p0wer
Veteran Member
- Joined
- May 21, 2009
- Location
- Jyvaskyla, Finland
- TDI
- Golf 3 -94 1Z 377hp, Golf 3 Cabrio 4-Motion 1.8T 620hp, Golf 3 Syncro 2.9 VR6 HX52, Bora AJM 4-Motion 2260vk +120% Firad, Passat 3B Syncro AFN 2260vk
Hi Guys!
After some random posts to this forum, I think it´s time to introduce myself better. I am writing from Jyvaskyla, Finland, 136 000 resident city on middle of our small country. I am working with my own online store for car parts. Happily we have quite active, informative, and these days could even say, professional small bunch of people on TDI tuning on our country, so it has helped a lot for this hobby development.
I´ve been into tdi´s for probably 7 years now and mostly specialized for the older VE´s, built and adjusted few tdi engines past the time, and got few important friends from local forums who has shared this hobby with me.
Golf Stage 1 first start after 2 weeks of building. Lets return for it after small introducing.
I´ve build one VW Taro on probably years 2007-2009 ( Same car as Toyota Hilux ) with 2.4 Diesel engine and Holset HX35. It had bit over 200hp and 400Nm on it, but wasn´t really happy for old diesel engine with mechanical pump.
Taro dyno: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lE773ii6d7k
Quickly made an new engine for it too after several piston problems.
Sold this car out on 2012 as I remember, and never going back to Toyotas.
On 2009 i bought an Seat Cordoba -99 with AHU engine for daily use where I installed generally recommended bigger aftermarket parts what I heard and red they would be a key for happiness. Well, they kinda were. I Installed 2056V, then GT2260V then new GTB2260VK, 11mm IP, Ultime 2 nozzles, 3" exhaust, 450x300mm IC, NPS head, grinded cam, oil cooler, W/M, longer 5th, and some small other small modifications and dynoed 251hp out from it and drove 241,2km/h on standing mile. Bottom end was stock and bit over 500kkm driven when I sold it out later. I also started get the hang on programming ECU on myself for these older ones, so basically I was able to do every software modifications what is needed by myself or by my friends.
I only have one bad video from Seat from standiong mile, where i had problems with underbody protectors on high speed: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V4bJF-bWr3Y
2012 I bought very mint, red Golf Mk3 TDi with 1Z engine, Holset HE221W, Ultime 2, 11mm, cam, and other basic tune ups, where i found about same numbers (260hp or so) than dynoed from Seat. Kinda feel embrassed that i built (and drove) Seat for a years, and this made slightly better dyno sheet with veery simple modifications. Sold it out on 2013. I liked WG turbo better than VNT and mk3 chassis a lot, so later i was thinking to buy more cheaper and uglier car for testing purposes that i do not need be pity for making chassis changes or using grinding machines and ruin too good car. I was heading for simple and quick but effective modifications, and got some friends interested from the project too.
Video from my old Golf 3: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OkcwynKsp30
After few years and tens of different kind of TDI tunes and experience i was heading for bigger numbers and better speed on standing mile. Sold Seat too, and 2013 winter I bought cheap ( almost free ) 400kkm+ driven stock Golf Mk3 for a new tune, where i was thinking to approac tuning from different directions than usual and I do not do any extra than needed for heading good numbers, handling and use on street. Car had original unopened 1.9 1Z engine on it, working fine. Car itself was enough "ugly", just what i was looking for. Although, it had AC, cruise, Eberspaecher, electric roof window, all el. windows, and later bought Vento leather seats and made light sound insulation, so small bit for a comfort too.
This was my daily on 2013 winter, and I started to make stage 1 tune for this car on spring 2014. After working 1 week on carage with my 4 friends, and another week and few days by myself, here´s what I got out after many nights spent on carage, on early dynoday morning 4AM:
On this point, let´s go few days back where we started. On 2014 spring I bought all parts what is needed to built up an powerful engine with small budget, and also whole car needed to be built in few weeks so we needed to save time too. So basically budget was about 3000USD, and there was work hours from about 2 weeks to make all together so engine removing from it´s place wasn´t really an option. It wasn´t needed that much too since we had another base engine where to make header arrangements and others. Happily, I had few very important friend helping me to build this interesting project for one week, built would not been succeeded without these friends.
