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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW Passat Family (NMS and B7) TDIs (2012+)

VW Passat Family (NMS and B7) TDIs (2012+) Discussion area for the 2012+ Passat TDI (North American and rest of world versions versions). The North American model was previously codenamed NMS (New Midsize Sedan) and the version the rest of the world gets is sometimes referred to as B7.

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Old March 26th, 2014, 09:51   #31
vw_norm
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Originally Posted by JdC Machine View Post
I'm approaching my first 10k mile service. As such, I've been getting a "Service in X-number of days" message in the MFD for about a couple of weeks now and just within the last few days, the message changed to "Service Now."

My question is, do I wait until the 10k mile mark or go by what the car is telling me? My instinct is to wait until 10k miles.

Hunted and pecked from a Galaxy S4A.
There are 2 countdowns - time and miles. Just hitting the time vs not hitting the miles target (10K), is not a big deal. I'd wait until the miles roll up to 10K. For me, my cluster is stating service in 1,600 miles or 170 days, for the 30K service - I think I'll hit the miles before the days are done. Some would say 10K miles or once a year, but sticking with the mileage interval is easiest. Plus its easy to remember to do - nice round numbers - 10 - 20 - 30 etc.....
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Old April 20th, 2014, 18:03   #32
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What's everyone's opinion when it comes to the drain plug? I've seen some service kits offer a replacement plug and seal. Is it a recommendation to replace it every oil change?
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Old April 22nd, 2014, 10:05   #33
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What's everyone's opinion when it comes to the drain plug? I've seen some service kits offer a replacement plug and seal. Is it a recommendation to replace it every oil change?
When I did my first oil change at 10K, I installed a new magnetic tipped drain plug with copper washer. The OEM plug has no magnetic tip and uses a steel washer. It may have been aluminum, but I didn't check (still in my take-off parts bin). I like the copper washers as they are more malleable and will seal better without risking damaging oil pan drain hole threads from over-torquing. At the 20K change there was minor magnetic stuff stuck to the magnet - more like fine sludgy stuff. We'll see how the 30K change goes in a couple weeks. I got some Dimple magnetic plugs as they are equipped with a huge strong magnet - pricey, but are worth the investment.
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Old April 22nd, 2014, 10:15   #34
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I prefer the magnetic plugs and copper washers as well. Where can I pick up one of those plugs?

Hunted and pecked from a Galaxy S4A.
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Old April 26th, 2014, 01:11   #35
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I prefer the magnetic plugs and copper washers as well. Where can I pick up one of those plugs?

Hunted and pecked from a Galaxy S4A.
These are the magnetic drain plugs that I started using:
magnetic drain plugs
The magnets are crazy strong and expensive. But if you got some floaters in your fluids, these magnetic drain plugs will hold onto it until you next remove it. Ship fast too.
Here's a pic of the OEM non magnetic plug vs. the Dimple magnetic plug:


and a side view:
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Old April 26th, 2014, 22:58   #36
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Thanks, Norm! Wish I hadn't ordered a replacement for my 12v Cummins a couple weeks ago. I may still buy the dimple magnet plug anyhow.

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Old May 6th, 2014, 08:00   #37
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I added a frequently asked/misunderstood question to the first post of this thread...

Q: What is the difference between the NMS and a B7?

A: NMS stands for New Midsize Sedan, which is the project code name for the North American, Saudi Arabian and Chinese 2012+ Passats. B7 is a bit of a misnomer (it's really more like a B6.5), but refers to the European Passat, which is a completely different vehicle from the NMS. The B7 and NMS share practically nothing between them. While VWvortex and other sites commonly (and incorrectly) refer to all new Passats as B7s, it is technically incorrect.

Because TDIClub has a number of international members and prides itself on correct model identification, please use the proper terminology to refer to your Passat while posting here.

Summary: B7 = European Passat. NMS = North American, Saudi Arabian and Chinese Passat.
If you live in North America, you do not have a B7.
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Old May 26th, 2014, 17:56   #38
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I ordered and received a magnetic drain plug from Dimple Motor Oil Magnets, just as Norm recommended. I grabbed one for my Cummins while I was at it. Super fast shipping too! Shipped out of Dimple in North Carolina on Friday and was on my doorstep the following day! It came with a total of 3 washers. From my best guess, they're aluminum. I don't know how well or if they'd crush enough to seal but I'd rather use a copper washer instead. Another 350-400 miles and up the ramps it goes!

I ordered a service kit from ECS Tuning which has 5qts. of Castrol Edge Pro. 5w30, an oil filter and o-rings. Following the maintenance schedule, the tires will get rotated and, even though it doesn't call for it until the 20k mile mark, a cabin air filter.

I'm considering buying replacement gaskets for the EGR tube as I think I may simply remove it to clear some room for getting the oil filter in and out. It would also be a good chance to clear it of any soot build-up to keep the gases flowing smoothly.

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Old May 29th, 2014, 00:58   #39
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Originally Posted by JdC Machine View Post
I ordered and received a magnetic drain plug from Dimple Motor Oil Magnets, just as Norm recommended. I grabbed one for my Cummins while I was at it. Super fast shipping too! Shipped out of Dimple in North Carolina on Friday and was on my doorstep the following day! It came with a total of 3 washers. From my best guess, they're aluminum. I don't know how well or if they'd crush enough to seal but I'd rather use a copper washer instead. Another 350-400 miles and up the ramps it goes!

