Japanese Mini Truck build

1Z swap in my 4x4 Mini Truck

Hi all,
My plans for the use of this truck will be a grocery getter if registration allows offroading/trailriding with my buddies that have ATVs, sidexsides, mud trucks,etc. I bought this truck with the plans of transplanting a diesel drivetrain. I thought about a TDI but it seemed a little far fetched so i decided to transplant a diesel drivetrain i had built for another project. Shortly after i installed the diesel kubota/cushman 3spd drivetrain in the truck i decided it was not enough power, AT ALL. SO my search for a donor VW TDI began. As far as suspension i am leaning towards coil overs but am tossing around the idea of air bags. The downfall of airbags is keeping the electronics dry and the possibility of puncturing a bag while off-roading.

Drivetrain:
- 96 1z 5spd

Vehicle:
- Suzuki Carry also known as japanese truck, farm truck, mini truck, etc.
- Factory drivetrain and running gear stripped

Plans:
- TDI 1z swap
- samurai axle swap
- 5 link suspension set up
- Airbag system (manual valve system)
- Custom steel wheels
- A/C install
- stereo
- Offroad LED lighting
more will be added I'm sure

Thanks for looking..........
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Starting the 5link build with suzuki samurai axles

removing the old running gear
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old running gear removed
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Cradle brackets welded on
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Fabbing high misalignment spacers for the link brackets out of DOM tubing

High misalignment spacers welded onto all of the link brackets

test fitting the heim joints on the link brackets


Setting the rear axle in place


Rear axle link brackets welded in place & link bars built

When i bought the passat, the previous owner said that he took it in to have the A/C repaired and after he picked it up and drove it, it lost power. Right after he noticed it he pulled over and got it towed to a local shop. It ended up being a harmonic balancer failure. they replaced it with a "new style" HB and it had a ticking/knocking noise. The shop & people he had talked with about the issue said it was most likely the cam & lifters. So, today I removed the valve cover and found this......by the way the car has 259,xxx miles and the previous owner has put 80,xxx miles on it and did not replace the timing belt



looks to be some scaring on the lobes


also looks to be a copper ring on a few lifters. Bearing wear??

For the cam and lifters, I would be more concerned with the chamfer on the lobes, and if the lifter tops have any cracks.

If the engine is still in the car, I would remove the upper timing belt cover and turn the engine over to inspect the entire belt. If the belt looks intact enough to run the engine, I would start it and listen for noises myself, rather than going by someone's description.

Then you'll know what you are dealing with.

You're putting a timing belt kit on the engine, right?

Windex said:

For the cam and lifters, I would be more concerned with the chamfer on the lobes, and if the lifter tops have any cracks.

If the engine is still in the car, I would remove the upper timing belt cover and turn the engine over to inspect the entire belt. If the belt looks intact enough to run the engine, I would start it and listen for noises myself, rather than going by someone's description.

Then you'll know what you are dealing with.

You're putting a timing belt kit on the engine, right?

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Thank you for your reply. When i inspected the lifters, i didn't see any cracks but i will take a better look.

The motor is still in the car and the belt is in decent shape to run the car. I had to drive the car on and off the car hauler when i picked it up. This is how i knew 100% the car was making noises.

Yes, i will be ordering a timing belt kit,cam & lifters this week. Do you have any recommendations for any quality parts to buy?

IDparts, boraparts are both trusted vendors. I have ordered belt kits from both with good results.

I would time the car before disassembly to know what you are dealing with, and to try and isolate where the noise is coming from.

noisy lifters can be sticky from sitting or age, they can also be deprived of oil pressure.

If the existing belt is up to the task, I would run the car after confirming the timing, and determine where the noise is coming from.

Dude!!!! THAT OBS IS SEX!

Also, awesome build! I got a tdi samurai.

samuraitd said:

Dude!!!! THAT OBS IS SEX!

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thank you!!! here is a better shot of it

Love it! This little guy could be a rocket! What are you using for a transmission/tcase?

