hey guys,

To solve confusion about the restarting, I had to replace a leaking return line, so that must have been that issue. I just stopped and restarted it 3 times with no issue. I am letting the engine cool for an hour and will restart it then and post the results.

@KLXD, my pictures are on this post as well, they are insanely big though. I do not know why.

My IQ was between 2 and 3 mg/str, so I changed the 32768 value to 32668 in adaptation. I am unaware of how to do it otherwise. It changed the IQ to between 4-5 mg/str. The picture shows 5.6 mg/str

I'd agree that IQ in and of itself is probably not related to your issue, nor is the leaking return line in my opinion.

Search for "Prothe" here (or the internet in general) and all fingers will point to the quality of the pump itself being the very first suspect.

I mention this only to potentially save yourself a lot of time... if you have *any* way to try a pump from somewhere else I'd sure try that, before potentially chasing your tail for days with your current pump.

I see.

well poop

See if you can resize your photos on imgur - something like 800x600 or at most, 1024x[whatever].

I have a couple used OEM IPs kicking around here - and there seem to always be at least a couple for sale in the "For Sale" sub-forum. That's always going to be the better bet over whatshisnuts at Hans Autos or whatever he's calling his eBay store this week.

There are no photos in the TDI photo gallery under the user name Dreznon. Smaller photos will be more welcoming to those that would like to chime in.

I do not know how to post pictures in tdiclub gallery.

I have resized the photos.

@Nuje, I appreciate the offer, but I am sure I am fine, just need to wait for some special parts to come in the mail. The mickey tee, and clip.

I also replaced the leaking fuel lines with the closest thing I could get at the time.

The closest thing I could get was smaller than normal, I believe if I at least get proper size even if it was only enough for the return line then my issue will be solved.

Yep! For that engine temp, the IQ number is a bit high. I ran my 2000 Jetta around 2.7. At that setting, it started good, idled good and the MPGs and power were very satisfactory.

The Timing is off the chart advanced.

If you have no adjustment left at the slotted Sprocket on the Injection Pump, you will have to go back to step 1 and re-set the mechanical timing.

TDC for the Cam and Crankshaft is the first thing you do. Then, see if you can get the pin in the Injection Pump hole. If not, I'd loosen the Timing Belt tensioner. Then, I'd loosen (a couple of turns) the bolt on the Cam Sprocket and break the Sprocket loose from the Taper fit by use of a drift/hammer or the proper puller. Next, I'd move the IP Sprocket and install the pin. Then, loosen the Three IP bolts. There's absolutely no need to pull the TB off any of the Sprocket Cogs unless you cannot get the marks and pin to line up.

Now, you should be ready to re-tension the TB with the three bolts in the IP Sprocket centered as close as possible in the slots. When all is done, it should start and be darn close to perfectly timed.

@AndyBees: I have plenty of room on the IP sprocket. I have since moved a quarter to half millimeter retarded and it is dead nuts on the middle.

TBH it will only stay in the middle until after I fix this weird starting issue. I have been directed to the mickey mouse tee and clip thread.

Since this post, I have went for two drives. The first one was a one hour country ride. the next one was just to the end of the block.

The country ride had on issue. Stalling when dropping 5th gear to brake, as in putting it in neutral. I seen the battery fail signal, knew I stalled, then just put it in gear and released the clutch. No problems the rest of the ride home (about 20 minutes later).

The ride to the end of the road had the same stall happen. This time, the engine wouldn't start. I bleed the injectors and poof, they're magically delicious.

Summary, waiting on money for parts, and will report, probably in a week or two.

Can't offer much, many possibles. Loss of prime is a leak, Find it, fix it, could even be something silly like those injector fuel return tubes. I can also tell you an unmodified TDI likes the IQ lower, like 2.2, but where you have it set is recommended and well within specifications.
I can help with photos:
Short version:
Log in again at pics.tdiclub.com
Select Upload button, follow prompts (check your file type)
At the end, harvest the url to use as a link for your post
Note there are 3 sizes with separate urls. For large data use the thumbnail, it shows the full size when clicked.
More complete instructions in my signature.

drivebiwire once claimed the ideal IQ for an unaltered ALH engine is 2.8. That helped my slowdown shutter.

Losing prime while the engine is running is not something that should happen. If that is going on, you should observe either a gush of leaking fuel somewhere, or there is a massive air leak getting into the fuel plumbing somewhere. Tracking that down will be a 'fun' task.

