Injection pump seals??

Dieseltoys

Vendor
Joined
Apr 2, 2004
Location
San Antonio, Tx
TDI
Toyota Diesel
Anyone have a good link or website which discusses rebuilding the 1.6 injection pump or at least replacing a couple seals? Mine leaks so bad in the morning, it wont even start because of the absence of fuel.
 

BioDiesel

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 29, 2001
Location
CT
TDI
'98 Jetta
My website has info for the 1.9 engine. Go to the link in my sig. and search for "LEAK!"
 

athar

Well-known member
Joined
May 4, 2003
Location
Belgium, Europe
TDI
ALH
Every 1.6D engine I had in the past had a leaking dieselpump. Never had problems starting though and I think you might have a problem with your glowplugs.
But you are right assuming the bad starting can be caused by the leaks.

I have replaced those seals before and there is a repairkit for the throttle lever but I don't recall the partnumber.

Don't know if this helps

[ QUOTE ]
Leaking Injector Pump Cure Most older VW diesels I've seen use the Bosch fuel injection pump, though some use the CAV system. The problems I've seen with the injection pumps is that they begin leaking fuel either from the pulley shaft, throttle shaft, or cold start lever shaft whether caused by high mileage or the low sulphur bilgewater being sold as diesel fuel these days. By far the most common leak (and most damaging)is from the pulley shaft seal. A leak at this point quickly contaminates the rubber drivebelt causing premature failure of the belt which can destroy the motor if not corrected before breakage occurs. On my 1981 Rabbit diesel L, the original fuel pump began leaking badly at the pulley shaft seal. I bought a salvage yard pump which had the same problem, and then another junk pump which did not work at all. Since a new VW pump costs $1,300.00, a rebuilt unit runs in the neighborhood of $400.00, and even a junk yard unit fetches $150.00, I figured that there had to be a better way to fix a simple leak on an otherwise perfectly functioning pump. There is! On the Bosch pumps (at least from 1977 to 1984) the pulley shaft seal measures 28mm OD, 17mm ID and 7mm in width. Take a screwdriver and pop out the old leaking seal taking care not to scratch the shaft or the pump body. Look carefuly for the seal number which needs considerable magnification to read. A typical number will read "Kaco 8 DF17.28.7 VOT". Use this number even if you damaged the seal numbers during removal. No go to a bearing warehouse, or to a rubber and gasket and get a replacement seal. The reference number for this seal is Chicago Rawhide 6610 (metal body) or 6614 (rubber body). Either seal works fine, but make sure the seal lip is rated R, P or V which means the seal will withstand diesel fuel. A typical 6614 replacement seal is "CR 17x28x7 HMS4 R". Using a brass hammer and suitable sized deep well socket, drive the new seal fully into the seat on the pump housing. Put the thing back together and viola!....your pump will work as well as ever while leaking nary a drop of fuel. I had one salvage yard "guru" tell me that the seal would not work since Chicago Rawhide seals are not rated for high pressure. However, the pulley shaft seal is not exposed to high pressure. It is at the low pressure intake end....the high pressure side of the pump is at the outlets on the far end. Trust me.....the fix works. And, all for a paltry $3.95. If your Bosch pump is leaking, try this simple fix, you'll be glad you did! And P.S., if you ever have reason to take the timing belt cover off a VW diesel engine, leave the damn thing off. Since the VW diesel is an interference engine (meaning it self destructs upon belt breakage), you'll want to keep an eye on the condition of the belt without having a piece of tin hiding a future catastrophe from your eyes. A little bit of diesel leakage goes a long way in ruining a rubber drive belt in only a few thousand miles.
Thomas E. Jones <tejones@net-serv.com>
Nashville, TN USA - Monday, November 20, 2000 at 18:11:41 (PST)



[/ QUOTE ]
 

runonbeer

Maintenance EnthusiastVendor
Joined
Apr 15, 2002
Location
Austin, TX/Chapel Hill, NC
TDI
'00 Golf 02M, '10 Golf 02E, '02 UTE 02M
It leaks at the cold start lever. Thats just an o-ring right?
still gotta pull the pump though, I'd imagine.

the "no start" is definitely being caused by the fuel leak. It is a visible drip every couple of seconds. I really wish we would have taken care of this problem when we had the pump off (one of the three times we had it off /images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif )

pooie /images/graemlins/mad.gif
 

athar

Well-known member
Joined
May 4, 2003
Location
Belgium, Europe
TDI
ALH
Yes it's just an O-ring on the cold start lever and to replace it, it's best to dismount the pump first.

Good luck
 

ranagon

Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2016
Location
Arizona
TDI
'01 ALH Beetle; '02 alh wagon.1, '02 alh wagon.2, '03 ALH wagon; '04 BEW wagon, '05 BEW wagon.1, '05 BEW wagon.2
New addition to an ancient thread. I'm assuming that pump issues will live on for as long as there are old VW diesels on the road.

I've got a number of VW diesels, IDI and TDI.

I'm live in Arizona, but last summer I drove my 1.6 (turbo with a NA injection pump) Vanagon to Big Sur (before it slid into the ocean).

I had built the engine, and was familiar with it inside and out.

Driving over to CA, the van seemed to be loosing power. Like it was starving for fuel.

By the time Highway 1 started to get REALLY hilly north of Cambria, I couldn't maintain 20 mph going uphill.

But we had reservations, so we slogged on. After several days camping, we headed south, over the same hills. Top speed, even on the flat and level was less than 40 mph. Going uphill was 15 mph, give or take. (I just didn't look in the rear view mirror.)

Again, it felt like fuel starvation.

It was running smoothly, but low on power. All I could think of was that it was sucking air through the injection pump input shaft seal.

So we stopped in Cambria at a NAPA, and I cobbled together an external electric lift pump to provide positive pressure to the injection pump.

VOILA! It worked, and I drove back to Arizona with all the power you'd expect from a 1.6 diesel in a 2-ton brick.

But the point is ... a leaking input shaft seal on a VE pump can leak air and produce fuel starvation and LOW power.

I just bought an ALH station wagon with a variety of problems, including low power.

I'll update this if it turns out that a pump seal leak was the problem there also.
 

valvecrusher

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2008
Location
DosCirclos
TDI
'96 Passat, '00 Jetta
14 yo Zombie thread!!

woo-hoo!!


Be sure to post up your solution, and include the seals you sourced, and where to buy them!

my EcoDiesel is ready to get back on the road!
(leaking pump most likely in my case)
 
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