www.tdiclub.com

Economy - Longevity - Performance
The #1 Source of TDI Information on the Web!
Forums Articles Links Meets
Orders TDI Club Cards TDIFest 2016 Gone, but not forgotten VAG-Com List Unit Conversions TDIClub Chat Thank You




Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKIII-A3/B4 TDIs

VW MKIII-A3/B4 TDIs This is a discussion about MKIII-A3/MkIII Jetta/Golf (<99.5) and B4 Passats (96,97) TDI's. Non TDI related postings will be moved or removed.

Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old July 31st, 2013, 05:16   #16
slam
Veteran Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: San Jose, California
Fuel Economy: 40
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by barryfromvt View Post
Resurrecting this great thread with some info about how i did it, and a question. ... Any ideas??
Sounds like a crossed connection or short to me. Did you use insulated barrel connections or are they bare? if bare, they might have been touching a neighboring pin, causing a short or cross-connection. If one of your connectors had a stray wire outside the barrel and if this wire was touching another pin, this too would cause the issue.

Similarly if the makeshift harness had bare wires touching metal or paint somewhere, you could have been shorting to ground. This would explain the dim lights and poor performance; most of the juice is going straight to ground, only a little is getting to the bulbs.
slam is offline   Reply With Quote
Old August 3rd, 2013, 09:49   #17
TDIL3dad
Veteran Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: N. VA
Default

While surfing German ebay looking at Passat 35i parts I saw several OEM looking trailer hitch farmes, some with B4V rear bumper covers still attached. Many had the wiring harnesses also still present.

Were these OEM?
Did VW offer OEM hitches in the US for B4 / B4V?

I am only familiar with after market hitches and had installed such hitch with no wiring on my B4 to use with a bike rack.
TDIL3dad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old October 10th, 2013, 12:47   #18
TDIDaveNH
Left Lane Coal Roller at Large
 
TDIDaveNH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: North Conway, NH
TDI(s): 1997 Passat
Default

So I’ve decided to scrap my first post and completely revise and update it with what I’ve done recently.

I have found that the BEST way to run trailer lights is by running power from the battery back to the left taillight assembly and using a 5-4 trailer wiring adaptor. Experience has taught me that stealing power form the taillights just blows fuses, causes the car’s lights to function wonky, not to mention the trailer lights as well...if at all. Even the car’s left taillight will appear noticeably dimmer than the one on the right when it does work.

I bought an adaptor from Ebay, but they are available at most trailer stores and even rental truck places I see will carry them. Some will have a lead for power, others will not. We’ll be using the ones WITH power.

OK, so...first order of business is to pull power from the battery, fuse it and get it out back. There may be locations on the fuse block where you can get fused power, but I do not like monkeying with the fuse block at all, besides plug and play replacement of fuses/relays. It’s really not the area I’m good at so I’m not going to suggest it.

I found it easier to run the wire front to back rather than the other way, so starting at the battery, get a 12 ga. wire fuse, splice it onto about 18.5-19 feet of red 12 ga. wire and follow this route. MAKE SURE to leave this DISCONNECTED from the battery while you're running the wire. (I know you know that, but I feel obligated to say it)


It was nice of VW to put that little notch there, like they knew I was coming

Up and around the strut tower


remove the coolant overflow vessel for the next move:


Pierce this and get the wire through, again...thanks VW. This will put you about 1" outboard of the clutch pedal, the insulation behind this spot is already clearanced for wires/whatnot.


Feel free to take liberties with your routing if you find something works better, this way did good for me.


Get the wire behind the left side kick panel and into the door sill/wire chase. I found you don't even have to remove this panel, just remove the one phillips screw, slide it in against the carpet and it'll pop right in.



Next, carefully pry off the entire door sill panel....removing the seat is NOT necessary.


You'll find these wireway stantions under the door sill, they come in handy- there is a spot on each one that is perfect for holding 12ga. wire.


**Continued on next post***
__________________
Per cogo, non per mico (By compression, not by spark)
GLX conversion in Storm Grey- my first TDI engine rides again.

Last edited by TDIDaveNH; May 1st, 2014 at 20:19.
TDIDaveNH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old October 10th, 2013, 12:47   #19
TDIDaveNH
Left Lane Coal Roller at Large
 
TDIDaveNH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: North Conway, NH
TDI(s): 1997 Passat
Default

This is another easy slide-under deal


Next, under here you'll find a pocket where the harness for all the taillights goes trough, you can push the wire through....


....then snake it along the trunk floor sides right on top of the existing harness


Next, remove this fastener and snake the wire around and behind the carpet, up to the light assembly.


