azianjiu
Well-known member
Hey, has anyone tried the trunk fix that is in the youtube video?
Guys i had same problem With my MKIV Bora 2001, first the whole mechanism was broken with a faulty actuator too, and the latch two lines were welded together by the previous owner to just pop up the latch by the Key, that was annoying cause when i got the car it had only one key, (do not have the FOB), meaning each time visiting a hotel or Shopping mall i had to turn off the ignition and hand the guy the key in order to open the trunk. and personally i really do not like rubbish temp fixes, so below is the Old Mechanism,Hi folks,
Today my Jetta's trunk won't unlatch. I've tried both the driver's door switch, and the key directly in the trunk lock. The lock mechanism makes its usual brief whump sound minus the "plunk" of the latch popping open. No failure codes in the central locks control unit.
Any tips on getting the trunk open so I can get a look at the latch mechanism?
Thanks
That's what I was thinking, my factory one made it 190k on a 2004. What's the part number for the factory part? I can't find it on-line.All I can say is that guy is really proud of his little lexan part.
At first I thought you glued the broken tab back on, and I was thinking, I bet it would break off again. So I took a look. Now I see you got a big wad of JB Weld for the plunger to push against. No way that will come loose. That is slick. Not pretty, but it is hidden. I think you saved about $40.I know this thread is old as hell but I figured I'd share my experience.
Went to the hardware store and picked up a tube of JB weld putty.
Went to town. Problem solved.
http://youtu.be/aG8w4wmrGTg
I found this thread and they claimed a broken wire in the harness at the trunk hinge. I just went out and cut my rubber sheathing to expose the wires and they are correct. I have one broken wire and the other four have the insulation cracked. I have not tried to fix it yet as I am supposed to be working from home today. I am just doing this in between jobs. I suggest you take a look at yours.Today I went under the dash and attempted to find the #79 relay. It's not there.
Then I checked the electronic version of the Bentley manual and discovered the rear lid unlock relay is NOT in the relay panel at position 2, relay #79 but is associated with the "Comfort Module". I see a black box above the relay panel that must be that.
Does this box come apart? Are there discrete relays inside it? It is a PITA to get to, so I'm asking before I root around for it. It looks like lots of stuff has to be unfastened to get hold of it.
I can get a replacement from a nearby parts-yard, but I'd like some discussion before I start this task. I hate to work upside down under the dash!
I just consulted my Bentley and looked at the 2000 MY ALH wiring diagram. There is a ground wire (connection in driver's door wiring harness) that goes first to the switch in the door that you use to unlock the trunk (wire is .5 mm and brown) and then the ground wire goes to the switch that the key turns (on the driver's inside door pannel) to lock out the trunk release switch (wire is .5 mm and brown/blue). From there, the ground wire (.5 mm green/brown) goes to terminal 21 on the 23-terminal comfort convenience module. The positive power for the trunk motor comes from pin 20 of the 23-pin convenience module and goes to the trunk motor. That wire is .5 mm and blue. The ground for the trunk motor comes from from a ground connection in the rear lid wiring harness.Today I went under the dash and attempted to find the #79 relay. It's not there.
Then I checked the electronic version of the Bentley manual and discovered the rear lid unlock relay is NOT in the relay panel at position 2, relay #79 but is associated with the "Comfort Module". I see a black box above the relay panel that must be that.
Does this box come apart? Are there discrete relays inside it? It is a PITA to get to, so I'm asking before I root around for it. It looks like lots of stuff has to be unfastened to get hold of it.
I can get a replacement from a nearby parts-yard, but I'd like some discussion before I start this task. I hate to work upside down under the dash!
You are correct, a broken wire will not pass current. All that I can tell you is on my car when I took the actuator apart, I basically had a motor all by it's lonesome, and hooked it up the motor would turn all by itself. I would hit the trunk release, either at the switch or the fob, and the motor would stop spinning for a brief second, then start spinning again. When I cut the rubber from around the wire harness, right where it bends when the trunk is closing, I found that one wire was completely broke in two, two wires were being held in place by two or three strands of wire, and the other two wires had cracked insulation.Have already checked for broken wires..NOT. anyhow a broken wire wouldn't pass current.
I have found another thread that discusses the "black-box" called the CCM. It does have relays inside it, but they are PC-board mounted relays, not an easily replacable plug-in thing.
The other thread actually was about doors that wouldn't unlock using the remote actuator, and some folks have replaced the relays.
I haven't found a post that lists the part number of the relays...I guess if you have a spare car and can get this module out to mess with it you can open it and find out what relay you need. Not good to do if it's your driver, and at the moment it's not home either!!
I'm sure someone has found a schematic of this black-box and listed the relays so I'm still hunting. For the time being, I put small things in the trunk thru the back seat to reduce stress on the key module (it takes a lot of grunt to manually work the latch from the outside and I don't want to break the key fob they are SO expensive!).
The old relay, #79, was a 40Amp relay, so obviously there's a substantial current to be carried, but they are available for around $12-15...I am a bit peeved that this "improvement" creats a PITA to repair!!
[ I have a '78 E150 van that has intermittent WW..there is a module that performs this function with a cheap internal relay too. ONCE I bought a replacement module, now I just change the relay and put the extra module on the shelf for the next time. Done this a least 6 times...but the replacemnt module DIDN'T cost $400 either!! These relays are really cheap when purchaced 10 at a time, which I did. ]
Am thinking seriously about straight-wiring the trunk switch to operate from the door and trunk and forget the remote function!! Each time something like this happens I step back further from buying a NEW car...