RV9Factory
Well-known member
Just got done putting a new turbo in the car. Before starting the job I noticed the battery was getting weak. Car sat for a month before I started the job and by the time I started, the battery was dead (never tried to start the car).
After I got the turbo in I bought a new battery and installed it. Car started and ran great for a day then died for no apparent reason.
Was able to restart the car after some long cranking but then oil light and warning chime came on. Stopped the car and checked the oil. Restarted car. Oil light came on as well as traction control and steering wheel lights. Decided it was probably electrical not oil and drove to parts store. They tested and said voltage regulator on alternator was shot.
Installed new alternator. Car started easily but battery light on. No other lights or warnings.
Took back to store and they tested it & said new alternator was bad. Battery tested good but "needs charge".
Got another alternator and installed it. Same thing. Battery light on.
Tested first new alternator that was "bad" in the car but it tested good on the bench!
So I'm thinking the second new alternator, which tests bad in the car, is probably ok. But I'm only getting a little over 12 volts with the engine running.
Any ideas? Is it possible that the blown voltage regulator on the original alternator cooked the battery in a way that damaged it but leaves it still testing "good"?
Worse, could it have damaged the car electronics in a way that would cause these symptoms?
I've checked my cables, connections and fuses and they all look good.
Thanks!
After I got the turbo in I bought a new battery and installed it. Car started and ran great for a day then died for no apparent reason.
Was able to restart the car after some long cranking but then oil light and warning chime came on. Stopped the car and checked the oil. Restarted car. Oil light came on as well as traction control and steering wheel lights. Decided it was probably electrical not oil and drove to parts store. They tested and said voltage regulator on alternator was shot.
Installed new alternator. Car started easily but battery light on. No other lights or warnings.
Took back to store and they tested it & said new alternator was bad. Battery tested good but "needs charge".
Got another alternator and installed it. Same thing. Battery light on.
Tested first new alternator that was "bad" in the car but it tested good on the bench!
So I'm thinking the second new alternator, which tests bad in the car, is probably ok. But I'm only getting a little over 12 volts with the engine running.
Any ideas? Is it possible that the blown voltage regulator on the original alternator cooked the battery in a way that damaged it but leaves it still testing "good"?
Worse, could it have damaged the car electronics in a way that would cause these symptoms?
I've checked my cables, connections and fuses and they all look good.
Thanks!