ARP Head Studs

robnitro · Sep 25, 2014

turbodan62 said:
raceware head studs are the best .. this guy makes replacements for the Dilvar porsche head studs that are junk . He said never use a click tourque wrench , only a beam wrench ! Tdan

Agreed, if I used a click one, I might not have known the bad hardware store 12.9 bolt was stretching too soon and maybe break it (or break on removal!)

Geordi · Sep 27, 2014

I tested my used click wrench against both a beam wrench and a Snap-On certified click wrench (for an airline mechanic) and it came out bang-on against both. I have no problem with the tool as it has to be certified to be sold originally anyway. Now if you treat them rough, that is another thing. But one thing they offer is precision that a beam wrench can never match.

Meanwhile - ARP studs all the way and always. Their engineering is superb, and I've never had a problem with their studs on any of the vehicles I've installed them into. (Jeep Liberty CRDs)

robnitro · Sep 28, 2014

I know a click wrench can be accurate. But without a dial, how do you know if the torque is climbing steadily, or in my case w the 12.9 bolt, climbing slower and slower (at the moment of stretch)? All this can happen way before it clicks...

I guess where I'm coming from is sometimes you can't tell at these high torque values until it's too late.

Rub87 · Sep 28, 2014

The key is to torque it down slow but steady. And in one time, if you stop just before reaching the torque the lubrication layer is compromisd and you will reach the torque on the next attempt without achieving the real effective compression torque/force (if that makes sense to anyone)

jackbombay · Sep 28, 2014

Rub87 said:
The key is to torque it down slow but steady. And in one time, if you stop just before reaching the torque the lubrication layer is compromisd and you will reach the torque on the next attempt without achieving the real effective compression torque/force (if that makes sense to anyone)

Yep, the wrench needs to click while the wrench is moving.

Yblocker · Sep 28, 2014

I'll be installing a rebuilt head pretty soon on a 1Z TDI that already has ARP studs. They can be re-torqued multiple times right? And they go to 125 ft/lbs? I have a 30 year old click type wrench. Wonder if it should be calibrated or if would be cheaper to buy a new one?

oldpoopie · Sep 28, 2014

Most important thing I'd say is if you are tightening to 125, use a calibrated torque wrench that has a range of like 50 to 250 or so. You don't want to use one that limits out at like 130ish.... Stay away from the limits to stay more precise.

Geordi · Oct 1, 2014

Home Depot sells a 30" wrench for $80, it goes to 250lb-ft. I've only ever had it over 140 once, when trying to stress-fail a TTY bolt.

FYI: I despise TTY bolts, ARP studs are MUCH more predictable. Yes, you can re-torque them as many times as you'd like, their 'elastic' range is enormous compared to the strength of the block and head.

The same studs are used for the ALH engine as for the Jeep Liberty CRD.

Yblocker · Oct 1, 2014

I wound up with a CDI 30-250 ft/lb from Amazon for $142. Guess I have an expensive wrench now...They even sell the ARP thread dope!

Kristofk · Oct 1, 2014

So what are the ARP head studs for?

Stock is not good enough or what? max hp? do they stretch too much over time or what?

Yblocker · Oct 1, 2014

In my case I originally used them to try and solve a weak head gasket that allowed the cooling system to over pressure. I replaced the head bolts one by one. It did work, but now I'm rebuilding the head and freshening the lower end so I want to use them again.

vanbcguy · Oct 3, 2014

Stock bolts are good for stock boost. They will work well for moderately increased boost but eventually they can't hold it back any further. The ARP studs are considerably stronger and will provide much more clamping force.

robnitro · Oct 3, 2014

Yep , and there are factory stronger bolts, but unfortunately they are longer as they are for the PD150 so they will have to be cut and that's not fun on hardened steel!

Also they cost around 80-90 shipped (not super cheap like the stock headbolts)... plus they aren't reusable.

Geordi · Oct 3, 2014

TTY bolts just suck. ARP are highly engineered, and their performance is predictable and consistent every time. No questions about their strength, they will do the job and excel at it.

bhodgkiss · Oct 3, 2014

Hmm was thinking of selling my new ARP studs but may keep these now

turbovan+tdi · Oct 14, 2014

Anyone have pics of the Cosworth ones? Are the ARP's broached? Cosworth broached? TIA.

TDIJetta99 · Oct 26, 2014

Cosworth studs are a smaller diameter on the smooth portion compared to the tdi specific arp studs..