Here´s an list, what parts we used for this engine:
-Unopened 1Z bottom end with dropped CR and deeper valve hollows
-Engine and tranny turned towards a bit with washers
-Holset HX35 super, comp 54/77mm and turb 55/65mm 8cm2 single entry
-Modified flipped AFN header with 1" spacer from head
-38mm Tial copy WG to EGR flange
-0.341mm H-flox ( first version )
-11mm 107J IP
-Head porting by my friend and bigger valves from NPS
-Grinded cam from original ( 9,8mm lift as i remember )
-ARP head bolts
-450x300x76mm Chinese IC
-Devilsown water injection with #10 nozzle ( I am working as DO importer to Finland now )
-2.5" boost pipes
-3.5" side exhaust with one big and one small silencer and V-band connectors
-Carter fuel pump
-Universal bigger fuel filter
-Universal cheap "free flow" air filter
-12/10mm fuel lines and modified fuel sender unit for bigger pipes
-Innovate MTX-L Wideband
-Auber instruments fast EGT probe with very cheap chinese EGT display
-Changed original 02A to 02J for better shift feel, and raised shifter upside of tunnel for making more space for exhaust silencer and have shifter upper too. One of the best modifications on this car for driving feel!
-228mm Sachs SRE pressure plate, SRE release bearing, normal Golf VR6 organic disc, original flywheel.
-MSA15 Ecu from 6K Cordoba replacing original 8bit ECU
-4 bar MAP
-Tuningart coilovers
-H/R 22mm(FR) and 25mm(RE) Anti roll bars
-TT Audi solid rubber bushings on front struts and poly bushes on rear axle.
OEM rod bolts costs as much as working bottom end, so we saved lot of time and money that we didn´t needed to disassemble whole engine for piston modification, that´s why we modified pistons on their place.
I´we experienced stock bottom´s are quite robust since I haven´t got any bigger damages excluding normal worn even after very heavy use on tracks and lots of hard driving. Main thing is to tune properly without too much of pressure or heat at wrong place, and simply _listening_ and _reading_ how engine performs, good tune will give you good numbers and durability. So, i was thinking to go with original slightly modified parts to find out the limits for stock parts. Also stock bottom ends are easy to have and they cost nothing if it will suffer damages some day. I hope, it will be beautiful once this happens.
Do you like it? Stay tuned for next chapter.
After some random posts to this forum, I think it´s time to introduce myself better. I am writing from Jyvaskyla, Finland, 136 000 resident city on middle of our small country. I am working with my own online store for car parts. Happily we have quite active, informative, and these days could even say, professional small bunch of people on TDI tuning on our country, so it has helped a lot for this hobby development.
I´ve been into tdi´s for probably 7 years now and mostly specialized for the older VE´s, built and adjusted few tdi engines past the time, and got few important friends from local forums who has shared this hobby with me.
Golf Stage 1 first start after 2 weeks of building. Lets return for it after small introducing.
I´ve build one VW Taro on probably years 2007-2009 ( Same car as Toyota Hilux ) with 2.4 Diesel engine and Holset HX35. It had bit over 200hp and 400Nm on it, but wasn´t really happy for old diesel engine with mechanical pump.
Taro dyno: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lE773ii6d7k
Quickly made an new engine for it too after several piston problems.
Sold this car out on 2012 as I remember, and never going back to Toyotas.
On 2009 i bought an Seat Cordoba -99 with AHU engine for daily use where I installed generally recommended bigger aftermarket parts what I heard and red they would be a key for happiness. Well, they kinda were. I Installed 2056V, then GT2260V then new GTB2260VK, 11mm IP, Ultime 2 nozzles, 3" exhaust, 450x300mm IC, NPS head, grinded cam, oil cooler, W/M, longer 5th, and some small other small modifications and dynoed 251hp out from it and drove 241,2km/h on standing mile. Bottom end was stock and bit over 500kkm driven when I sold it out later. I also started get the hang on programming ECU on myself for these older ones, so basically I was able to do every software modifications what is needed by myself or by my friends.
