sriracha
Veteran Member
I purchased the spreader tool and some other tools needed for the job.
Thanks for the tip about the passenger side.
What did you do to your MKIV today?
- Thread starter TDIGAZ
- Start date
I purchased the spreader tool and some other tools needed for the job.
Thanks for the tip about the passenger side.
Rrusse11
Veteran Member
Apropos the recent "tinfoil headliner" comments, check out a recent video
at the Washington Post. The reporter covers the car in tinfoil to combat
data collection. Then gets an expert to hack it.
No response from any of the car companies as what's being collected, or
what they're doing with it.
https://www.washingtonpost.com/
at the Washington Post. The reporter covers the car in tinfoil to combat
data collection. Then gets an expert to hack it.
No response from any of the car companies as what's being collected, or
what they're doing with it.
https://www.washingtonpost.com/
jmodge
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Jun 18, 2015
- Location
- Greenville, MI
- TDI
- 2001 alh Jetta, RC2 w/.205's 5speed daily summer commuter and 2000 alh Jetta 5spd swap, 2" lift, hitch, stage 3 TDtuning w/.216's winter cruiser, 1996 Tacoma ALh
So, they are following me!
gforce1108
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Aug 2, 2006
- Location
- Newburgh, NY
- TDI
- 04 Jetta GLS BEW, 14 Audi A7 V6 TDI, 13 Porsche Cayenne V6 TDI
Didn't like how my 03 was sitting low in the back so I ordered 2 different rear spring sets (Moog wagon and suplex towing). Found out that both original springs were broken so I went with the less aggressive Moog which lifted it 2"
(trying something different with picture hosting)
Before:
After:
(trying something different with picture hosting)
Before:
After:
BobnOH
not-a-mechanic
no pics,Didn't like how my 03 was sitting low in the back so I ordered 2 different rear spring sets (Moog wagon and suplex towing). Found out that both original springs were broken so I went with the less aggressive Moog which lifted it 2"
(trying something different with picture hosting)
Before:
After:
gforce1108
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Aug 2, 2006
- Location
- Newburgh, NY
- TDI
- 04 Jetta GLS BEW, 14 Audi A7 V6 TDI, 13 Porsche Cayenne V6 TDI
I see that using a different browser - I'll find another photo hosting site to link. No more space here.
https://www.amazon.com/photos/shared/y3MB6gEXTn2e5OoRmY15UA.a6UL-JQkt6kptGVs3jN6sU
https://www.amazon.com/photos/shared/_1IClatVTe2tU-PQ02j1aQ.WlfxiZ3pUNCS7xirpT1CIQ
BobnOH
not-a-mechanic
Well I'd say that's an improvement, though the kids would rather you lowered the front a bit.
Rrusse11
Veteran Member
A bit more difficult with our MkIVs, not nearly as connected as the
"new & improved" models. One of the more disturbing things I found
was the logging of phone calls, names, addresses, pictures and email
addys. And this was from the "infotainment" center, only one of the
computers in new cars. No reply from the car companies as to what
data they are collecting, and what they're doing with it.
KrashDH
Top Post Dawg
I didn't see them either.
gforce1108
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Aug 2, 2006
- Location
- Newburgh, NY
- TDI
- 04 Jetta GLS BEW, 14 Audi A7 V6 TDI, 13 Porsche Cayenne V6 TDI
My 04 is lowered and would be my preference! Keeping this wagon stock and putting it up for sale once the 04 is back together.
Let's see if these work:
jmodge
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Jun 18, 2015
- Location
- Greenville, MI
- TDI
- 2001 alh Jetta, RC2 w/.205's 5speed daily summer commuter and 2000 alh Jetta 5spd swap, 2" lift, hitch, stage 3 TDtuning w/.216's winter cruiser, 1996 Tacoma ALh
Nice looking rides, especially for the salt belt
gforce1108
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Aug 2, 2006
- Location
- Newburgh, NY
- TDI
- 04 Jetta GLS BEW, 14 Audi A7 V6 TDI, 13 Porsche Cayenne V6 TDI
I'm trying to find my "before" pics of the 03. Both front fenders were rotted bad at the arches (stupid foam) and the hood had big rust patches from stone chips that hadn't been touched up. I found 3 different people parting out reflex silver Jettas local to get the parts I needed.
