Greetings
***NOTE: For those that don't like long-winded, detailed posts, skip to the numbered questions below** but, for context...
OK, the sedan is being quirky and I'm taking my first shot at diagnosing the low power issue. First, background:
A few months ago, the only symptom I was having was, occasionally, if I really got on it in 1st gear (e.g. did not roll into the throttle @ 1800rpm or so, just went WOT), it would sputter, go nowhere, and spew a huge cloud of black smoke. I would then let off the pedal and it would go along it's merry way. This happened maybe 4-6x. I was pretty good about rolling into the throttle instead of stomping on it.
Then, in the last 2 or 3 weeks, it's happening more often + the car seems underpowered. It is especially bad when it hits about 140 degrees on it's way up to 190 (e.g. that zone where it's ok, to start driving it normally, but isn't fully warmed up yet). I'm noticing a general lack of 'pull' and, when going WOT in 2nd-4th, it will even rev up and then start pulling a bit more after 3500rpm. Just really inconsistent power and never full power, as I can tell. It went into limp mode 1x, but I can't replicate it, even on a hill.
Unplugged the MAF and it runs somewhat better, but the problem doesn't resolve itself completely. With the tune, the MAF unplugged defaults to, I think, 1275 (see logs).
Right now, my hand is pretty banged up from racquetball, so getting deep into it will have to wait a week or two and I can update the thread then. However, for now..
(1) when unplugging the MAF, an *improvement* in power is indicative of a MAF problem, or, if the MAF is the issue, unplugging it should resolve it altogether? With the MAF unplugged, it still sputtered, just not as bad.
(2) the vacuum hose from the N75 to the actuator is the cloth braided type. Other hoses have been replaced, it appears. Should that one be replaced as well, as a matter of course? Do most replace the actuator hose with a high temp silicone rather than the cloth braided?
that's it for now. After getting the MAF question answered, I'll move on to the hoses and then testing the actuator and N75 (per the diagnostic thread).
Here are the logs i've taken. If anybody wants to see any different blocks, etc., let me know. It's my first time posting logs, so let me know if I do something wrong:
MAF plugged in:
http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/500/LOG-01-003-011-004.pdf
MAF unplugged:
http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/500/2LOG-01-003-011-004.pdf
any tips on to properly read these things would be great....
Sorry for the long post..I tend to be thorough...
matt
***NOTE: For those that don't like long-winded, detailed posts, skip to the numbered questions below** but, for context...
OK, the sedan is being quirky and I'm taking my first shot at diagnosing the low power issue. First, background:
A few months ago, the only symptom I was having was, occasionally, if I really got on it in 1st gear (e.g. did not roll into the throttle @ 1800rpm or so, just went WOT), it would sputter, go nowhere, and spew a huge cloud of black smoke. I would then let off the pedal and it would go along it's merry way. This happened maybe 4-6x. I was pretty good about rolling into the throttle instead of stomping on it.
Then, in the last 2 or 3 weeks, it's happening more often + the car seems underpowered. It is especially bad when it hits about 140 degrees on it's way up to 190 (e.g. that zone where it's ok, to start driving it normally, but isn't fully warmed up yet). I'm noticing a general lack of 'pull' and, when going WOT in 2nd-4th, it will even rev up and then start pulling a bit more after 3500rpm. Just really inconsistent power and never full power, as I can tell. It went into limp mode 1x, but I can't replicate it, even on a hill.
Unplugged the MAF and it runs somewhat better, but the problem doesn't resolve itself completely. With the tune, the MAF unplugged defaults to, I think, 1275 (see logs).
Right now, my hand is pretty banged up from racquetball, so getting deep into it will have to wait a week or two and I can update the thread then. However, for now..
(1) when unplugging the MAF, an *improvement* in power is indicative of a MAF problem, or, if the MAF is the issue, unplugging it should resolve it altogether? With the MAF unplugged, it still sputtered, just not as bad.
(2) the vacuum hose from the N75 to the actuator is the cloth braided type. Other hoses have been replaced, it appears. Should that one be replaced as well, as a matter of course? Do most replace the actuator hose with a high temp silicone rather than the cloth braided?
that's it for now. After getting the MAF question answered, I'll move on to the hoses and then testing the actuator and N75 (per the diagnostic thread).
Here are the logs i've taken. If anybody wants to see any different blocks, etc., let me know. It's my first time posting logs, so let me know if I do something wrong:
MAF plugged in:
http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/500/LOG-01-003-011-004.pdf
MAF unplugged:
http://pics.tdiclub.com/data/500/2LOG-01-003-011-004.pdf
any tips on to properly read these things would be great....
Sorry for the long post..I tend to be thorough...
matt