Special tool for struts?

jlav0330

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I am about to change out the front struts and spring (got some Bilstein HDs and Kerma springs, aw yeah), and in the Bentley manual there is a special tool that they use to disassemble the coil spring from the old strut, and I'm assuming will have to be used when assembling the new one too. It's like two ratchets stacked on top of one another... what is that? Can I avoid using that tool? Thanks.
 

Vince Waldon

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Yes, you'll need some way to hold the centre of the strut shaft in one place (7mm hex wrench) while twisting off the outside nut (21mm in most cases).

I have used a spark plug socket in the past, since it generally has flats on the top that will take a wrench. An O2 sensor socket can also work, although there are different sizes. A deep enough offset closed-end wrench might also work, although it will have to be bent at a very sharp angle to clear the retaining disk.

You can try zipping the nut off with an impact, but you run the risk of spinning the shock staff and messing up the seals.

You'll also need a spring compressor... obviously... and some kind of splitter tool for the bottom of the strut. Most folks use this one:

http://www.metalnerd.com/catalog/product/b29baad3ac384eb7a5c73845605edb8c
 

jlav0330

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Oh I'm going to use a 1/4" extension for the bottom of the strut, found that suggestion here. Got a cheap $5 extension that I'll use. Yeah I'll be renting one of those spring compressors. Now just have to think about whether I want to try and find a socket that'll work or get an angled wrench like you said... don't have an impact wrench so I can't use that. Thanks for the info.
 

jlav0330

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Ok I think I know what I'm going to do. The nut that's at the top of the stem on the Bilstein HDs is 7/8". I can easily find a spark plug socket that'll be 7/8" and can do this. Oddly enough the spark plug socket that I have in my Craftsman tool set is 5/8", so gotta go buy a new one...
 

Vince Waldon

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Yup, spark plug socket works well.

The tricky one, for me, is a really strong 7mm hex. It has to be long enough to go down thru the top of the spark plug socket but also strong enough that it doesn't twist apart over its length.
 

Curious Chris

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But getting the strut out of the steering knuckle is difficult without the metal nerd tool that opens up the clamp that is a precision milled opening that the strut sits in and you expand it a few thousands of an inch an out comes the strut.
 

Petra's cousin

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The metal nerd tool is worth the purchase price. I ground one out of a 3/8x1/4 socket adapter and it ended up sheering off in the middle of the job. Luckily the local VW specialty shop had either the metal nerd tool or a knockoff so I popped out to pick one up.

John
 

Problypropylene

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I've always hammered a tapered punch/drift into the slot that holds the bottom of the strut. It's def not the right way, but it's always worked fine. I'm sure the metalnerd tool makes it easy as pie.

For holding the nut at the top of the strut I grind two flats into the properly sized socket, but the spark plug socket is a good idea. Spark plug sockets are a bit longer than the standard sized ones I grind flats into, so you'd just need an allen wrench long enough to reach down in there.

Impacts work for removing the nut too, unless it's old and stuck, then it just spins forever... but you shouldn't use an impact to install the new struts, so having a tool to counter-hold the new strut is a must imo.
 

csstevej

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I’ve done the Allen wrench trick by putting the long end down the center of the spark plug socket and getting a 1/2 ID metal pipe about 2” long and inserting onto the small section of Allen wrench that’s sticking out ( black pipe works great for this ) then using a wrench on the flats of the spark plug wrench. Been doing that for years with great success......
 

Vince Waldon

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Impacts work for removing the nut too, unless it's old and stuck, then it just spins forever... but you shouldn't use an impact to install the new struts, so having a tool to counter-hold the new strut is a must imo.
Yup, if you're tossing the old strut then spin away IMHO since you're not worried about the internal seals, but I shudder at all the Youtube videos where the answer to everything, both disassembly and reassembly, is chugga chugga chugga. :)
 

gforce1108

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I used a cheap compressor for years doing tons of struts but finally bought a Branick 7600. Should have bought one years ago!!!

I use a 3/8" to 1/4" socket adapter to spread the mount. Impact to buzz off the nut, socket in visegrips with an Allen driver to tighten or a specialty ratchet set with a hole through the middle.

 

Shenandoah

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Folks,

I've done struts on a couple of my VWs in the past year or so. I have the metalnerd "hollow" socket for the top nut. Works great. I did have problems replacing one of the struts on my Beetle: It was rusty and the hex area "rounded out". I ended up having to drill out the top strut cup to get it out.

One thing I do when replacing struts is take the whole strut/spring/knuckle assembly out and work on it on the bench. Much easier to work on. When I replace struts I usually replace the lower ball joint and wheel bearing also. I'll also replace the lower control arm (if needed) and/or the tie rod assembly.

Eric
 

MrFahrenheit99

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I am about to change out the front struts and spring (got some Bilstein HDs and Kerma springs, aw yeah), and in the Bentley manual there is a special tool that they use to disassemble the coil spring from the old strut, and I'm assuming will have to be used when assembling the new one too. It's like two ratchets stacked on top of one another... what is that? Can I avoid using that tool? Thanks.
How did the install end up going? I have to do this to my car soon and was wondering what people thought of the Kerma springs. Would you recommend them for someone who cares very little about "performance" but wants a comfy yet supportive spring? My cars springs are saggy and old so they need a refresh but I drive like a grandpa and do a LOT of very long distance road trips
 

joep1234

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I swapped the struts on my last Beetle and we couldn't get them loose. We sprayed it with penetrating oil and still couldn't get the nut loose. Since we were replacing the struts and springs we used a cutoff wheel on the springs and shaft once they were out of the way. Not the best way but you do what you have to to get the job done.
 

gforce1108

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I swapped the struts on my last Beetle and we couldn't get them loose. We sprayed it with penetrating oil and still couldn't get the nut loose. Since we were replacing the struts and springs we used a cutoff wheel on the springs and shaft once they were out of the way. Not the best way but you do what you have to to get the job done.
Vice grips on the strut shaft and an impact on the nut will do the trick if you are replacing the strut. No worries damaging the strut if it's garbage. I don't think I'd bother disassembling at all if replacing springs and the strut. New mounts, bumpstop and dust boots and toss the whole old assembly!
 

csstevej

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north nj
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2001 golf tdi 4 door auto now a manual, mine, 2000 golf 2 door M/T son's,daughters 98 NB non-TDI 2.0, 2003 TDI NB for next daughter, head repaired and on road,gluten for punishment got another tdi 2001NB,another yellow tdi NB
I’ve had to do exactly what Gforce suggested with vice grips on shaft…..worked great.
 
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