Prolonged Driving With Bad Turbo Actuatoy and Constant Low Power

Prolonged Driving With Bad Turbo Actuator and Constant Low Power

I have had constant low power for 14 months now and have been driving the car anyways, but taking it easy. The turbo actuator rusted out and I only get 3lbs of boost. I'm going to be replacing the actuator soon. Was wondering if driving it sans turbo for this long would cause any lasting damage or clog the turbo vanes? What else should I replace/look out for while I'm down there?

"What else should I replace/look out for while I'm down there?"

Snakes, watch out for snakes! Oh, sorry, you mean down under your car

There's TIME and then there's USE (kms). Fourteen months if only used a bit is unlikely to be an issue. But... if you racked up 100k miles then there could be an issue. Anyway...

With a new actuator rod you should be able to test whether the vanes are able to move freely: others would likely state that you can test w/o the actuator. If there's a problem here you could look to do the oven-cleaner treatment on the turbo: google it.

Might want to disconnect the lower IC pipe and make sure you haven't pooled up a bunch of oil (which would be looking to take advantage of any sudden revival of the turbo function [ran across a guy whose uncle had replace his turbo only to then encounter a runaway due to pooled oil in the IC]).

wizard_of_koz said:

I have had constant low power for 14 months now and have been driving the car anyways, but taking it easy. The turbo actuator rusted out and I only get 3lbs of boost. I'm going to be replacing the actuator soon. Was wondering if driving it sans turbo for this long would cause any lasting damage or clog the turbo vanes? What else should I replace/look out for while I'm down there?

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I recently purchased an 03 Golf TDI with 275,000 kms that was very low on power and had been for quite some time.

This car had the same issue with the rusted out and non working VNT actuator, but the previous owner had just had the VNT actuator replaced at a VW dealer. The new actuator didn't help...the car was still low on power. (This is when he gave up and sold the car to me).

Turns out, the VNT mechanism in the turbo was also bad. I could barely move it at first....and when I got it to move, it was stiff and notchy. I'm no expert, but I expect the VNT mechanism in my turbo failed/stuck because it wasn't being used for a long time. If it were me, I'd check to make sure the VNT lever moves nice and freely before replacing just the VNT actuator. If you end up needing a new turbo, it comes with a shiny new actuator anyway.

Before I upgraded to a 17/22, my vnt-15 overboosted,underboosted and sometimes even worked, Those turbos are very prone to the vnt mechanism fouling not to mention actuator problems. Best to get it off and thoroughly check and clean the vnt. The 4-18 check usually tells the tale but even it can miss the problem if the mechanism is dirty and slow to move.

Pull the actuator off, the vane "arm" should flop up and down without resistance-if it takes some effort remove the turbo and either replace the vanes assembly or work it free-depends on what the problem is-sometimes carbon buildup sometimes they are warped from heat (which cannot be fixed without new parts). Check for a full stroke too not just half range. Most of the time you are better off replacing the turbo and saving the time of trying to fix it. Otherwise what else could be wrong from long term limp mode? Lots of carbon build up in the egr cooler, pipes, intake manifold, cylinder head from low power output. A serious cleaning is probably in order which goes hand in hand with turbo removal. The turbo comes off from above very easily, 1-2 hour job. Use heat on the rusty fasteners and quench with water. Not much needed for parts mostly metal gaskets. Be careful with the oil feed pipe to the turbo, work it before the line twists off with the nut.

Rembrant said:

................................ If it were me, I'd check to make sure the VNT lever moves nice and freely before replacing just the VNT actuator. If you end up needing a new turbo, it comes with a shiny new actuator anyway.

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^this
You won't damage anything, but it will be more likely the vane mechanism freezes up.

clacker said:

Pull the actuator off, the vane "arm" should flop up and down without resistance-if it takes some effort remove the turbo and either replace the vanes assembly or work it free-depends on what the problem is-sometimes carbon buildup sometimes they are warped from heat (which cannot be fixed without new parts). Check for a full stroke too not just half range. Most of the time you are better off replacing the turbo and saving the time of trying to fix it. Otherwise what else could be wrong from long term limp mode? Lots of carbon build up in the egr cooler, pipes, intake manifold, cylinder head from low power output. A serious cleaning is probably in order which goes hand in hand with turbo removal. The turbo comes off from above very easily, 1-2 hour job. Use heat on the rusty fasteners and quench with water. Not much needed for parts mostly metal gaskets. Be careful with the oil feed pipe to the turbo, work it before the line twists off with the nut.

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That's all very good advice imho.

I was screwin' around with the stuck turbo on my 03 when I dragged it home....then I bought a used turbo and decided not to use it, and I finally ended up buying a new Mahle turbo. For a brand new turbo, the price is pretty good in Canada. I've put 6k on it so far and it's working very well.

As mentioned, there are so many other potential causes of low power. My 03 Golf had so many things wrong with it, it's a wonder it even started, let alone had the ability to move under it's own power. Intake plugged, EGR valve and cooler plugged, timing retarded off the chart, faulty MAF, rotten vacuum lines, and a fuel filter with 225k kms on it...lol.

UhOh said:

Might want to disconnect the lower IC pipe and make sure you haven't pooled up a bunch of oil (which would be looking to take advantage of any sudden revival of the turbo function [ran across a guy whose uncle had replace his turbo only to then encounter a runaway due to pooled oil in the IC]).

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This is the most important thing to look out for. Running low boost for extended periods of time will result in oil collecting in your intercooler. You need to drain this periodically.

As others suggested, unbolt the actuator and make sure the lever arm moves freely.