tdifanguy
Member
I purchased a 2001 Golf TDI with a 4spd automatic transmission not too long ago( I believe it is the 01m-FDB model). The car has approximately 187,000 miles and the transmission was rebuilt approximately 10,000 miles ago, which is the reason why I purchased the car, I figured since the transmission was repaired I wouldn’t have anything to worry about. I am definitely a newbie and could really use some help here is my situation:
Soon after I purchased the car I drove it from southern California to San Francisco as a way to test the car to ensure that it was dependable enough. I got to about 1 hour from San Francisco when the check engine light came on the dashboard. When I checked it, it showed P0740 TCC Malfunction. I cleared it and then the car ran good. Thinking back to the trip I remember it surging when going up a really steep portion of the 5 freeway (the grapevine), I haven’t seen it surge since but it does slip.
I decided to get the Vag cable to check for the more adequate codes. When I ran Vag-Com I got 01192 mechanical code which seems to be very common with these 01M’s. I read the 4 parts of the 01M by CoolAirVw, which are great, they established a baseline for my diagnostic work. I specially found part 3 useful because it seemed that it was the same problem I am having so I began to follow the same steps to diagnose the problem. I checked for slip using vag-com. The car definitely slips a considerable amount except when on 4th gear on the freeway. Aside from that the slip diagrams are a bit confusing given I don’t know what “Normal” should be. I just assumed 0-slip when at a constant speed wouldn’t be too much to ask for, but that doesn’t happen too often.
I began to pay closer attention to the engine rpms with relation to the mph speeds and found that they are somewhat consistent but not solid. What I mean is that they jump around a given area. From time to time it shifts hard to 3rd and that’s when I know the gear is in and I expect a less amount of slippage. I also found that when I am traveling up-hill the car slips a whole lot more, so much more that my wife knows its slipping (or running at much higher rpm’s). It doesn’t report an engine code but it does slip.
I changed the ATF and found that the ATF was dark ( I will attach picture soon), and I didn’t find any metal shavings in the magnet just a very thin film that appeared to be grease when I wiped it off with a shop towel. I looked at the valve body and it had an after market wire harness, not the flat-plastic ribbon harness that I see on the threads. I took a few pictures of the valve body and the solenoids which I will post in bit. The only thing out of the norm was that two of the four bolts for the ATF pan were stripped and would not torque down to the specified torque. I got them on tight but not to torque spec because they would loosen all together, I haven’t seen any oil on the driveway so I am assuming that it doesn’t leak fluid. I refilled the transmission following the correct refill procedure and drove the car. The car drove a bit better but not perfect. I took it up a hill and the slip was still there. As soon as the car feels a heavier load I can see the rpms increase.
Aside from all of the above the only other thing that might be worth noting is that the valve body harness is held to the car side using zip ties, its pretty tight ( I replaced them myself to double check). Not sure if this would cause a problem but I don’t want to leave anything out.
At this point I am not sure what to do next in order to fix the problem but I am open to suggestions. I have seen remanufactured valve bodies online but not sure if that will fix the problem. What else can I check/verify before I begin ordering parts or changing things? Could it be the torque converter? If so how could I check? Even though I have only had the car for a short while I love my car and want to have it running as close to OEM as possible. At this point I have averaged about 36mpg 50/50 driving, not sure if that is low or not, I am assuming it is a bit low because of the slip. I do have the transmission rebuild invoice, it states that a solenoid kit was used, not sure what exactly was done...too bad the warranty was non-transferable.
Any help would be GREATLY APPRECIATED. Thank you all!!
here are images of the valve body.
Soon after I purchased the car I drove it from southern California to San Francisco as a way to test the car to ensure that it was dependable enough. I got to about 1 hour from San Francisco when the check engine light came on the dashboard. When I checked it, it showed P0740 TCC Malfunction. I cleared it and then the car ran good. Thinking back to the trip I remember it surging when going up a really steep portion of the 5 freeway (the grapevine), I haven’t seen it surge since but it does slip.
I decided to get the Vag cable to check for the more adequate codes. When I ran Vag-Com I got 01192 mechanical code which seems to be very common with these 01M’s. I read the 4 parts of the 01M by CoolAirVw, which are great, they established a baseline for my diagnostic work. I specially found part 3 useful because it seemed that it was the same problem I am having so I began to follow the same steps to diagnose the problem. I checked for slip using vag-com. The car definitely slips a considerable amount except when on 4th gear on the freeway. Aside from that the slip diagrams are a bit confusing given I don’t know what “Normal” should be. I just assumed 0-slip when at a constant speed wouldn’t be too much to ask for, but that doesn’t happen too often.
I began to pay closer attention to the engine rpms with relation to the mph speeds and found that they are somewhat consistent but not solid. What I mean is that they jump around a given area. From time to time it shifts hard to 3rd and that’s when I know the gear is in and I expect a less amount of slippage. I also found that when I am traveling up-hill the car slips a whole lot more, so much more that my wife knows its slipping (or running at much higher rpm’s). It doesn’t report an engine code but it does slip.
I changed the ATF and found that the ATF was dark ( I will attach picture soon), and I didn’t find any metal shavings in the magnet just a very thin film that appeared to be grease when I wiped it off with a shop towel. I looked at the valve body and it had an after market wire harness, not the flat-plastic ribbon harness that I see on the threads. I took a few pictures of the valve body and the solenoids which I will post in bit. The only thing out of the norm was that two of the four bolts for the ATF pan were stripped and would not torque down to the specified torque. I got them on tight but not to torque spec because they would loosen all together, I haven’t seen any oil on the driveway so I am assuming that it doesn’t leak fluid. I refilled the transmission following the correct refill procedure and drove the car. The car drove a bit better but not perfect. I took it up a hill and the slip was still there. As soon as the car feels a heavier load I can see the rpms increase.
Aside from all of the above the only other thing that might be worth noting is that the valve body harness is held to the car side using zip ties, its pretty tight ( I replaced them myself to double check). Not sure if this would cause a problem but I don’t want to leave anything out.
At this point I am not sure what to do next in order to fix the problem but I am open to suggestions. I have seen remanufactured valve bodies online but not sure if that will fix the problem. What else can I check/verify before I begin ordering parts or changing things? Could it be the torque converter? If so how could I check? Even though I have only had the car for a short while I love my car and want to have it running as close to OEM as possible. At this point I have averaged about 36mpg 50/50 driving, not sure if that is low or not, I am assuming it is a bit low because of the slip. I do have the transmission rebuild invoice, it states that a solenoid kit was used, not sure what exactly was done...too bad the warranty was non-transferable.
Any help would be GREATLY APPRECIATED. Thank you all!!
here are images of the valve body.
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