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TDI Conversions Discussions on converting non TDIs into TDIS. More general items can be answered better in other sections. This is ideal for issues that don't have an overlap and are very special to swaping engines.

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Old October 25th, 2017, 22:03   #16
Josh_WA
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What you have should be fine. I’ve seen a few variations of modding the gas sender to work. The diesel sender hasn’t been much more to add on when I’ve got my parts, so I’ve added it in for both. Just showing the details of how I’m making the stock diesel sender work into the originally gas tank.

How are you keeping the hoses to the bottom? Good to have some sort of strainer in there also to keep any large debri going into the hoses
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Old October 26th, 2017, 08:28   #17
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Whew. The question of "should I have a lift pump?" always floats around in my head.
I put two big hose barb connectors on the ends of the feed and return to weight them down. I also put an inline fuel filter on the suction side so I can catch big stuff before it gets up to the main filter.
I cut my filler neck up and made it completely open so I can use jerry cans and the big semi diesel fuel isles at truck stops.

Thats a brave man drilling a new dipstick hole. Good job! Lookin like your gettin cose!
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Old October 26th, 2017, 09:07   #18
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Yeah, the stock ABL fuel sender is just that. I should have took picture of it. It does not have a lift pump in it. Just a spring loaded assembly to keep it pressed to the bottom once it is tightened down. I forgot to mention then that I depinned the 4 pin connector, taped of the power and ground, then pushed the fuel level signal pins into a 2 pin connector to fit the lift pump.

Luckily I've aimed correctly and hit the flat just right for the dipstick, but yes, not sure what I would do to fix it if I screwed up.

Just got my clutch in the mail, so tomorrow I'll be able to get it attached to the engine, then mate the transmission and hopefully set it all into the engine compartment. If all my wiring is right, I should at least be able to get a test fire. My remaining bits to finish off after that:

coolant plumbing(easy)
power steering plumbing (may need a couple small parts)
AC pump modification to attach the EV lines (easy)
intake plumbing to include intercooler (going to try and use the stock passat intercooler between the engine and hood in the stock location)
downpipe (I can figure the angles, but will need to go to the welder)
have someone weld my go pedal together.
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Old October 30th, 2017, 10:43   #19
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Got my clutch in the mail. Reinstalled the fly wheel with the Dutch auto parts mating tin in place. Conveniently had an extra set of new fly wheel bolts from my last build. New throw out bearing as well.



Once the clutch was on, lowered it down to the my transmission and mated those. 3 bolts to hold it together aside from the locating nubs. Probably the biggest pain is getting the transmission back into place. In hindsight, I should have installed the transmission, then brought the engine in to mate up. There's plenty of space to move around with the little 4 cylinder. Either way, it's in place now.



I've reconnected everything i needed to get a test start but ran out of motivation to run to the nearest diesel pump to put fuel in my fuel can. The starter turned over the engine though.
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Old November 2nd, 2017, 09:06   #20
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It lives. Got my test start yesterday. Just let it run for about 30 secs, but I know it operates. I had a head scratcher before I got it to start though. Everything was wired and connected to get a start, but it would just turn over, no start. Relay 109 would constantly click as well. Rechecked I was getting power in right places and was. So basically wasn’t getting power to the ecu. Checked my two extra relay 109s in my working van and they worked fine. Found a thread on the internet about this and realized that the ecu case needs to be grounded. Didn’t know this. On my first van, I had put the ecu in the stock location, which grounded it to the body. With this Passat wiring, it was more convenient to put it on the other side under the stock air filter, but not bolted to the body. Ran a separate ground wire to the ecu body and it fired right up.

Left to complete list:

Downpipe
Power steering plumbing
Modify ac compressor to accept EV lines
Reassemble dash
Weld go pedal
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Old November 2nd, 2017, 15:18   #21
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The ECU case does not need to be grounded.
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Old November 2nd, 2017, 16:22   #22
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If I take the ground from my case, relay 109 will constantly click and no start. Grounded the case and it immediately started. Not disputing, but in my case, I needed to.
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Old November 2nd, 2017, 18:50   #23
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^Mine does the same thing.^
Also If I stall mine it will crank normally but not start,I have to remove the 109,plug it
back in and all is good.(new 109)

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Old November 6th, 2017, 03:03   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh_WA View Post
If I take the ground from my case, relay 109 will constantly click and no start. Grounded the case and it immediately started. Not disputing, but in my case, I needed to.
there is something amiss in your wiring or ecu

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1.9ZOOK View Post
^Mine does the same thing.^
Also If I stall mine it will crank normally but not start,I have to remove the 109,plug it
back in and all is good.(new 109)
that's normal operation.... turn the key all the way back to the off position next time you stall it, instead of pulling r109
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Old November 6th, 2017, 03:04   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hasenwerk View Post
The ECU case does not need to be grounded.
this ^^^
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Old November 6th, 2017, 07:00   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimbote View Post
there is something amiss in your wiring or ecu
Thanks, this got me to thinking. There was a ground wire not tied down I was thinking was for the glow plug circuit. Iíve got it grounded now. That could have been it. Iíll try pulling my case ground to see if it the relay doesnít constantly click.
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Old November 13th, 2017, 12:32   #27
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Worked on the AC compressor. The Eurovan AC high and low side hoses are too large to fit in the donor Passat AC compressor inputs. Both need to be enlarged to at least 5/8 approximately to fit my hoses. There is a notch in the existing holes, which threw off my center on the D opening. Should still work fine. Here's a shot of the openings enlarged to 5/8.

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Old November 15th, 2017, 11:01   #28
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Got a friend to weld up the top of the passat pedal to the bottom of the EV pedal.



Also, put the cap back onto the AC compressor and loosely connected the hoses. Still need to get some replacement o-rings, then charge up the system. There's a small locator pin so that the cap is on in a particular position. As far as I can tell, there nothing that appears to be affected by the orientation of that cap. Anyone removed that locator pin and rotated the end cap before without any issue. It would help with a little hose binding. Reaches ok as is, but a little extra freedom wouldn't hurt.
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Old November 27th, 2017, 15:44   #29
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Finished up the exhaust down pipe. Here it is just tacked together and compared with my first vans pipe routing template. Worked out well and was able to use the original flange at the end.



And my friend finishing the welds.



Managed to rework some of the original intercooler pipework to situate the Passat intercooler atop the engine. Some crude brackets that hold well. Totally functional in place, but cannot add oil without having to remove the intercooler. I'll leave it to whomever buys this one to experiment with other intercooler routing.



Took it for a good test drive and it drives great, until you get on the highway. I haven't changed out the 5th gear yet. Running 3krpm at 60mph. Not a great way to roll down the road with the tdi. I have a .756 5th gear from the B4 that i may to try and see how well it cuts into the rpm. I'll otherwise try to get ahold of something between .717 and 6.58. Those would definately be a great improvement.

Other that that, there are plenty of superficial items that need to be adjusted or taken care of. the interior is very dirty. Really could use about 4 inches more on the lower coolant line. Which presently keeps the radiator from being put into maintenace mode. Sounds like the one of the rear brakes is dragging in reverse. And the coolant needs to be charged. I'm currently still below my $2k budget for everything all together with a couple hundred to spare. I'm sure it is overall close to 3K spent, but I've sold about 1k worth of used parts.
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Old January 11th, 2018, 17:37   #30
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These came into stock, and were ordered and received. This is a must if you are keeping the CHP 02b.

https://flic.kr/p/DJZzFT
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