Some very light surface rust at the rockers from the years of dirt collected behind the fenders that I cleaned up.
The 04 needs the drivers side fender replaced - the passenger side was covered under warranty (had the shop paint that whole side). I have OEM GLI sideskirts and replica front/rear bumper parts to get installed so I might have the rest of the car painted too.
The underside of both cars is mint - VW does a great job with the rustproofing underneath!
sriracha
Veteran Member
My 04 is lowered and would be my preference!
When you installed the Eibach lowering suspension, did you also install the front OEM spacers or did you leave those out?
The sedan looks great!
gforce1108
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Aug 2, 2006
- Location
- Newburgh, NY
- TDI
- 04 Jetta GLS BEW, 14 Audi A7 V6 TDI, 13 Porsche Cayenne V6 TDI
This one did not have the spacers. I've only run across one or two mkivs with them (assuming you mean the aluminum pucks next to the bearing). The other 5 or 6 I've done did not have them.
This car has had several different suspension systems. Bone stock -> stock springs with Bilstein B4 TCs -> 03 GLI springs with Bilstein B4 TC sports (stiffer springs, but stock height but thought they'd be lower) -> eibach with Koni STR.Ts. I have a rear sway bar ready to install that should work nicely!
Powder Hound
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Oct 25, 1999
- Location
- Under a Bridge, Crestview, FL, USA
- TDI
- '00 Golf 4dr White 5sp, '02 Jettachero 5sp, Wife's '03 NB Platinum Gray auto(!)
priming the injection pump
Back in post 4553, I noted that my injectors were ready to go. I installed them today, and learned a bit about priming an injection pump.
1) Snug up all the injection lines. They don't have to be tight, but they do need to be air-tight.
2) Block each and every return line leakage point. No big deal unless you've had a lot of stuff on the injectors apart.
3) If it was loosened at all, check that little bolt holding the return line banjo fitting on injector #3, and remember it is a tiny bolt that is hollowed so it breaks real easy. Don't try and crank it down. Just barely enough to snug it. I don't know what the torque value is on this thing, but I'll bet it is measured in gram-cms or something equally as tiny.
4. Plug the return line that goes back to the filter if you are vacuuming from the injection pump's hard return line.
And the pump will prime right up. This job would be easy and quick if you had about 8 hands, but I don't. And if there's any leaks anywhere (the 3rd injector return line bolt got me today) you'll be frustrated as you can be, because that air leaks in and spoils the party. Such as a cracked return line (the rubber hoses).
That's my story, and I'm sticking to it.
Cheers,
PH
Oh yeah, the other part of my story is that I got my car started, and the replacement pump I used (I got frustrated with my original pump that wouldn't prime - see above - and used this replacement.
Well.
After it was running I was doing a visual check over and I noticed a little fuel on the backside of the pump. I wiped it up with a paper towel. I started getting the rest of the stuff ready to do a final button up. After about 5 minutes, I check again, and the replacement pump is leaking. I actually saw a tiny set of a few bubbles appearing at the lower part of the quantity adjuster, just above the pooled fuel I had wiped up previously.
I'm a little frustrated now. I AM RIGHT BACK TO WHERE I WAS A MONTH AGO, WHEN I TRIED TO REPLACE THE PUMP HEAD O-RING BECAUSE MY ORIGINAL PUMP WAS LEAKING.
Oh, <bleep>. It has just been that kind of day. What a way to waste a vacation day.
Back in post 4553, I noted that my injectors were ready to go. I installed them today, and learned a bit about priming an injection pump.
1) Snug up all the injection lines. They don't have to be tight, but they do need to be air-tight.
2) Block each and every return line leakage point. No big deal unless you've had a lot of stuff on the injectors apart.
3) If it was loosened at all, check that little bolt holding the return line banjo fitting on injector #3, and remember it is a tiny bolt that is hollowed so it breaks real easy. Don't try and crank it down. Just barely enough to snug it. I don't know what the torque value is on this thing, but I'll bet it is measured in gram-cms or something equally as tiny.
