which turbo replacement?

Hi,

Newbe here. Bought a y2k Beetle TDI a few days ago, $500 with a bad turbo, oil pouring out the broken exhaust, 197k miles.

Stripped an allen head on the intake, but was able to get turbo with exhaust manifold out the bottom after removing the motor mount and pushing the engine forward, which then allowed access to the allen bolt. Compressor wheel was rubbing the housing, so my hopes of rebuilding it are shot. Its so rusty that I cant get the turbo unit out of the manifold.

My question is what do I get for a replacement? Ive seen rebuilt Garret units on ebay. A guy in Grand Rapids sells a "billet" aftermarket turbo for $500. I don't know what billet means, is the compressor wheel CNCed from a block of aluminum?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/GT1749V-Tu...ash=item2816ecf66a:g:hcMAAOSwOVpXWfF0&vxp=mtr


https://www.ebay.com/itm/Volkswagen...ngMethodExpress!60439!US!-1:rk:2:pf:0&vxp=mtr

I got a ton of gunk cleaned out of the intake and EGR. Intake ports are next, Ill try scraping with a shop vac.





Tony

Burn it out and use a frayed cable chucked in drill to remove Ash.


Sent from my Armor_2 using Tapatalk

5 speed or auto?

Are you planning to add some power? Now is the time for more turbo since you already have to replace it. More turbo isn't much more expensive and makes the car so much more fun to drive and you won't really loose much efficiency

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

I scraped then boiled remaining out with strong detergent solution then power washer. Down to metal inside.

arcosine said:

I scraped then boiled remaining out with strong detergent solution then power washer. Down to metal inside.

Click to expand...

Cool
So you asked what turbo, however, you haven't given any desires from the turbo, or intention with power mods.
These are key for a recommendation.
Generally if you want stock performance and do little hwy miles then the VNT15 is perfect. Otherwise we need more information.

Sent from my Armor_2 using Tapatalk

Yes Stock with EGR.

You may want to evaluate the rest of the motor before you get real far into your wallet.

Well, Billet offers no advantage over a cast compressor wheel, according to this:http://www.enginebasics.com/Advanced%20Engine%20Tuning/Billet%20vs%20Cast%20Wheels.html


So, Looks like I'll go for the rebuilt Garret for $399 plus gaskets and hardware.

arcosine said:

Well, Billet offers no advantage over a cast compressor wheel, according to this:http://www.enginebasics.com/Advanced Engine Tuning/Billet vs Cast Wheels.html


So, Looks like I'll go for the rebuilt Garret for $399 plus gaskets and hardware.

Click to expand...

Sounds like a plan. I'm always a bit weary of rebuilt, however, a pocket book can only handle so much

Sent from my Armor_2 using Tapatalk

Block off the turbo oil feed line and do a compression test first, or this whole event might be real hard on the wallet.
Your cars appears to be a twin of mine. I even bought it in the same condition as yours.

That would be a bummer, eh. Was your's low? It started and ran up the trailer ramp ok.

burn_your_money said:

Block off the turbo oil feed line and do a compression test first, or this whole event might be real hard on the wallet.
Your cars appears to be a twin of mine. I even bought it in the same condition as yours.

Click to expand...

Anybody have experience with Stigan turbochargers?

Posted this a few days back:

Oo-v-oO said:

FWIW, I've been running a Stigan turbo on my '02 Golf for about 3 months and 8,000 miles. So far so good.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JH5CDIQ/
They've come up a bit in price - I paid $325 for mine at that link.

Click to expand...

arcosine said:

That would be a bummer, eh. Was your's low? It started and ran up the trailer ramp ok.

Click to expand...

One of my cylinders was a touch low but still in spec. #1 I think. I'm not sure if it was related. I drove mine around the yard quite a bit trying to burn off the oil in the exhaust. Turns out the new turbo that the PO had installed also had a snapped shaft so it was just dumping oil into the exhaust. I put on a used turbo and the last 20k have been great. I'm going to bypass my cat soon though for testing to see if the oil permanently damaged it.

burn_your_money said:

Block off the turbo oil feed line and do a compression test first, or this whole event might be real hard on the wallet.
Your cars appears to be a twin of mine. I even bought it in the same condition as yours.

Click to expand...

Why block off the turbo oil feed for comp. test?..Done many comp. test.. never did that before..Just curious..

Because if the turbo is pooched and it sucks up some engine oil while you are doing the compression test, things could get... interesting.

I get it.. forgot the turbo was blowing oil..should have known,, just had a turbo blow and oil filled up the intercooler with oil!. what a friggen mess!!..nearly had "oil hydro lock"..