ToyotaTDI said:

Love it! This little guy could be a rocket! What are you using for a transmission/tcase?

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i am anxious to get working on it again. I will be using the stock 5spd. the spiders will be welded and the motor will be turned 90* making the outputs face front & back

You could buy an acme adapter and run a samurai transmission and transfer case. That way you could gear it however you want

samuraitd said:

You could buy an acme adapter and run a samurai transmission and transfer case. That way you could gear it however you want

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The big issue with these trucks is the amount of room you have to work with. Any RWD transmission will be to long. I do appreciate the suggestion

here is a quick video of it running and you can hear the noises it is making. From what i was told and what i have heard and seen under the VC, I am hoping it is just a cam and lifters. Feel free to give your 2cents. Thanks for looking





Brad

I had a 1993 HiJet once upon a time - there is precious little room there. One of the nice things was the high/low range transfer case. One could with some fabrication skills (that you certainly seem to have!), use the Passat transmission - nice and compact, full time 4x4 in this case... just no low range.

Hasenwerk said:

I had a 1993 HiJet once upon a time - there is precious little room there. One of the nice things was the high/low range transfer case. One could with some fabrication skills (that you certainly seem to have!), use the Passat transmission - nice and compact, full time 4x4 in this case... just no low range.

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It is definitely tight in the factory engine compartment. I will be mounting the 1Z behind the cab this way it will be mid engine. The factory passat 5spd is in fact going in. I will also have 2wd capability by unlocking the front hubs.

Brad

this build is awesome!!!

FuelAddict said:

It is definitely tight in the factory engine compartment. I will be mounting the 1Z behind the cab this way it will be mid engine. The factory passat 5spd is in fact going in. I will also have 2wd capability by unlocking the front hubs.

Brad

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Euh?

You are running the factory Passat 5spd (welding the diff?) with each axle flange going to a front or rear driveshaft, then through the samaurai diffs?

Windex said:

Euh?
You are running the factory Passat 5spd (welding the diff?) with each axle flange going to a front or rear driveshaft, then through the samaurai diffs?

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Yes, that is correct

str8t six said:

this build is awesome!!!

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Thank you!!

Brad

Windex said:

Euh?

You are running the factory Passat 5spd (welding the diff?) with each axle flange going to a front or rear driveshaft, then through the samaurai diffs?

Click to expand...

FuelAddict said:

Yes, that is correct

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Have you worked out your final drive ratios and what your cruising rpm's will be? or are you not planning on driving this on the road that much?

greengeeker said:

Have you worked out your final drive ratios and what your cruising rpm's will be? or are you not planning on driving this on the road that much?

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I have not worked on the ratios yet. I do plan on driving this on the street quite often.

Brad

This is a totally awesome build and your fabrication skills are a wonder to behold. I've eyed those Kei cars and trucks up in BC for about 10 years now. With kids it would be like owning a motorcycle, but someday. Your conversion here makes it look even more fun and appealing though.
Keep up the good work and updates!

Andrew

FuelAddict said:

I have not worked on the ratios yet. I do plan on driving this on the street quite often.

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What is your axle ratio and tire size?

greengeeker said:

What is your axle ratio and tire size?

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I assumed 35" tires and 3.73 gears:

greengeeker said:

I assumed 35" tires and 3.73 gears:

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awesome!!! I really appreciate that, it doesn't seem like a daily driver. I will be running between a 30''-35'' tires. It all depends on my final ride height.


EDIT:

i did not pay attention to the RPMs when i first looked at it.

greengeeker said:

I assumed 35" tires and 3.73 gears:

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No faster than what the 660cc engine did in first place!

<EDIT>
OK - I take that back - I could get my HiJet to 105km/h on the flat, with a tail wind on a good day... this seems to be about half that speed assuming you don't drive around at red line all the time. This would make a GREAT rock crawler geared like this! Suppose you could install some Unimog sized 44" tall tires... nope - this isn't a highway speed truck!
</EDIT>

2000RPMs @25mph in 5th doesn't seem that good to me unless you want a tractor.