4. Plug the return line that goes back to the filter if you are vacuuming from the injection pump's hard return line.
And the pump will prime right up. This job would be easy and quick if you had about 8 hands, but I don't. And if there's any leaks anywhere (the 3rd injector return line bolt got me today) you'll be frustrated as you can be, because that air leaks in and spoils the party. Such as a cracked return line (the rubber hoses).
That's my story, and I'm sticking to it.
Cheers,
PH
Oh yeah, the other part of my story is that I got my car started, and the replacement pump I used (I got frustrated with my original pump that wouldn't prime - see above - and used this replacement.
Well.
After it was running I was doing a visual check over and I noticed a little fuel on the backside of the pump. I wiped it up with a paper towel. I started getting the rest of the stuff ready to do a final button up. After about 5 minutes, I check again, and the replacement pump is leaking. I actually saw a tiny set of a few bubbles appearing at the lower part of the quantity adjuster, just above the pooled fuel I had wiped up previously.
I'm a little frustrated now. I AM RIGHT BACK TO WHERE I WAS A MONTH AGO, WHEN I TRIED TO REPLACE THE PUMP HEAD O-RING BECAUSE MY ORIGINAL PUMP WAS LEAKING.
Oh, <bleep>. It has just been that kind of day. What a way to waste a vacation day.
Last edited:
Fix_Until_Broke
Top Post Dawg
Powder Hound - Another approach to purging when changing injectors is to do two at a time. Change 2, start the engine for a few seconds, then change the other two.
Doesn't work for an injection pump swap but works well for injectors.
Doesn't work for an injection pump swap but works well for injectors.
Finished up my front end rebuild suspension overhaul. New bilstein shocks/struts, bump stops, bushings, inner and outer tie rods, ball joints, and passenger side spindle which appears to have corrected my positive camber. Also discovered I was slowly leaking coolant from the coolant temp sensor o-ring and fixed that issue as well. Next I'm thinking to swap out my turbo for another one, since it seems to be passing oil. And might as well clean the intake manifold while I'm there anyway.
N519AT
Veteran Member
I’m about to do this to my wagon. Any tips or was there as specific DIY you followed?
I’m doing a set of H&R lowering springs, bilstein shocks/struts all around, bump stops, rear bushings and replacing a tie rod (replaced the other one a few months back).
No DIY just winged it, but I followed all proper torquing procedures. For the front I'd definitely recommend a strut spreader tool. I made a makeshift diy one from a short 3/8 extension and while it did the job it was less than ideal getting it into place. The rear bushings I did summer 2018 and I recommend freezing (contracting) the bushing before you go to install it. Everything is pretty straight forward if you run into any issues shoot me a PM or make a thread here... lots of helpful people round these parts.
gforce1108
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Aug 2, 2006
- Location
- Newburgh, NY
- TDI
- 04 Jetta GLS BEW, 14 Audi A7 V6 TDI, 13 Porsche Cayenne V6 TDI
I recently did struts, shocks, mounts, LCAs, tierods, ball joints and sway bar bushings on my wagon. Rear axle bushing are the only thing I haven't changed, but they show no signs of wear. For some reason I didn't notice the broken rear springs mentioned a few posts back
A 3/8" to 1/4" socket adapter will work as a strut spreader - tap it in and turn 45 degrees.
Measure the length of the tie rods and set the new ones as close as you can - alignment won't be too far off to drive it in for an alignment. Ball joints are a little harder to measure - so I usually mark the old ones in relation to the LCA first.
I would say the sway bar bushings were the biggest pain. The clamp bolt isn't long enough to squish the new bushing and still engage the threads. I used slightly longer bolts after fighting with it for a while.
I've done so many struts and lower control arm bushings that they don't phase me a bit. 310k miles and it rides like new!
romad
Top Post Dawg
Use Imgur
gforce1108
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Aug 2, 2006
- Location
- Newburgh, NY
- TDI
- 04 Jetta GLS BEW, 14 Audi A7 V6 TDI, 13 Porsche Cayenne V6 TDI
The pictures I posted shortly after were using imgur. I forgot I had already set up an account. I also went though a handful of pics on the tdiclub server to reduce their size as well so I can use that again. iphone pics take up a huge amount of space!