I also echo the above disparaging comments related to the vendor from whom you bought the pump. You should have sent the old one off to have it refurbished by a good shop such as DFIS. If that is not possible (or even if it is) then check the parts for sale threads as used pumps come up periodically, and could be much more easily serviceable than other means. Unfortunately, the outlook for longevity and good performance for your chinesium pump is poor.

Cheers,

PH

Dreznon said:

@AndyBees: I have plenty of room on the IP sprocket. I have since moved a quarter to half millimeter retarded and it is dead nuts on the middle.

TBH it will only stay in the middle until after I fix this weird starting issue. I have been directed to the mickey mouse tee and clip thread.

Since this post, I have went for two drives. The first one was a one hour country ride. the next one was just to the end of the block.

The country ride had on issue. Stalling when dropping 5th gear to brake, as in putting it in neutral. I seen the battery fail signal, knew I stalled, then just put it in gear and released the clutch. No problems the rest of the ride home (about 20 minutes later).

The ride to the end of the road had the same stall happen. This time, the engine wouldn't start. I bleed the injectors and poof, they're magically delicious.

Summary, waiting on money for parts, and will report, probably in a week or two.

Click to expand...

Did you get the Mickey Mouse clip put back on the fuel filter tee?

Thank you for explaining the photo upload directions. I should have fun with that.

Well, there is no fuel leaking, that I know of unless it is so small that it only bubbles out. Yes "fun" is what we will call this. I'm gong to have to in order to change my attitude.

I did install the mickey mouse clip, Jokila. Now I only have to mess with bleeding the injectors every few days.

The last time I loosened them they spewed fuel out without turning the engine over. I just tightened them again and the car started. Sheesh.

I forgot I still have american size fuel injection hose on it (3.2mm), so real hose will be ordered this weekend from Kerma or Idparts. I just dipped the last of my money on a total front end kit, plus new cv axles.

There is one thing, my brake bleeder broke as I primed the pump and although I was able to get a steady flow of diesel coming to the reservoir of the bleeder, I am afraid that it was not enough and this has been my issue all along. I keep forgetting and thinking of all these other things (such as hoses and injectors). I will buy a new bleeder and will post results (if any air bubbles come out as I re-prime the pump). Then post again after my finding.

My apologies for the late reply, I was put back on ten hour days and took a vacation two weekends ago. I then caught up with local family last weekend. I always think of you guys and all of your help. Thank you so much.

I have skipped over some readings on acciedent. Most likely from dealing with the issues at the time and being busy. I see that people are suggesting that my IQ be set between 2.2 - 2.8. I will try this in the morning.

First of all thank you everyone for chiming in to help me.

LKQ junkyard had 40% off during labor day and while I was there I remembered I need to try those o-rings on the fuel filter T. I snagged a fuel filter T. It had the blue and black o-ring on it.

I installed that fuel filter T and new hose from fuel filter to firewall. My old hose was pretty dry-rotted and I found a pristine condition one for donor.

Ever since I interchanged those components last Monday, I have not had to bleed the injectors once. It is now the next Monday. If we were going by the problem I had at the beginning of this thread I would have had to bleed the injectors everyday without the mickey clip and every 2-3 days without the proper o-rings and possibly the check valve being part broken.

Hats off to Jokila, he called it from day one. He has got to be the smartest one on tdiclub.com

I do have a cold start problem still, but I think we are past the IQ issue now. My IQ is between 2.2-2.8 and consistently 2.8 while warm.

I also added the proper fuel return line hose on and has not helped the cold start

My timing is smack dab in the middle as requested, but I assure you I will be readjusting it to advanced as soon as I get the cold start issue figured out.

My plan is to replace the injector hard lines next. They are coming in the mail.

Right now I turn on the accessories and wait for dinging to stop, turn the ignition off and then repeat 2 more times. I will then start my car with a very short delay.

Does this mean it is my glow plugs? Does this mean it is my glow plug regulator relay? I am still trying to make my cars fuel sector all new. Once that is done I will try out the glow plugs.

By the way, the car is very nice to ride in with all the new suspension components.

Injector hard lines on today.

Still hard on cold start.

I'm not going to lie, this car has never liked any weather under 55 degrees, but it is still 70 degrees outside most of the time.

Maybe the coolant glowplugs? Maybe the engine plugs? tiring...

The part that gets me is that there are no trouble codes. The car thinks it is fine. aye, aye, aye.

Have you replaced the engine coolant sensor recently? If not, it wouldn’t hurt to do so, they’re like 12 bucks, easy to swap out, and could be contributing to the hard starts when cold. Just a thought.