P1556/P0102/P0674 Help

HamtramckDiesel · Oct 23, 2018

So, I recently bought a Gold TDI for a huge steal (500 bucks). I got it from a friend who just wanted to get rid of it. Only 170k miles on it, threw some BBS Wolfsburg wheels on for the winter and will be rocking some Longbeach's in the summer. Anyways, my issue is the leakboost code.

I recently got a mity vac and changed ALL the lines except the one for the VNT actuator. I plugged that main line with the Mity Vac and I pumped it and it wouldn't hold air. I am guessing it can be the line OR the diaphragm. Also, how would I test the N18 AND n75 solenoids?

I am a college student so I do not have unlimited funds. SHould I test these things while the car is ON or OFF? Also, is there a good guide on how to remove the VNT actuator and line? It looks like a real ***** to get to. Lol. Waiting for a response!

jmodge · Oct 23, 2018

VCDS will test your n75 with the engine off and while running. Did you discover the codes with vcds?

HamtramckDiesel · Oct 23, 2018

I do not have VCDs i have a standard OBD2 scanner. Idk if there is anyone near the Gr area with a Vag Com

jmodge · Oct 23, 2018

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=296841. Plenty in the GR area. I am ne 30 miles and Kirk Blaclmore is just east of 131, north of M57. He is having a get together this saturday if the car can make it

jmodge · Oct 23, 2018

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?goto=newpost&t=489967

HamtramckDiesel · Oct 23, 2018

Hey Boss,

Car is good! Just need some body work plus this issue. Drives fine and and everything.

You think someone there can help with VCDS? I am right on money until next paycheck!

jmodge · Oct 23, 2018

Kirks get to gethers attract characters from all corners, many with vast knowledge and rescources. There is no doubt you will learn something and meet others

BobnOH · Oct 23, 2018

You'll eventually find someone withe VCDS device. It's not a magic bullet, but it is the lowest price complete diagnostic tool.
I would suggest you read up some of the basics like this.
These cars are simple, but different.
The codes you pulled look rather TDI specific and may actually be correct.
Go here for some help with those.

Pretty common for the actuator to rust up, I can only get to that from underneath.

This user contributed search engine is also very helpful-
VW TDI Search Engine

oilhammer · Oct 23, 2018

The VNT actuator is right out in the open on the bottom, once the splash shield is off it is super easy to get to.

Just remember, if it rotted out (in your salt ridden area that could be very likely), the rust and debris can get sucked into the N75, causing it to stick and ultimately requiring its replacement.

HamtramckDiesel · Oct 23, 2018

Could cleaning these components help at all? Or should I just buy news i know i just saw Kirk will be selling some used parts so I’ll try and see if he has any.

oilhammer · Oct 23, 2018

Not sure how you could clean a ruptured diaphragm or a rust hole out of a bad VNT actuator.

Cleaning the N75 might be possible, never had any luck with that on these. Grit and stuff gets stuck down in there.

jmodge · Oct 23, 2018

Kirk works on these cars quite regularily and stocks common parts. Have your under shield off when you go there, if your diaphram is bad he may have one there.
Pull the line to the actuator and plug it to make sure it is not the line leaking. I am assuming you isolated the actuator and the line only when you did the leakdown test? Seems you did.

FYI, under gaurds protect the actuator from debris, and salt as Oilhammer pointed out. Essential in the GR area where salt is dispersed as if it is free and your unalienable right do drive over it.

HamtramckDiesel · Oct 23, 2018

Yes I replaced all my lines, and honestly a lot of them were good for being original. The guy i bought it from barely drove the car. Got it at 140k miles and i got it at about 169. He had it for well over 5 years. He was a truck driver.

Also, is there any way to know the actuator is leaking. Cuz I’ve isolated just the line with it still plugged in. How hard is it to get to the actuator with the shield off? Also what should I clean the N75/N18s out with. Just some basic electric cleaner? Just came home from ace and bought some PV blaster for the weekend, lol.

Thanks

HamtramckDiesel · Oct 23, 2018

I have experience working on cars but not turbos honestly. This is my first turbo vehicle. I’m pretty anal about everything so far. Using totella synthetic oil on it. I changed the oil twice to ensure everything gets lubrictaed. I also make sure to let her warm up and sit for about a a minute or two after. Excited to be a part of the TdI family. My first ever car was an MK3 golf so i had to bounce on this.

jmodge · Oct 23, 2018

Well, Kirk does have actuators in stock. Not sure you get get it changed, but he does have two stalls, a lift, and floor jacks.
If nothing else, you can get plenty of troubleshooting advice and pointers.

