Started 1.9TDI Conversion on a 1977 Jeep CJ-7

update?

Does anyone have a way to reach Babyrattler?

@ N2TOH- I have a 1Z short block that i want to sell. It suffered from the wrist pin problem in the #3 cylinder.

updated info?

Any news on how this project is proceeding?

Hey everybody. Sorry I have been away for so long with greasey fingers and blood knuckles. The project is coming along well but has taken a LONG time to get where I am right now. The engine is in the assembly stage right now (waiting on the head gasket from Frank as well as oil/frost plugs). As soon as I get the plugs installed on the back of the engine I will bolt on the adapter plate/ custom flywheel/ clutch/ etc and bolt it into the frame. The new engine mounts have been fabbed and welded onto the frame. The trans mount has been modified and is sitting ready and waiting. As of right now I think I might be able to fire the engine in about 4 - 6 weeks. I'll try to post pics this weekend. Thanks for the interest in the project and again, sorry for being so bad about updating the post. Take care everyone.

Joel

OK, finally some eye candy for those that are following with some interest. Here are pics of the current state of the project with descriptions. I hope you enjoy.


The engine block blasted/cleaned/honed/painted with #1 in place.

Crank still wrapped after polishing and balancing.

Checking piston projection after assembling bottom end. Need #3 head gasket, Frank is all over it. If you need engine parts and technical help, Frank is awsome!

This is the drivers side fixed engine mount after being tacked in place. The parts were modeled in SolidWorks and then plasma cut at a local shop. Everything fit very well.

Fixed engine mounts complete and painted. The actual mounts are for a GM 6.2/6.5 diesel. They are very effective and are much more affordable than any other option I found. Also notice the 3rd mount on passanger side of the Jeep, it is where the factory VW engine mount ties to the frame.

Weldment that ties adapter plate to engine mounts at the rear of the block. There are (4) of these. You'll see how they work when you see everything sitting in the Jeep in a few weeks.

Completed adapter plate with "ears" for engine mounts and starter hole.

Comparing stock VW flywheel to the custom TDI to AX-15 flywheel. It has a much great friction surface as well as rotating mass. I know it will make the little diesel slower to rev but should make it turbine smooth and easier to "lug" while going off-road.

VW pressure plate vs Jeep/Chrysler pressure plate. Again, a major increase in "swept" area as well as an increase in "moment" due to the large diameter. I don't think I'll have to worry about smoking the Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch no matter what kind of torque I produce in the future.

Finally, the shifter blocks for the Dana 300 transfer case. I am turning it into a twin stick so that I can run in high or low range with either front or rear drive (as well as 4X4). This makes things very nice for all weather conditions.
Thats all for now. I hope to post again in a few weeks with the engine/tranny/etc. in the frame. We'll see if that happens. Thanks for looking.

Man, am I glad I found this thread. I was days away from buying parts for my TDI Jeep.. the plan was to use a ALH mated with an acme adapter, to a AX-15/R150F hybrid trans (ie, R150 input shaft/bellhousing in a AX-15), to an NP231.

Babyrattler, Being that I can't wait a few weeks to see, I'm going to venture a guess: you're using a AX-15 with no modification?

Also, what was the part number for that clutch, and what diameter is it?

The clutch is a 10.4" Centerforce Dual Friction which I purchased through Summit Racing. The Summit part # is CTF-DF193890.

You are correct that the trans is an AX-15 with no mods. Any other questions please send me a private message.

Thanks for looking. Good luck with your project, this is no walk in the park.

Well, the engine is in. I still have a long way to go but this feels pretty good to finally get it to this point. Here are some pics.



Engine with adapter plate and flywheel in place.



Clutch in place.



Engine, transmission, transfer case bolted together.



Package in place, bolted down and ready for more work



Another view showing how much room I will have in front of the engine. This is going to be a wonderful conversion when it is comeplete. Lightweight, compact and efficient. I can't wait!!

Thanks for looking everybody.

Looks great! I can't wait until my project is at this point... Looks like you have enough room for a second engine in there.

Question: What angle is your engine leaned over at? Looks a little more than the stock 20 degrees. I think mine will be close to 30 degrees so I can clear the starter (mine being on the drivers side).

The engine is at 30 degrees to clear the starter. Yes, there is a ton of room left over. I'm sure I'll find something to put in there.

With that huge AMC bellhousing, it looks like that AX-15 is about to swallow the TDI..

babyrattler said:

Yes, there is a ton of room left over. I'm sure I'll find something to put in there.