Feel free to mount your converter anywhere you like, even next to the hitch outside. I chose this location only because I like connections like this to be out of the weather and soot. Go ahead and run your ground to the taillight mounting stud/nut and start splicing in the individual connections and lastly connect the power.


I'm not going to specify wire colors, because I've found not all manufacturers follow that convention. so, whichever 5-4 converter you end up using, follow the labels they provide for what each wire does, and splice in your VW terminal ends and snap them into the corresponding size/locations here:


As far as the connectors that you'll need are concerned, here's a short list of what you’ll need to interface to the tail light assembly:

(1) 191-972-702 A [2-lead brown connector] *If you want a white connector, change suffix to "E", for black like the rest, drop suffix off entirely.
(1) 191-972-701-D [1-lead blue connector]
(1) 1J0-972-924 [3-lead black connector]
(2) 000-979-133-E [yellow repair wire with slide-in factory crimp-ons]

You'll have to cut both of the yellow wires to produce 4 ends to work with (they come with slide-in terminals on both ends) Cut the length to your taste, but remember to leave yourself enough to work with a butt splice connector or room to solder/shrink wrap whichever you prefer. If the wire ends do not slide deeply into the connectors and seat with a smart little 'click' don't force it! it's in wrong- pull it out and rotate 90 and try again. That's it you've got it. At $8.40 (2011 price) for each wire from the dealer, you'll want to be careful.

It should be noted as well, If you find yourself sourcing the connectors from a donor car's wiring, do not confuse the 1-and 2-lead connector with their larger cousins, 191-972-751 and 191-972-752 respectively. Check against the part numbers referenced above to make sure you've got the correct sized connectors as they are very easy to mistake since they are almost visually identical and also in the case of the 2-lead connector you will find it will not fit the tail light.

Q: So where do I find these connectors if i’m at a salvage yard?
A: In the case of the 3 pin connector, if you’ve found a B4- the button that pops the trunk remotely will have one, under the e-brake console. for the 1 and 2 pin connectors, those can be found hiding behind the fuse block. Also, this is a good time to collect the special crimped wire ends to avoid buying them at the dealership. (I’ve used a used one in the picure above, it’s the brown lead going to the 3 pin connector)


OK, so that's it...we're done....and I mean it this time. Go put a 10amp fuse in by the battery and get towing
__________________
Per cogo, non per mico (By compression, not by spark)
GLX conversion in Storm Grey- my first TDI engine rides again.

Last edited by TDIDaveNH; October 10th, 2013 at 13:38.
TDIDaveNH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old June 13th, 2018, 19:27   #20
TDIDaveNH
Left Lane Coal Roller at Large
 
TDIDaveNH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: North Conway, NH
TDI(s): 1997 Passat
Default

And just like that, the pictures are back. PB came to it's senses...only took them well over a year.
__________________
Per cogo, non per mico (By compression, not by spark)
GLX conversion in Storm Grey- my first TDI engine rides again.
TDIDaveNH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old June 13th, 2018, 21:16   #21
Steve Addy
Veteran Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Iowa
TDI(s): 97 Mk3
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by TDIDaveNH View Post
And just like that, the pictures are back. PB came to it's senses...only took them well over a year.
Glad to see the pics are back, my conversion thread photos are all back and working too!

Steve
__________________
97 Jetta TDI, 90 B3V TDI, 92 MB 300SD

You didn't poison the coffee, did you? Not anymore than I usually do.
Steve Addy is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Super Easy Trailer Hitch Wiring Hatchet Ratchet Upgrades (non TDI Engine related) 10 July 24th, 2014 19:50
Wiring trailer lights on b4 tails? Who's got the pinout? kooyajerms VW MKIII-A3/B4 TDIs 3 May 27th, 2010 18:29
B4 Trailer Wiring Question 914rrr VW MKIII-A3/B4 TDIs 4 October 18th, 2008 20:59
ECU removal made easy! DOCTOR SHUMES TDI Power Enhancements 23 April 9th, 2006 16:24


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 06:04.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright - TDIClub Online LTD - 2017
Contact Us | Privacy Statement | Forum Rules | Disclaimer
TDIClub Online Ltd (TDIClub.com) is not affiliated with the VWoA or VWAG and is supported by contributions from viewers like you.
1996 - 2017, All Rights Reserved
Page generated in 0.14712 seconds with 12 queries
[Output: 86.43 Kb. compressed to 76.66 Kb. by saving 9.77 Kb. (11.31%)]