Turbo is off on the bench, even though, I doubt it could suck oil up the intake manifold, it would just go out the exhaust side of the turbo. There was a surprising amount of oil that spilled out of the intercooler tube.



Are the Stigan turbos rebuildable?

arcosine said:

Turbo is off on the bench, even though, I doubt it could suck oil up the intake manifold, it would just go out the exhaust side of the turbo. There was a surprising amount of oil that spilled out of the intercooler tube.



Are the Stigan turbos rebuildable?

Click to expand...

Trust me.. it WILL go into the intake manifold if enough oil is blown thru the turbo...depends on the scenario .. but it can blow into the cylinders! and actually fill up a cylinder or two!

Well fine. I'm still deciding what turbo to buy, either a Garrett rebuilt or Stigan new.

arcosine said:

Well fine. I'm still deciding what turbo to buy, either a Garrett rebuilt or Stigan new.

Click to expand...

This is a place I spend a bit more to ensure a quality part.
On the other hand, I understand finances and would likely choose to go through the classified section here and see what might be available. I got a new VNT17 for $800 and there are used and rebuilt options in the classifieds.

Sent from my Armor_2 using Tapatalk

I ordered a Sitgan replacement turbo for $368.


Trying to clean out the EGR cooler tubes, they are almost blocked with carbon. Got the inner ones with a spoke, not sure how to get the outer ones.

Try super clean degreaser, follow the directions on the jug and it'll work wonders.

I got all the EGR cooler tubes unplugged and cleaned out, except for one tube. I used a bent spoke and boiled it in strong detergent, then used the power washer, several times before all tubes were clear. Why the one, I don't know. no black stuff is on the spoke. Its blocked way at the bottom.

arcosine said:

Turbo is off on the bench, even though, I doubt it could suck oil up the intake manifold, it would just go out the exhaust side of the turbo.

Click to expand...

What if the seal in the cold side of the turbo was bad and leaking?
Wouldn't the oil blow along the tubing to the intake?
Last, there's no vacuum in a diesel so what would 'suck' it?

You might want to consider Dutch Auto Parts for your replacement turbo; Frans does really good work, his used turbos are taken apart, cleaned and balanced, and his "rebuilt" turbos are actually new CHRA's in a used exhaust manifold.

wonneber said:

What if the seal in the cold side of the turbo was bad and leaking?
Wouldn't the oil blow along the tubing to the intake?
Last, there's no vacuum in a diesel so what would 'suck' it?

Click to expand...

Boost pushes the oil through, forced air...

Sent from my Armor_2 using Tapatalk

Like I said previously, it started and ran up the trailer. Not Oleo-locked.


The oil poured out the exhaust. The turbo did not work, so not pressure. The intake manifold was not oily inside. The EGR was not oily inside.



I already bought a Stigan replacement turbo,it will be here on the 4th.

arcosine said:

Like I said previously, it started and ran up the trailer. Not Oleo-locked.


The oil poured out the exhaust. The turbo did not work, so not pressure. The intake manifold was not oily inside. The EGR was not oily inside.



I already bought a Stigan replacement turbo,it will be here on the 4th.

Click to expand...

Good, you're lucky, make sure you install a new oil feed line.

Sent from my Armor_2 using Tapatalk

So...what do you do if you accidentally get a piece of crude down the port and stuck in the intake valve? I was turning the engine with a socket and it wouldn't turn. I can see number 2 intake is slightly down. I don't think I bent the valve yet, just a piece of crud stuck in it. I think I'll let it soak on gumout.


Turbo arriaved today. has gaskets and some studs:

Well its no. 3 not no 2 intake valve is not closing. I hadn't touched that port yet. I just sprayed bug and tar remover into it to try to soften it. I could try turning it so the valve is open, near overlap then wedge something in the exhaust lifter and try blowing the exhaust port with compressed air, or try vacuum on the intake port. Oh yes I have a boroscope, hate to get it full of goo, though.


... Well now I am really confused. its the #3 exhaust valve that looks like its stuck down, the lifter is not contacting the cam, is there suppose too be a spring to push the lifter up? Whered I put that boroscope...?


...Too dark and black for boroscope to see in any port


Well There was oil in cylinder #2, it was oil-locked, plus the bug and tar remover I sprayed in it.


So the question is on #3 exhaust lifter is it a problem that it doesn't contact the cam base circle, maybe 1 mm gap? There is suppose to be a little spring, but its either broken or worn out. It should be fine once the engine is running but will it make a big chatter when just starting? Should I replace it?