Sent from my Galaxy S4

ceb468 · Oct 23, 2016

I have a 2006 Jetta TDI (BRM engine code) and I am having a difficult time finding an upgraded head bolt or stud kit. I would prefer to go with a head stud kit if there is a drop it replacement. I started loosing coolant, in the cylinder I would suspect, because there is none in the oil. I am running around 20 psi boost.
I already bought an ARP 204-4706 kit that obviously will not fit and am surprise that ARP does not make a drop in kit for this application. Is there a PD150 Bolts that will fit? Parts numbers and/or links would be a tremendous help.

Fix_Until_Broke · Oct 23, 2016

Let's back up a few steps and figure out the root cause of the problem here. 20 psi boost should NOT cause any head gasket issues, nor require upgraded head studs.

what power goal are you trying to achieve?
What modifications do you have to try and reach your goal?

ceb468 · Oct 23, 2016

I cannot think of any other explanation of where the coolant could go. If you can make some suggestions of what else to look at to help me solve this I am definitely all ears.
As far as future upgrades, I am looking to go with a Kerma K3 turbo, Colt stage 3 cam, and the other recommended items for this combination from Kerma (tune,inj, etc.). I currently have a Malone stage 2 with the Snow Performance injection. I ordered this car from the dealer new and have driven it since '06. It has 127k miles (new 100k timing belt kit, w/water pump at 95k installed by a VW dealer). I just recently started to play around with the performance upgrades otherwise it has been a commuter car that was lightly driven and still has the original front brakes.
Thanks for the reply and input by the way.

ceb468 · Oct 23, 2016

It is loosing about 16 oz of water at around 5 mi of normal city driving. This reservoir bottle now has clear water in it rather than an R12 coolant tint. Point is, the water is clear, no soot, no oil. I drive about 5mi/day in the city. It started loosing coolant about a week ago.

ceb468 · Oct 23, 2016

Looks like it is probably the EGR cooler.

Fix_Until_Broke · Oct 23, 2016

Looks like you've solved it yourself!

mk1-83 · Oct 26, 2016

I found a 14.9 class bolts maybe good for headbolts.

only drawback are the cost around 28 euro a bolt

ceb468 · Nov 6, 2016

mk1-83: I ended up buying the PD150 bolts from Darkside (DSD1044). They should do the job and they were only $25(GBP). If I need to remove the head for some reason I can always buy another set for that price.

ceb468 · Nov 6, 2016

Fix Until Broke: It was the heater hose. The one closest to the cat at the EGR cooler end. It was swelled and cracked just beyond what appeared to be a thin insulation sleeve on that hose. The EGR cooler on the car looks like new and has no rust or corrosion like the rest of the car. I ended up buying straight heater hose, hose clamps, and (3) 90 degree elbows from the local parts store. Routing the hose with the elbows worked out perfectly. I then wrapped the heater hose closest to the cat and the EGR cooler vacuum can with header insulation. Then secured the insulation in several locations with mechanics wire. Should of taken some photos. Looks great and worked like a charm.

rotaecho · Dec 30, 2016

So, I'm rebuilding a used AHU I have that I got from Quality German Auto. To get my ride moving since, the long-block I built is having issues that I need to debug.

I've stripped the used QGA AHU down. I don't have the money/resources to do anything with the head (shaving,etc). This engine supposedly has 85K and ran, but figured I'd try to do any prevenative maintenance while it's on the stand.

I obtained some ARP 204-4706 which appear to be the newer TDI specific ones to 125 torque.

The real question I have is; should I change the gasket out too? I have a Victor Reinz one here to put in, but I keep reading mixed reviews about doing it.

Thanks!

-Will

turbovan+tdi · Dec 31, 2016

rotaecho said:
So, I'm rebuilding a used AHU I have that I got from Quality German Auto. To get my ride moving since, the long-block I built is having issues that I need to debug.

I've stripped the used QGA AHU down. I don't have the money/resources to do anything with the head (shaving,etc). This engine supposedly has 85K and ran, but figured I'd try to do any prevenative maintenance while it's on the stand.

I obtained some ARP 204-4706 which appear to be the newer TDI specific ones to 125 torque.

The real question I have is; should I change the gasket out too? I have a Victor Reinz one here to put in, but I keep reading mixed reviews about doing it.

Thanks!

-Will

You don't know the history, its in front of you, head gaskets are cheap, replace it.

turbodieseldyke · Aug 20, 2017

It would be nice if someone on Page 1 of this thread could edit their post, to direct first-time readers to Post#746, so they don't waste their time pricing out Cosworth parts. Or reading about them.

ARP Head Studs

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