I ordered a service kit from ECS Tuning which has 5qts. of Castrol Edge Pro. 5w30, an oil filter and o-rings. Following the maintenance schedule, the tires will get rotated and, even though it doesn't call for it until the 20k mile mark, a cabin air filter.

I'm considering buying replacement gaskets for the EGR tube as I think I may simply remove it to clear some room for getting the oil filter in and out. It would also be a good chance to clear it of any soot build-up to keep the gases flowing smoothly.

Hunted and pecked from a Galaxy S4A.
I prefer the copper washers myself. Much more malleable as compared to aluminum. Let us know how pulling the EGR tube goes. I was thinking of getting some swageloc or parker fittings to an AN flare and a short stainless steel flex hose and making my own easily removable hose section for ease of future maintenance rather that disconnection flanges each time. Need to measure the tube OD to see what will fit/work.
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Old May 29th, 2014, 13:43   #40
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Sounds like a good idea, Norm. You could have some flanges machined or cut to size with fittings or bungs welded/brazed to them. That certainly would simplify removal! If you'd like, I'll get measurements of the tube as a reference for you. ID may be the more critical dimension if flow is a concern.

You probably have a source already but, check out www.anplumbing.com for what you're looking for.

I grabbed the EGR tube gaskets and a copper washer today from a local dealer.



Top goes on the engine side. P/N: 069-131-547-D, $7.94.

Bottom goes to the EGR valve or intake manifold. P/N: 03K-131-547-C, $7.22.

Next step will be to get some triple square bits to remove the bolts at the intake manifold flange. The others on the engine side are torx head.

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Old June 5th, 2014, 00:30   #41
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Here's something I found while downloading documents from erWin Online. Although, it's a Canada Tech-Tip, I think it would still apply to the U.S. TDIs as they have the aluminum oil pan as well. 30nM or 22ft. lbs. of torque on the drain plug.

CTT 17-00-01 | Date: Mar. 6, 2014
"The oil drain plug can be reused until the sealing gasket is deformed. The drain plug must be torqued to 30 Nm each time. After that, the oil drain plug with gasket must be replaced. The drain plug and gasket must be ordered separately as per the parts catalog."
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Old June 13th, 2014, 20:32   #42
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Performed my car's first 10k mile service today. More like 10,009 miles after driving around to get the engine coolant and oil up to normal operating temps.

I first made an attempt to pull the oil filter out without removing the EGR tube. I removed the 2 screws holding the coolant line as well as the plastic clip that holds the wiring harness. With a little bit of rocking back and forth, it was a success! No oil dripped on the insulation either. I did drape a plastic bag over everything though. But I did manage to get a drop of oil on the insulation after removing a rag used to wipe out the excess oil at the bottom of the housing.

After replacing the 3 o-rings on the cap assembly, putting filter back in took only a minute longer and went in just the same as it came out. Torqued the cap to the noted 25nM (18.4ft. lbs.) which hardly felt like much.

Then crawled underneath and installed my new Dimple Products magnetic drain plug and copper washer. Torqued to 30nM (22ft. lbs.).

After adding a little under 4.5qts., I ran the motor for a couple of minutes and looked around for any possible leaks. Everything is dry!

Rotated the tires, reset the service interval via VCDS and topped off the urea tank. Using the advanced measuring blocks under the ECM, VCDS told me that the tank was 77.75% full. Being a little under a 5 gallon capacity, I figured it to require a little over 1 gallon to top it off.

I bought 2 - 2.5 gallon bottles of Peak DEF. It came with a fill spout that screwed right in place of the cap. I wrapped thick rags around the filter neck of the urea tank to catch any small spills or drips. I set the bottle up on a small 4"x6" block with rags all around it while I poured it into the tank. Boy, what a small opening that has! Only had a couple of very small spills but all cleaned up just fine. Sure enough, it took a little over 1 gallon of DEF with the level just about the bottom of the filler neck.

As stated, all went well. No surprises or hang ups at all.

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Old August 11th, 2014, 15:29   #43
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Sorry, but my google-fu doesn't seem to be very good today.

How does one reset the "Change oil now" service reminder?

I read the owner's manual again today. It was in there.
In case anyone wants to know..

Turn the ignition off.
Press and hold the (0.0/set) button on the right side of the cluster
then press the start/stop button
let go of both buttons

it should says something like "are you sure you want to reset the oil life"
then press ok

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Old September 4th, 2014, 12:44   #44
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Here is a link I found:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tBYQnjur_wg
Looks like this is on a Golf/Jetta - can't imagine that it's much different on the Passat. Hopefully someone else can confirm. A coworker bought the refill kit and I helped him change his. Pretty easy - just make sure the car is cold first. After a couple of hours, the fluid temp (after changing) was still too high to check level. It warms up pretty quickly so start stone cold if possible.
Cold? Hell no! get it as hot as possible, let that fluid pour out like water! The case will be HOT and the new fluid going in will only take the brief operational steps (SHIFT THROUGH EACH GEAR for 3 Seconds WITH YOUR FOOT ON THE BRAKE). The new fluid will be warmed by the case and in no time at all you will be between 35-45 degrees C and ready to pull the VAS tool, drain the excess over the snorkel and install the plug. I just confirmed that on a NMS 2012 at 40K service. Imagine telling your customer who just drove in, to wait until tomorrow, your tranny has to be COOL. No way!
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Old September 15th, 2014, 09:22   #45
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How to service/refill the AdBlue reservoir on a 2012-2015 Passat TDI...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r5rXEWIeGCU
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