I noticed a fuel smell around the front of my car last night, and some investigation turned up a fuel leak and a compression pressure leak on the cylinder 4 injector.
Seating the injector seal a little bit with a few taps using a brass drift against the rear of the injector (around the threaded face, not on the line coupling) and retorqueing the hold down clamp appear to have fixed the pressure leak, and loosening and snugging the supply pipe fitting seems to have fixed the fuel seep issue.
New copper crush washers will be sourced just in case.
Seating the injector seal a little bit with a few taps using a brass drift against the rear of the injector (around the threaded face, not on the line coupling) and retorqueing the hold down clamp appear to have fixed the pressure leak, and loosening and snugging the supply pipe fitting seems to have fixed the fuel seep issue.
New copper crush washers will be sourced just in case.
Nero Morg
Top Post Dawg
Installed my upgraded intercooler and 1.8t pancake pipe. Also drilled out the holes on the intercooler so I could move the grommets over. That darned clip connector just after the turbo was failing and unclipping just one side causing a boost leak.
Rrusse11
Veteran Member
Had my guru remove the alternator, which needed a new clutched pulley.
I offered what assistance I could, but watching the experts I knew that
I would have been at it a LOT longer. I'm happy to pay for the expertise.
Had a spare idler pulley and shock in hand, the shock was fine, the pulley
a bit crudded up from the beginnings of belt failure, so that went in.
I did get my tires rotated and a new vented fender liner for the upgraded intercooler installed while it was up in the air.
I offered what assistance I could, but watching the experts I knew that
I would have been at it a LOT longer. I'm happy to pay for the expertise.
Had a spare idler pulley and shock in hand, the shock was fine, the pulley
a bit crudded up from the beginnings of belt failure, so that went in.
I did get my tires rotated and a new vented fender liner for the upgraded intercooler installed while it was up in the air.
Blacktree
Veteran Member
Yesterday, I removed the front subframe to recondition it. I'll be replacing the subframe bushings, cleaning up some rust, and repainting it.
Today I removed the gearbox, clutch, and flywheel. A new LUK DMF and clutch will be going in. I also replaced the gear oil with Pennzoil Synchromesh.
The old flywheel was "clocked" a bit. So I had to beat on it with a chisel and mallet to make the bolt holes line up. Fun stuff!
Today I removed the gearbox, clutch, and flywheel. A new LUK DMF and clutch will be going in. I also replaced the gear oil with Pennzoil Synchromesh.
The old flywheel was "clocked" a bit. So I had to beat on it with a chisel and mallet to make the bolt holes line up. Fun stuff!
gforce1108
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Aug 2, 2006
- Location
- Newburgh, NY
- TDI
- 04 Jetta GLS BEW, 14 Audi A7 V6 TDI, 13 Porsche Cayenne V6 TDI
Lucked out! - I've had to do this twice now:The old flywheel was "clocked" a bit. So I had to beat on it with a chisel and mallet to make the bolt holes line up. Fun stuff!
Blacktree
Veteran Member
My main goal was to replace the flywheel, which was knocking/clanking loudly at idle. But when I removed the old clutch, I saw this:
The friction disc is worn almost down to the rivets. So it needed a new clutch, too. Speaking of which...
The marks on the fingers are to keep track of the torque sequence. I was also able to re-install the gearbox today. The subframe will have to wait for tomorrow.
The friction disc is worn almost down to the rivets. So it needed a new clutch, too. Speaking of which...
The marks on the fingers are to keep track of the torque sequence. I was also able to re-install the gearbox today. The subframe will have to wait for tomorrow.
JDSwan87
Black Swamp Thing
- Joined
- Feb 9, 2014
- Location
- Michigan near Toledo
- TDI
- 2001 Jetta TDI, 5 speed Lagoon Blue Metallic(sold); 2005 Jetta TDI Wagon auto
Helped my buddy score on a RUST FREE 2003 manual Jetta WagonTDI! It's the cleanest I've seen in a few years of any MKIV. It's SO clean...
IndigoBlueWagon
TDIClub Enthusiast, Principal IDParts, Vendor , w/
Very jealous.