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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW Passat Family (NMS and B7) TDIs (2012+)

VW Passat Family (NMS and B7) TDIs (2012+) Discussion area for the 2012+ Passat TDI (North American and rest of world versions versions). The North American model was previously codenamed NMS (New Midsize Sedan) and the version the rest of the world gets is sometimes referred to as B7.

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Old December 10th, 2013, 14:47   #1
ss2nv
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Default OSRAM 65w Rallye AND Upping Voltage with VCDS?

Hello. We just purchased a 2014 Passat SEL TDI and I am unhappy with the factory headlight output. I have read around and have decided to install the OSRAM 65 watt Rallyes. I have seen where others have done this and been happy, but what about also upping the voltage with VCDS? The OSRAM bulbs say that they are rated for 12 volts on the box. I just purchased the Micro-CAN cable from Ross-Tech and was wondering how high I could go with the voltage, or even disable the bulb-saver feature alltogether? Any thoughts?

Thanks.

Seth
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Old December 10th, 2013, 14:52   #2
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Disabling the life extender will increase the voltage to whatever the alternator is putting out.
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Old December 10th, 2013, 14:59   #3
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Originally Posted by VeeDubTDI View Post
Disabling the life extender will increase the voltage to whatever the alternator is putting out.
Right, but is it okay to do with these bulbs, being that they are 65 watt vs the factory 55 watt? I don't want to have to worry about the wiring, bulb-housings, or sockets burning up/melting.

Thanks.

Seth
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Old December 10th, 2013, 17:25   #4
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Originally Posted by VeeDubTDI View Post
Disabling the life extender will increase the voltage to whatever the alternator is putting out.
I thought you could actually dial in a voltage/wattage (one or the other)?

Gonna have to do some reading again.
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Old December 10th, 2013, 17:47   #5
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As far as I know, it is just a voltage adjustment(or turn off the bulb-saver mode completely). I just got back inside from swapping out my factory 55 watt H7 Hi/Lows for the OSRAM Rallye 65 watt bulbs. Afterwards, I used VCDS to up the voltage on the headlights and taillights to 13.5 volts. I also set the Comfort Turn Signal Cycles from 3 to 4 and disabled the Hill-Hold feature, as I have a DSG car. I am still looking at how to have the fog lights on with the DRLs and highs, though.
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Old December 10th, 2013, 18:18   #6
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I thought you could actually dial in a voltage/wattage (one or the other)?



Gonna have to do some reading again.

You can indeed select a voltage. Disabling it completely runs them wide open at whatever the electrical system is at.
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Old December 10th, 2013, 19:38   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ss2nv View Post
As far as I know, it is just a voltage adjustment(or turn off the bulb-saver mode completely). I just got back inside from swapping out my factory 55 watt H7 Hi/Lows for the OSRAM Rallye 65 watt bulbs. Afterwards, I used VCDS to up the voltage on the headlights and taillights to 13.5 volts. I also set the Comfort Turn Signal Cycles from 3 to 4 and disabled the Hill-Hold feature, as I have a DSG car. I am still looking at how to have the fog lights on with the DRLs and highs, though.
Cent elec. 09 look for fog lights active with DRL
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Old December 10th, 2013, 20:10   #8
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Anyone know what the current draw is on our headlights?

Essentially, is 13.5V what you want to run in order to have the Rallyes going at their full 65W?
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Old December 10th, 2013, 23:45   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ss2nv View Post
Right, but is it okay to do with these bulbs, being that they are 65 watt vs the factory 55 watt? I don't want to have to worry about the wiring, bulb-housings, or sockets burning up/melting.

Thanks.

Seth
Wattage is current times voltage. W=I*V. With higher voltage settings, such as with bulb life extension disabled, provides full electrical system voltage to your lamps. It can handle it since there is actually less amps flowing to the (stock) bulb.

With 12.6 VDC and 55 Watt lamps, that equates to 2.5 Amps.
With 14.0 VDC and 55 Watt lamps, that equates to 2.3 Amps
With 14.0 VDC and 65 Watt lamps, that equates to 2.7 Amps

0.2 amp increase is negligible.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JM Popaleetus View Post
Anyone know what the current draw is on our headlights?

Essentially, is 13.5V what you want to run in order to have the Rallyes going at their full 65W?
The lights will run at 65 watts regardless of the voltage supplied. They will just pull more current (more amps) attempting to attain the rated output.