I only have one bad video from Seat from standiong mile, where i had problems with underbody protectors on high speed: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V4bJF-bWr3Y
2012 I bought very mint, red Golf Mk3 TDi with 1Z engine, Holset HE221W, Ultime 2, 11mm, cam, and other basic tune ups, where i found about same numbers (260hp or so) than dynoed from Seat. Kinda feel embrassed that i built (and drove) Seat for a years, and this made slightly better dyno sheet with veery simple modifications. Sold it out on 2013. I liked WG turbo better than VNT and mk3 chassis a lot, so later i was thinking to buy more cheaper and uglier car for testing purposes that i do not need be pity for making chassis changes or using grinding machines and ruin too good car. I was heading for simple and quick but effective modifications, and got some friends interested from the project too.
Video from my old Golf 3: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OkcwynKsp30
After few years and tens of different kind of TDI tunes and experience i was heading for bigger numbers and better speed on standing mile. Sold Seat too, and 2013 winter I bought cheap ( almost free ) 400kkm+ driven stock Golf Mk3 for a new tune, where i was thinking to approac tuning from different directions than usual and I do not do any extra than needed for heading good numbers, handling and use on street. Car had original unopened 1.9 1Z engine on it, working fine. Car itself was enough "ugly", just what i was looking for. Although, it had AC, cruise, Eberspaecher, electric roof window, all el. windows, and later bought Vento leather seats and made light sound insulation, so small bit for a comfort too.
This was my daily on 2013 winter, and I started to make stage 1 tune for this car on spring 2014. After working 1 week on carage with my 4 friends, and another week and few days by myself, here´s what I got out after many nights spent on carage, on early dynoday morning 4AM:
On this point, let´s go few days back where we started. On 2014 spring I bought all parts what is needed to built up an powerful engine with small budget, and also whole car needed to be built in few weeks so we needed to save time too. So basically budget was about 3000USD, and there was work hours from about 2 weeks to make all together so engine removing from it´s place wasn´t really an option. It wasn´t needed that much too since we had another base engine where to make header arrangements and others. Happily, I had few very important friend helping me to build this interesting project for one week, built would not been succeeded without these friends.
Here´s an list, what parts we used for this engine:
-Unopened 1Z bottom end with dropped CR and deeper valve hollows
-Engine and tranny turned towards a bit with washers
-Holset HX35 super, comp 54/77mm and turb 55/65mm 8cm2 single entry
-Modified flipped AFN header with 1" spacer from head
-38mm Tial copy WG to EGR flange
-0.341mm H-flox ( first version )
-11mm 107J IP
-Head porting by my friend and bigger valves from NPS
-Grinded cam from original ( 9,8mm lift as i remember )
-ARP head bolts
-450x300x76mm Chinese IC
-Devilsown water injection with #10 nozzle ( I am working as DO importer to Finland now )
-2.5" boost pipes
-3.5" side exhaust with one big and one small silencer and V-band connectors
-Carter fuel pump
-Universal bigger fuel filter
-Universal cheap "free flow" air filter
-12/10mm fuel lines and modified fuel sender unit for bigger pipes
-Innovate MTX-L Wideband
-Auber instruments fast EGT probe with very cheap chinese EGT display
-Changed original 02A to 02J for better shift feel, and raised shifter upside of tunnel for making more space for exhaust silencer and have shifter upper too. One of the best modifications on this car for driving feel!
-228mm Sachs SRE pressure plate, SRE release bearing, normal Golf VR6 organic disc, original flywheel.
-MSA15 Ecu from 6K Cordoba replacing original 8bit ECU
-4 bar MAP
-Tuningart coilovers
-H/R 22mm(FR) and 25mm(RE) Anti roll bars
-TT Audi solid rubber bushings on front struts and poly bushes on rear axle.
OEM rod bolts costs as much as working bottom end, so we saved lot of time and money that we didn´t needed to disassemble whole engine for piston modification, that´s why we modified pistons on their place.
I´we experienced stock bottom´s are quite robust since I haven´t got any bigger damages excluding normal worn even after very heavy use on tracks and lots of hard driving. Main thing is to tune properly without too much of pressure or heat at wrong place, and simply _listening_ and _reading_ how engine performs, good tune will give you good numbers and durability. So, i was thinking to go with original slightly modified parts to find out the limits for stock parts. Also stock bottom ends are easy to have and they cost nothing if it will suffer damages some day. I hope, it will be beautiful once this happens.
Do you like it? Stay tuned for next chapter.
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