Click to expand...

What are you planning on using for an intercooler?

The bell housing does look a little out of place but it is nice to have the bigger flywheel and clutch packed in there.

As for an I/C, I was going to go with a water to air unit but I think for now I'll stick with the air to air unit from my 98 Jetta until I find a cost effective water unit. Any ideas???

Why an air to water setup? I was looking at using maybe a Eurojet FMIC, or one of the $200 ebay FMIC kits some people here are using. I'd love to find a Jeep CRD intercooler because they are huge and according to the jeep guys - very thermally efficient, but thusfar I've had no luck.

Think about an Isuzu NPR intercooler. Very large, gassers have run them upwards of 400hp.

I'll check into the Isuzu IC, thanks for the lead.

The reason I was thinking about water to air:
1) Less air plumbing for less air leaks
2) Less air plumbing to pressurize = less boost lag
3) Very easy to mount a dimensionaly thin "water" radiator vs air to air IC.
4) I could go on and on so I'll stop here

I know there are pros/cons on both sides and I need to spend some more time researching but I already have enough to do so this will have to wait. I am willing to take suggestions especially from those who have real world experience.

Thank you all for your input.

TB changes should be a snap... Is the proximity of the starter and turbo a concern?

There appears to be plenty of room for the exhaust to clear the starter. If needed, I will put on a heat shield and all will be well. You are right about easy TB changes. Everything is going to be really easy to get at on this thing so I'm really looking forward to having it as my daily driver.

I meant to ask about the flywheel. Did you have it balanced after it was machined? And how was the ring gear made/attached? I'm assuming it was 'borrowed' off the 4.0L flywheel and heated/shrunk onto your new flywheel?

The flywheel was balanced when the rotating assembly was balanced (on its own). The ring gear is an OEM aftermarket that was heated in an oven to 400 - 450F and then dropped on to the -0F flywheel. As I recall I had about .001 to .002" per 1" diameter of interference fit. Hopefully it is locked on tight. I'll find out in a few weeks.

This is great. I would love to through a ALH into a XJ or TJ

Do you care to share the Cad files for the flywheel or the adapter?

My intent was to prove out the package and then sell the package or components for 10 or 20% over cost to try and recoupe the cost of the project. The way the package is designed it will work for CJs/Wranglers/Cherokees or even AC Cobra kit cars if that is what floats your boat. I will let you know what the components are going to cost once I have completed and proven it out. Thank you for showing interest.

I am also drooling over this project. I had a 79 cj-5 that I restored from the frame up. I kept the 4.2 (256) which had a lot of low end tq. Didn't know about the TDIs at the time and gas was cheap!

I had used a torch to heat my ring gear, and hammer it on the flywheel, never had any issues after that.

looks great! just put a diesel in my wrangler, can't wait to see your outcome!

I'll definitely be interested in a bellhousing/flywheel since I don't have the means to make one, and absolutely NOBODY around here seems to have any interest in making up something for me..

Bolt Patterns

Great looking swap.
The AX15 uses a six cylinder bolt pattern, correct?
Just a thought.
But may be you should drill the adapter plate for a SBC bell housing also, if you plan on selling the kits.
The file should be pretty easy to come by.
I haven't had a Jeep transmission in my Scrambler for 20 years.
I like the Idea of a monster flywheel for low speed crawling with a 120 to one crawl ratio hp is not an big deal.

kekle

I don't think the size of the flywheel affects gear ratios.. The weight of the flywheel will help while off-roading, but diameter has nothing to do with it..

Inertia

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inertia

kekle said:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inertia

Click to expand...

Ya I know about inertia and how it affects a running engine, I build engines dude... But diameter has NOTHING to do with weight... My big block has a 14.25" diameter flywheel that weighs 7lbs... My TDI flywheel weighs 22lbs and is significantly smaller in diameter... Which flywheel is better for off-roading? The HEAVY one of course..


SO I'll say it again, flywheel diameter has nothing to do with gearing or rock crawling, or inertia for that matter..

Pissin contest

Dude
I'm not trying to get in a pissing contest with you.
I'm just sayin that if you have two flywheels of the same weight the bigger diameter one will store more energy due to its longer arm.
I use a 14" flywheel on my SBC for this reason.
I don't need the clamping power, heck I hardly ever touch the gas offroad.
I just chug along and watch everybody else break stuff.
After 30 years of jeepin I have found gearing is king.
Have fun
Cecil