The rest of the car is seeing 13.9 - 14.1 VDC from the voltage regulator (per my scan-gage) and has suffered no ill effects in the over one year that the tail and head light 'life extension' has been disabled in my car. And there have been more than a few electrical tweaks along the way as well.

I don't think that the cost of a lightbulb being "life-extended" by a lower voltage supplied outweighs the benefits achieved by operating them at their full rated voltage, and thus their full rated output. They are not that difficult to change.
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Old December 11th, 2013, 00:42   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ss2nv View Post
Right, but is it okay to do with these bulbs, being that they are 65 watt vs the factory 55 watt? I don't want to have to worry about the wiring, bulb-housings, or sockets burning up/melting.

Thanks.

Seth
Yes, I have my bulb saver turned off and the voltage set to max and run the OSRAM's in both high and low beams.
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Old December 11th, 2013, 07:22   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vw_norm View Post
The lights will run at 65 watts regardless of the voltage supplied. They will just pull more current (more amps) attempting to attain the rated output.

The rest of the car is seeing 13.9 - 14.1 VDC from the voltage regulator (per my scan-gage) and has suffered no ill effects in the over one year that the tail and head light 'life extension' has been disabled in my car. And there have been more than a few electrical tweaks along the way as well.

I don't think that the cost of a lightbulb being "life-extended" by a lower voltage supplied outweighs the benefits achieved by operating them at their full rated voltage, and thus their full rated output. They are not that difficult to change.
Sounds good! Thank you!

My wallet is going to cry ordering 8 bulbs, but it'll be worth it.
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Old December 11th, 2013, 09:34   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vw_norm View Post
Wattage is current times voltage. W=I*V. With higher voltage settings, such as with bulb life extension disabled, provides full electrical system voltage to your lamps. It can handle it since there is actually less amps flowing to the (stock) bulb.

With 12.6 VDC and 55 Watt lamps, that equates to 2.5 Amps.
With 14.0 VDC and 55 Watt lamps, that equates to 2.3 Amps
With 14.0 VDC and 65 Watt lamps, that equates to 2.7 Amps

0.2 amp increase is negligible.



The lights will run at 65 watts regardless of the voltage supplied. They will just pull more current (more amps) attempting to attain the rated output.
.
.
.
False! Incandescent lamps are a variable resistive load, and also have a reverse temp to resistance relationship (resistance goes *down* as it heats) and will draw more power at higher voltage, being limited by failure. Wattage ratings are at the design voltage, and only that voltage. Think about what you said - if it were true, you could get the same output with 6 volts as 12, and we all know that to be false as well.

So yes, while P=IV, P is also V^2/R or I^2*R (using ohms law, V=IR to solve for I or V).
Note P=V^2/R . . . power not only goes up, but goes up at the square of the voltage!

- Tim

Last edited by tadawson; December 11th, 2013 at 10:14.
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Old December 11th, 2013, 10:05   #13
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OK. I stand corrected. I was trying to keep it simple. 6v is an extreme example.
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Old December 11th, 2013, 11:48   #14
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I think the issue here may be that "12 volts" does not necessarily mean 12.0 volts. Since the inception on 12 volt electronics, a fully charged "12 volt" battery will read 14.1 volts.

In fact a battery that reads 12.0 volts is half dead.

So if Osram did not design this bulb to be tolerant of 14.1 volts (or higher) they are incredibly stupid.

I am interested to know what the actual voltage is when measured at the bulbs. I personally have installed relays and heavier wiring on cars to ensure maximum power available that would otherwise have been hampered by restrictive wiring.
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Old December 16th, 2013, 16:43   #15
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I appreciate all of the helpful replies. The 65w Rallyes have been going fine running at 13.5 volts. I went out tonight and upped it to the maximum 13.6 volts (while still having the bulb-saving feature on) in VCDS. I also turned on the instrument needle sweep (celebration) on start-up, DRL On/Off via MFI, and Fogs as DRLs.

My car is a 2014, so I was a little apprehensive when applying the changes, as most, if not all of the info that i have read concerning VCDS and NMS cars is about using it on 2012-2013 models. Anyway, the instrument sweep worked and the DRL function showed up on the MFI. It was too dark to test the fogs as DRLs.

I would still like to find out how to open/close the sunroof via the fob, though. I am sure that I have read over it in some other thread, but missed it.

On a different note, should I be worried about running this car through a car wash? I have read stories about the sunroof drains not being securely connected and leaking into the headliner. A high-pressure touch-less carwash would spray some serious water onto the roof...
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