To answer your question, the actuator is accessible in the air from underneath.

So anyway, other than the codes, are you having driveability issues?

HamtramckDiesel · Oct 23, 2018

Other than limp mode not really. Car drives fine in the city other than being kinda weak (i know it’s only 90hp).

I sent him a message. Honestly i can do the changing myself. Would just love an actuator and just some pointers. Even more helpful if he lets a broke student use that lift! Hahaha

BobnOH · Oct 23, 2018

Ramps work fine, like cheap plastic rhino(?). First check things out, see if it's bad.
Your other code P0102 is another common one. It's for the MAF, sometimes just the connect needs cleaned. P0674 is glow plugs, deal with that latter. Cold starts may be hard.

HamtramckDiesel · Oct 23, 2018

Sounds good will give it a look Thursday afternoon!

HamtramckDiesel · Oct 23, 2018

Yeah glowplug i was thinking of doing soon. Because initially i got a goowplug 4 code. But changed it and it was still there then i did some reading saying that the order is backwards?

wonneber · Oct 23, 2018

HamtramckDiesel said:
Could cleaning these components help at all? Or should I just buy news i know i just saw Kirk will be selling some used parts so I’ll try and see if he has any.

I sprayed a bit of penetrating oil in my N75. Very little and lightly blew air through the ports.
It did seem to make a difference for a while.
I did finally change it and all the vacuum hoses.

wonneber · Oct 23, 2018

HamtramckDiesel said:
Honestly i can do the changing myself. Would just love an actuator and just some pointers. Even more helpful if he lets a broke student use that lift! Hahaha

The actuator is held in by 2 nuts on the bottom and an e-clip on top.
Tie string or dental floss to the clip so if it flies during re-install it's easier to find.

Before install compare the lengths of the shafts. They should be the same.
Final adjustment would need VCDS to log the boost.
Also move the arm going inside the turbo to check it moves full range and easy, no binding.
I've read you can work the arm by have for 5 (or so) minutes to help loosen it up.

This would be after confirming the original one is bad.

It gets expensive real fast playing guess a part to try.

HamtramckDiesel · Oct 23, 2018

I know I’m trying to avoid guess a part wasted 35 on a MAF already after finding out that’s not my issue lol. But if the arm isn’t moving and starts moving again could that help fix my actuator issues?

wonneber · Oct 24, 2018

HamtramckDiesel said:
I know I’m trying to avoid guess a part wasted 35 on a MAF already after finding out that’s not my issue lol. But if the arm isn’t moving and starts moving again could that help fix my actuator issues?

If the arm isn't free and moving you don't get boost.
If the actuator is not holding vacuum the turbo will not produce the boost needed resulting in low power. (under boost)
If the vacuum to the actuator is not enough you could get the same low or no boost.

A vacuum pump is the basic test tool for this.
It's also a vacuum gauge so you get two test tools in one.

HamtramckDiesel · Oct 25, 2018

I already checked the vacuum line down to the actuator with the pump. It holds NO vacuum. So I’m going to replace that line today and test the actuator hopefully it fixes it. If not I’ll be buying a new actuator and then the solenoids.

HamtramckDiesel · Oct 25, 2018

Okay, it looks like the line was abd and the actuator rod doesn’t move at all when i add vacuum. Can i fix it without replacing the actuator

oilhammer · Oct 25, 2018

You are probably going to need a new turbo.

If the VNT is stuck solid, you may be able to take the turbo out, take it all apart, and free it up. The rust issue is pretty awful up there, so you may find stuff breaking along the way.

HamtramckDiesel · Oct 25, 2018

I’m gonna need a whole new turbo? Lol??? What for?

Does the rod connect directly to the turbo? Or is it a part of the turbo?

HamtramckDiesel · Oct 25, 2018

Can i just add a new actuator and then it’ll work?

HamtramckDiesel · Oct 25, 2018

Or he’ll free up the actuator so it can move?

oilhammer · Oct 25, 2018

HamtramckDiesel said:
I’m gonna need a whole new turbo? Lol??? What for?

Does the rod connect directly to the turbo? Or is it a part of the turbo?

"LOL", Because that is what makes the boost! It is the 'T' in 'TDI'.

Yes, the VNT actuator, the rod, the exhaust manifold, the compressor housing, and the rotating assembly inside is all part of the turbocharger.

You bought a cheap broken car. It needs to be fixed to work properly. If it was not broken, you probably would not have gotten it for only $500. See how that works?

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P1556/P0102/P0674 Help