CR140 Stage 3

Kevinski4 said:

My truck has two active recalls, one from two years ago and one from 2007. My Jeep has two active recalls against it. One from 2006 and one from 2014. Haven't had any of the four addressed because I don't care.

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I wonder if the government has it's "S" together enough to prevent an owner from renewing their vehicle registration due to a recall. I doubt it based on my DMV experiences, but don't know on this one.

From reading parts of the official recall thread it seems that it depends heavily on the individual state.

evolDiesel said:

Consider this me asking how you know and what does TD1 mean?

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Mrrogers1 said:

Um, how do you know?

ETA: in case any of you need amazing oil for your DPF relocated rides, the Delvac deal is back on BUT you need to order this week >>>>> http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=448243
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TD1 is a flag in VW's system that means they know you are modded and have an ECU Tune. They can use that to deny warranty coverage.
Before my stock turbo blew, my actuator got stuck and I brought it to the dealer to be replaced. Before the VW Hotline would approve replacing it, they wanted to have it flashed with a newer file. So I let them flash it and then had the ECU sent back to GDM to get the tune laid over the newer update. Well since they flashed it while tuned, it did the spec vs actual check and flagged my car TD1. No big deal as I was 1000 miles away from being out of warranty. But then the turbo blew up right after that from the stuck turbo veins.

I wonder if our stage 3 cars are actually making more power than the Dyno figures have been seeing due to the possibility of the "Test Mode" being activated by the OBDII port. This would be interesting to find out.

gloaming said:

I wonder if our stage 3 cars are actually making more power than the Dyno figures have been seeing due to the possibility of the "Test Mode" being activated by the OBDII port. This would be interesting to find out.

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If you left your abs fuses in for the dyno, then the answer is yes.

pulling abs fuses deactivates it.

KERMA said:

If you left your abs fuses in for the dyno, then the answer is yes.
pulling abs fuses deactivates it.

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I'm not so sure. I read that the software "cheat" detectes the urban cycle FTP75 test which is used on a dyno while steering wheel and rear wheels stationary, a series of stop and starts, warm up and and highway cruise speeds that make up the EPA emissions test to activate the "switch". None of which include sustained WOT acceleration like what is used on a dyno to measure HP and torque.
.

gloaming said:

I wonder if our stage 3 cars are actually making more power than the Dyno figures have been seeing due to the possibility of the "Test Mode" being activated by the OBDII port...

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I'm only Stage 2 and making 317Lb-Ft on the most conservative dynamometer brand. I don't think your numbers have anything to do with DieselGate.


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evolDiesel said:

I wonder if the government has it's "S" together enough to prevent an owner from renewing their vehicle registration due to a recall. I doubt it based on my DMV experiences, but don't know on this one.

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They absolutely do. A few years ago I could not get my stickers here in California, due to a recall on my MKV GTI. There was no way around it. If I remember correctly, that was for a coil pack recall. No where near the seriousness of this upcoming recall. It's not going to be fun!

Audi Juice said:

They absolutely do. A few years ago I could not get my stickers here in California, due to a recall on my MKV GTI....

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That's California. I'm thinking about an already DEQ exempt County in a different state.

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^^^ Fingers crossed for you!

high MPG's

What speeds and rpm's are you guys finding will net you the best mpg's? I've been trying to play around with this, but sadly I hardly drive highway anymore


When I am on the highway I am usually keeping it in 5th gear and ~2200 rpms and this is putting me in the high 40's. I can still get in the 50's usually if the traffic is my friend. Driving on I-95 near Philly right now is so bad (massive construction project) that I am nearly lugging the engine in 6th gear going about 55-60mpg. Well not exactly lugging it, but 6th gear is usually around 1500-1700 rpms for me.

What is everyone else seeing and experimenting with?

I generally only use 6th at speeds over 65mph. I am fortunate to very rarely have any traffic on my normal routes. I get my best mileage on secondary roads at around 55 mph in 5th(around 50 mpg). If I could drive 65 mph on the highway , I would probably get 50 mpg.

