50k mi vs 100k mi TDI purchase(s): your advice needed!

Happy Saturday, all. I'm Sportwagen shopping, and looking specifically for an '11-'14 6MT SW. I'm seeing everything from $14k CPO cars with 30-50k miles to $6500, 150K mi cars. I'd like to stay between $7500 and $10k, and that puts me in the "clean, good condition" 50k to 100k mile cars. Other than being that much closer to a timing belt (and, possibly, a clutch or flywheel repair), what else should I consider in this decision? What pros are there to spending $2-3K more on a car with half the miles traveled (or is it preferable to save that money toward eventual repairs)? Assuming the "fix" has been done somewhat recently on these cars, much of the problematic stuff will be covered by VW, but I am sure there are other matters to consider.

What do you think? I'm mulling over options as we speak. Looking at a 2014 with 50k and a 2012 with 99k at the moment, and they are around $2500 apart in price. I know the '14 has a more robust injection pump, no? Is that worth considering, or aren't they all covered under warranty anyway?

Thank you!

Oh, and I should add: I am comfortable doing timing belt service myself. I'll invest in the basic tool set and take my time... I've done others before and am not afraid of the procedure, so that shouldn't be a major cost to consider. Thanks again!

The problematic fuel pumps are in the earlier cars, and most seem to fail right away if I understand things correctly. In any event, they're covered under the emissions warranty. Be sure you keep fuel receipts as VW will try to weasel out of it if something goes wrong. And get your own sample tested because they seem to have a suspiciously/conveniently high rate of "water contaminated" fuel.


If the cars are in similar condition I'd take the cheaper one. That's cash you can put to other things. I've put over 200k km on ours and few things not related to the emissions components have failed.



Get a list of components replaced as a lot of these cars sat for ages during the lead up to the dieselgate resolution. Fuel tanks have been known to become contaminated. Dry rot can set into bushings too. Highly unlikely they've flushed the brake fluid but that should be done every two years regardless of mileage. Check the battery age and charge. Things like that.

PRY4SNO said:

The problematic fuel pumps are in the earlier cars, and most seem to fail right away if I understand things correctly. In any event, they're covered under the emissions warranty. Be sure you keep fuel receipts as VW will try to weasel out of it if something goes wrong. And get your own sample tested because they seem to have a suspiciously/conveniently high rate of "water contaminated" fuel.


If the cars are in similar condition I'd take the cheaper one. That's cash you can put to other things. I've put over 200k km on ours and few things not related to the emissions components have failed.



Get a list of components replaced as a lot of these cars sat for ages during the lead up to the dieselgate resolution. Fuel tanks have been known to become contaminated. Dry rot can set into bushings too. Highly unlikely they've flushed the brake fluid but that should be done every two years regardless of mileage. Check the battery age and charge. Things like that.

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Thank you -- this is exactly the sort of input I'm looking for!

I had exact thoughts on my 2011, 6m purchase. Past history is EVERYTHING. Low miles mean nothing if the cars been dogged.

In 2/2019 I found a great CPO (fixed) w/ 69k for $10k OTD. They wanted more $, but wanted to move it worse I guess. It had new tires, brakes, DPF (huge expense to consider)

IMHO the CPO coverage is especially valuable if you cant tune/delete and have low miles. The HPFP seems to have issues with excessive wear damage. The threads Ive read seem to point to fungus or bad fuel related causes. Ive always used a occasional fungicide and Chevron fuel. 225k on my old TDI passat and original HPFP.

JELLOWSUBMARINE said:

I had exact thoughts on my 2011, 6m purchase. Past history is EVERYTHING. Low miles mean nothing if the cars been dogged.

In 2/2019 I found a great CPO (fixed) w/ 69k for $10k OTD. They wanted more $, but wanted to move it worse I guess. It had new tires, brakes, DPF (huge expense to consider)

IMHO the CPO coverage is especially valuable if you cant tune/delete and have low miles. The HPFP seems to have issues with excessive wear damage. The threads Ive read seem to point to fungus or bad fuel related causes. Ive always used a occasional fungicide and Chevron fuel. 225k on my old TDI passat and original HPFP.

