Bought a basketcase 2005 Golf... help!

Hey guys! This week I bought a 2005 GLS TDI 4 door golf with 181k miles. It is an auto with cloth heated seats. I paid 3600 for the car and was aware of a few cosmetic issues... as it turns out the issues are plentiful!

The power steering makes a terrible shudder sound when turning, when the gas is applied it immediately stops.

The rear hatch will only open with the key

the driver door will only lock with the key

the key fob lock button works fine but unlock only works from a foot away and even then, doesn't always work.

Door panel cloth coming off, headliner is too.

Clear coat on the roof and front bumper are peeling really bad.

typical broken center console lid


The things I am most concerned about are the door, hatch, and power steering.

Any input on what could be the cause?

The previous owner had owned the car for a year and knew nothing about the maint. history. The timing belt looks pretty good... I will be going through and checking all the fluids today and most likely replacing all of them, the fuel pump, and doing a diesel purge.

Is there anything else I should do to ensure this thing lasts me a long time?

Thank you in advance for your help/suggestions!

Power steering is likely the pump, given the symptoms. Check and change the fluid out first but best guess is that you are going to be doing a R&R along with a flush on the lines for that.

Thanks genesis! I topped off the fluid and the symptoms remain so I'd wager you're right! Once I find a good tdi mechanic I will have them do the timing belt water pump and power steering.

Any ideas on the door and hatch not responding to the key?

Make sure the key has a good battery in it. The range on these things is not great even under good conditions; my Mazda will unlock and lock from a good hundred feet or more away, but the Jetta has MUCH shorter range.

There are also "position" (sensor) switches in the lock modules; if they're not working (or not working correctly), or the wiring is defective then the button won't work because the door doesn't think it's locked/unlocked/etc. This should be able to be checked with VCDS.

Actually, the noise is likely the belt jumping/slipping due to a seized alternator pulley. It's supposed to drive in only one direction and slip in the other (like a bicycle freewheel). If it seizes solid (doesn't slip in either direction), the belt makes noise at idle and it's worse when steering hard. Mine did this and symptoms mirrored this exactly. Each engine power-stroke since Day 1 has been impact-torquing the pulley on, so mine took long cheater bars and a VERY generous helping of bad language to break loose!

That's a definite possibility -- those alternator pulleys can be a load of fun; the good news is that they can be changed in the car. If you have the tools, and IF they will come off with reasonable torque, that is.

The last one I had to deal with required that I pull the alternator (which CAN be done without ripping the front end of the vehicle off; it WILL come out the bottom despite what the Bentley says) and use my bench vise to hold the spline tool, after which an "appropriate" cheater bar brought success.....

I will second what nkgagne said about the alternator pulley. My wife drives a 2005 Jetta wagon and the other day when I was riding with her it sounded like the power steering was low on fluid. I check the power steering reservoir and the fluid was a little low, but not enough for it to make noise. I started up the car and the tensioner was bouncing all over the place - the sure sign of a failed alternator pulley. I have several "parts cars" so I pulled a good pulley of an alternator and swapped it on the wagon.....Problem solved. No more noise like power steering and no more bouncing tensioner.

Eric

Hate to say but the rear hatch lock could be the wire harness broken. Not cheap or fun to replace as I hat to do one but it possible. Take the plastic off to investigate.

Looking at a timing belt tells you nothing of the condition. If you don't know the exact history on that system making sure ALL parts were changed then that is the very next thing you should do.

Power steering - try fluid fush first if the alt pulley is fine.

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Coal miner, thanks for the reply.

Where does the harness fail? What do I check for?

Thanks for the ideas on the alternator pulley, I'll try to knock that out this weekend and see if it goes away.

Here's the center console lid fix:

http://www.fixmyvw.com/lifetime-warranty-armrest-lid-hinges-black-only/

Genesis said:

That's a definite possibility -- those alternator pulleys can be a load of fun; the good news is that they can be changed in the car. If you have the tools, and IF they will come off with reasonable torque, that is.

The last one I had to deal with required that I pull the alternator (which CAN be done without ripping the front end of the vehicle off; it WILL come out the bottom despite what the Bentley says) and use my bench vise to hold the spline tool, after which an "appropriate" cheater bar brought success.....

Click to expand...

The OP's car has a BEW engine in it.... the alternator is a 10 minute super easy R&R. There is not an injection pump in the way.

If the pulley is locked up, it will cause the accessory belt to bounce at idle, and since the BEW's tensioner has no shock absorber like the ALH's does, it will bounce bad enough to cause sporadic assist to the steering. The power steering on these cars is pretty good, rarely have issues.

Good point.

oilhammer said:

The OP's car has a BEW engine in it.... the alternator is a 10 minute super easy R&R. There is not an injection pump in the way.

If the pulley is locked up, it will cause the accessory belt to bounce at idle, and since the BEW's tensioner has no shock absorber like the ALH's does, it will bounce bad enough to cause sporadic assist to the steering. The power steering on these cars is pretty good, rarely have issues.

Click to expand...

Look at the boot going from hatch to car. The hoot may be intact but the insulation on the wires exposed.

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I apologize oilhammer. Don't know exactly how I quoted your text. Taptalk has changed a bit on me so I am getting used to using it for the forums differently.

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The pulley solved the issue, sorry for the late follow-up.

Still no luck on the electrical issues. I do now have an EGR leak and intercooler piping is coated with oil at the joints. Not much oil in the intercooler, just wet... I am now debating whether or not I need to replace the turbo.