Wow nice mpg!

gloaming said:

What speeds and rpm's are you guys finding will net you the best mpg's? I've been trying to play around with this, but sadly I hardly drive highway anymore


When I am on the highway I am usually keeping it in 5th gear and ~2200 rpms and this is putting me in the high 40's. I can still get in the 50's usually if the traffic is my friend. Driving on I-95 near Philly right now is so bad (massive construction project) that I am nearly lugging the engine in 6th gear going about 55-60mpg. Well not exactly lugging it, but 6th gear is usually around 1500-1700 rpms for me.

What is everyone else seeing and experimenting with?

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Believe it or not I find my best mpg at 70-75
My best tank was driving to Chattanooga Tennessee from the Poconos at that speed and got over 54 mpg hand calculated. And another time driving on hwy6 to corning ny I got similar but driving at around 55mph at 5th gear

Yea, so I just realized you are probably looking for folks that have a stage 3 or 2 tune as to their MPGS...I'm stock.

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pretty easy to hook up VCDS and graph the fuel consumption to compare different gears at a given speed. Not that I've done it.. I pretty consistently get 45mpg running 75 at lower altitudes, up in colorado/wy/mt that will go up to 48ish at the same speed.

otoh my oil consumption may be contributing to the mileage...

(not really.. but I do need to figure this out)


Anyone else having issues with their turbo yet? Based on the puff of blue smoke I got today when the boost came up in 3rd I'm guessing turbo vs piston rings. Also used a relative lot of oil on my last tank which included a long, steep hill at 80+mph. Need to do some digging to see what boost I'm hitting.. I generally don't let it spike too hard, which comes from avoiding the torque surge in higher gears to save my DMF.

Also need to pull the intake off and check the comp housing for wheel contact I guess.


Has anyone come up with different bolt-on turbos for this setup? I'm seeing mention of a CR190 turbo for passats.. If I end up having to replace the turbo I might as well look at my options.

Also if I end up having to replace it.. why the hell did it fail so early? only 35k on the turbo? I don't exactly take it easy on the car, but I also am pretty careful about letting the turbo cool before shutting off, avoiding lots of boost when cold, etc.. general good turbo practices.

Would it be possible to get a malone tune, then just gut the dpf, so I still have a frame to plumb and hold sensors? Block off anything else/hold flapper open, etc etc?

Avoiding buying $700 in pipe...

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gloaming said:

What speeds and rpm's are you guys finding will net you the best mpg's? I've been trying to play around with this, but sadly I hardly drive highway anymore


When I am on the highway I am usually keeping it in 5th gear and ~2200 rpms and this is putting me in the high 40's. I can still get in the 50's usually if the traffic is my friend. Driving on I-95 near Philly right now is so bad (massive construction project) that I am nearly lugging the engine in 6th gear going about 55-60mpg. Well not exactly lugging it, but 6th gear is usually around 1500-1700 rpms for me.

What is everyone else seeing and experimenting with?

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65 seems to be my sweet spot and while I'm not stage 2/3 or running CR170, I am RC1 with DPF/EGR delete has been VERY good to me. I think the key is to keep your revs right at 1900-2100 RPM max. Keeping in mind, total MPG will always very car to car in different locations and routes driven but I think 1900-2100 is where the car is most happy.

jason_ said:

Would it be possible to get a malone tune, then just gut the dpf, so I still have a frame to plumb and hold sensors? Block off anything else/hold flapper open, etc etc?

Avoiding buying $700 in pipe...

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If you do CR170 you can't keep stock DPF anyhow, I don't believe the outlet is same diameter. Also not sure gutting the DPF and then not 1 but 2 cats down stream is all that feasible. Flapper would be taken care of with tune. You could buy some junk down pipe and take your chances with fitment, quality and build but I'd recommend just saving your money and do it right. Buy once, cry once.

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I believe the dpf could be kept with the cr170 turbo(bv43a). You just would need to adapt the egr if the emissions was kept intact. I think a downpipe is a much better solution than gutting the dpf. I got nearly $200 for my emissions gear with 100k miles on it. The buzzken downpipe/midpipe was only $500 when I got mine about a year ago.