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More great input -- thank you! I have been checking history as best I can, and lean more toward dealer-maintained cars. Chances are they saw the correct oil (well, hopefully anyway). The unknown is somewhat intimidating!

I bought my 2011 6spd with leather heated seats etc with 71k miles last April for $8k and I've been very happy with it. I've put 30k miles on it already had I've had one code thrown that was emissions related and VW fixed it under warranty. I also had to replace the rear shocks and springs last month but that wasn't surprising at 100k miles and considering how I've had the trunk stuffed with tools the past 30k

asgoodasdead said:

I've had one code thrown that was emissions related and VW fixed it under warranty.

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Sounds like you got a great deal. Was it a CPO? Im not sure if 2011 are too old to fit CPO requirements now due to age? It seems that a CPO generally ads $1-2k on the price. So an older less expensive, low mile, non CPO would be a great find. The "Car Fax" will have any dealership maint. history, so that would be good. My "emission's" part of the warranty is good until 5/2021 or 126k <-- (non CPO coverage).

JELLOWSUBMARINE said:

Sounds like you got a great deal. Was it a CPO? Im not sure if 2011 are too old to fit CPO requirements now due to age? It seems that a CPO generally ads $1-2k on the price. So an older less expensive, low mile, non CPO would be a great find. The "Car Fax" will have any dealership maint. history, so that would be good. My "emission's" part of the warranty is good until 5/2021 or 126k <-- (non CPO coverage).

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No I got it at a rinkydink dealer that got it at auction. oh yeah forgot to mention the Carfax showed 1 owner who impeccably maintained it at the dealer

Any service records that indicate the car wasn't neglected over the past few years would be helpful. The buy back vehicles, who knows if the previous owners felt compelled to preform any maintenance due before handing it over, so having any info there is better than crossing your fingers.

If it's a 6MT that has sat for a while, sometimes the slave cylinder gives out if the system isn't used regularly. A few folks have mentioned the clutch pedal going to the floor, so try and have the brake fluid reservoir flushed with fresh fluid and keep any eye on the level for the first couple weeks driving.

Both should have the date they were fixed indicated, the timer starts from that day, so figure out which one is the longer period if you're worried about that.

Around the 100K mark you'll be starting to think about timing belt, and water pump and soon the clutch/DMF (hard to tell what type of condition these are in, since VW put a dummy valve in the bleeder block you won't get the same feed back) as well as MT fluid since it isn't actually "lifetime". Wheel bearings might also be in the near future, as well as most of your bushings and depending on the condition of your roads struts and tie rods. Lots of things start to wear out on a 100K vehicle, but if you're able to do the work you'll have a nicely refreshed car.

Think about the rough estimate you'd spend in parts if you did it yourself and add the cost to the purchase price. If you have someone else do the work add in a rough labor estimate also. That should give you an idea of where you'd be $ wise after maybe 2 years of driving.

If the purchase of the lower mileage vehicle is lower than the above and you won't put 50k on in 2 years, the lower mileage vehicle might be a "cheaper" option over the same window. But again, it all depends on what if any information you can glean about the vehicles and how much routine maintenance the selling dealer will perform (tires, brakes, fluid flushes, wiper blades etc.).

Good luck, let us know how it goes!

Thank you all again! Im torn, as there are a few interesting options I can consider within 5 hours (or so) drive. Choices, choices.

Thanks again, folks!

Are you interested in modifying the car? Perhaps that may be a consideration as well. How long is the existing warranty on the cars you are interested in? You can either decide to mod sooner or later depending on your preferences. I am just out of warranty with a brand new DPF...trying to decide what to do with mine. Mainly want to get rid of the water in the intercooler and not have to rely on my homemade drain.

jesus_man said:

Are you interested in modifying the car? Perhaps that may be a consideration as well. How long is the existing warranty on the cars you are interested in? You can either decide to mod sooner or later depending on your preferences. I am just out of warranty with a brand new DPF...trying to decide what to do with mine. Mainly want to get rid of the water in the intercooler and not have to rely on my homemade drain.

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I've been mulling this very thing over myself. Most of the cars I have seen have the lion's share of their post-fx warranty remaining (and some were JUST fixed). I'd like to tune and delete eventually, but I'll ride the warranty for a while before I do any of that.

Thanks!