My MK5 DMF is failing and starting to chatter badly. I'm going to attempt to replace it soon. Is the DMF the same for both manual and automatic transmissions? I don't want to pull everything only to find I have the wrong part. Also if I remove the fan will this allow me to change the DMF without dropping the transmission completely?
MK5 DMF Replacement Parts Question
- Thread starter TNUN
- Start date
Drop the trans. It is possible without doing so but why go through the hassle? You also just need to remove the drive flanges on each side, removing the subframe is not required. If you want to drop the subframe, you'll need an alignment.
nokivasara
Veteran Member
I was just about to ask the same question, I might aswell keep it in this thread.
The DMF in my Skoda is in it's early stages of failure, I can sometimes hear it when idling with a hot engine. No other signs.
I have noticed that there are at least 2 different sizes of DMF's, 228 and 240mm. How do I tell which one I've got?
The engine is a BLS and I have a 6-speed manual, don't know the code for that.
Is there a better or upgraded part # that I should look for?
Also, any recommendation on which DMF + clutch kit to choose from Sachs or LuK?
The DMF in my Skoda is in it's early stages of failure, I can sometimes hear it when idling with a hot engine. No other signs.
I have noticed that there are at least 2 different sizes of DMF's, 228 and 240mm. How do I tell which one I've got?
The engine is a BLS and I have a 6-speed manual, don't know the code for that.
Is there a better or upgraded part # that I should look for?
Also, any recommendation on which DMF + clutch kit to choose from Sachs or LuK?
Yes, the DSG one is more expensive then manual. But with manual, you usually end up buying the pressure plate and the clutch too, not just a flywheel.
I wouldn't worry about the DMF before it gets realy obvious.
BLS should have the 228 version.
Everyone around prefers LUK. Personally I think they both suck so I'd buy Sachs for two reasons: 1) to give it a try (who knows, maybe it will live longer than LUK?) 2) it's cheaper
I wouldn't worry about the DMF before it gets realy obvious.
BLS should have the 228 version.
Everyone around prefers LUK. Personally I think they both suck so I'd buy Sachs for two reasons: 1) to give it a try (who knows, maybe it will live longer than LUK?) 2) it's cheaper
Ol'Rattler
Top Post Dawg
Are you referring the the DSG or the manual?
If you are talking manual, you don't have to remove the fan or the cross member. The trick is to tie the axles as far up and aft as you can get them and once the transmission is broke loose, turn it 90 degrees and drop it straight down. Easy Peasy with a tranny jack and jack stands. the short tranny jacks Harbor Freight sells are about $90 and well worth it.
If you get the short jack, remove the buckle and strap from it and just have a helper balance the tranny on the jack from above.
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nokivasara
Veteran Member
Thanks, I was set on ordering the Sachs kit, so I'll stick to that for now.
About not worrying about it, now that I have picked up the sound I can hear it pretty clear, even if it's not present all the time.
Not sure what stages the failure will go through so I don't know what to expect next. I'm pretty sure this noise was there when I bought it last summer but I thought it was the input shaft bearing.
If I remember correctly, Sachs full kit comes assembled (flywheel, clutch disc and pressure plate bolted together). There are special holes which are needed to bolt this entire set to the crankshaft. So if you end up with Sachs kit on your hands, just bolt all that stuff to the crank - there's no need to remove pressure plate in order to install the flywheel. I think you'll get the idea once you see it.