I was doing about 75mph last night in 6th gear and netted 48mpg (from MFD) over the 30 mile drive. This being done with a few quick passes around slow pokes ridding the left lane getting up to 80-85mpg at points. If you're going to drive 65 mpg, don't do it in the left lane!

Despite what others say I have faith the in the MFD's ability to measure mpg. My reasoning: If injection quantity is controlled by the ECU and distance is monitored by the ECU, it should have no problem calculating mpg withing a reasonable margin of error. My backup to this claim: 1.5 years of hand calculations for each tank always coming within 0.5mpg of what the MFD claims. I'd say that's within reasonable margin of error If 95% confidence is good enough for the scientific community, then it's good enough for me monitoring my fuel consumption.

gloaming said:

Despite what others say I have faith the in the MFD's ability to measure mpg. My reasoning: If injection quantity is controlled by the ECU and distance is monitored by the ECU, it should have no problem calculating mpg withing a reasonable margin of error. My backup to this claim: 1.5 years of hand calculations for each tank always coming within 0.5mpg of what the MFD claims...

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I agree on my (2) mkvi's. Definitely not the case on my (2) mkv's.

Yeah. I think the difference with these is how the Piezo injectors are electronically controlled from the ecu

http://www.dieselhub.com/tech/piezo-injectors.html

^^^ that's actually some cool little bit of info I didn't know

My Mk6 is regularly very optimistic with it's MPG display. I used the display as a general feedback tool to ID "good" or "bad" driving behavior. But I hand calculate at every fill up when I want to know the real numbers.

Opposite here

Stealth TDI said:

My Mk6 is regularly very optimistic with it's MPG display. I used the display as a general feedback tool to ID "good" or "bad" driving behavior. But I hand calculate at every fill up when I want to know the real numbers.

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My readout is always around 2 mpg low compared to actual hand calcs.... Ever since stage 2 Malone tune.

You can adjust it in the cluster adaptations I believe t is. Mine reads spot on now.

turbobrick240 said:

I believe the dpf could be kept with the cr170 turbo(bv43a). You just would need to adapt the egr if the emissions was kept intact. I think a downpipe is a much better solution than gutting the dpf. I got nearly $200 for my emissions gear with 100k miles on it. The buzzken downpipe/midpipe was only $500 when I got mine about a year ago.

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I was going to keep stock turbo. Dpf is cracked.

This thing is a money pit. Only reason I'm hanging on to it is because of the mileage. Otherwise then that, it's a piece of ****. Ridiculous of what's broke for an 09, and 90% of the issues are interior. Doors, locks, buttons, comfort accessories etc etc. Window switch on 2 doors fell in the door panel... Just little things are adding up fast.

My $300 beaters that are15-20 years older easily outperform this vw.


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My '11 has been much better. 120k miles, and the only bad parts have been the exhaust flapper(gone), and an egt sensor. Now that I have a new turbo, cp3 hpfp, downpipe, no egr or asv, I expect the car to make 300k easily.

Aweome

JFettig said:

You can adjust it in the cluster adaptations I believe t is. Mine reads spot on now.

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Good to know! I'll remember the for "next" time

JFettig said:

You can adjust it in the cluster adaptations I believe t is. Mine reads spot on now.

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Thanks for pointing out that this is possible. Good info.

Link for how to do it:
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/mpg-gauge-correction-and-adjustment-mk5-mk6-vw/

Has anyone here done a GTI/GLI/GTD Steering wheel swap? I'm trying to figure out if my horn/airbag from a stock Sportwagen will just drop in to one of them? Looks like you can find a used, flat bottom wheel on ebay for $250-$300.

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evolDiesel said:

Has anyone here done a GTI/GLI/GTD Steering wheel swap? I'm trying to figure out if my horn/airbag from a stock Sportwagen will just drop in to one of them? Looks like you can find a used, flat bottom wheel on ebay for $250-$300.

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I've done several MK5's, same airbag. I'm pretty sure you're good.