No throttle response / Intermittant / poor start

Had an issue this past week while driving my car into work. EGR system is removed with the intention of getting a tune to correct the CEL.

However while driving in one morning, experienced no throttle when trying to take off at a green light (car still idling fine no issues). Cycled On/Off and was on my way. This kept occurring several times during my drive. At one point the glow plug light came on and began to flash which has stayed that way since and the MFD let's you know there is an Engine Fault. Along with this while applying the brake I do not have throttle (I rev-match when down shifting). Lastly since this episode the car doesn't start immediately like it used to.

So here are the codes I have thus far. Just want some opinions on where to start / look. My time is valuable and it's cold in the garage!

001025 - EGR System
P0401 - 000 - Insufficient Flow
009573 - Turbocharger Boost Control Position Sensor Circuit
[FONT=&quot] P2565 - 000 - Signal too High - Intermittent
[/FONT] 012295 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40)
[FONT=&quot] P3007 - 000 - No Signal - Intermittent
[/FONT] 001602 - Sensor Reference Voltage A: Circuit
[FONT=&quot] P0642 - 000 - Low - MIL ON
[/FONT] 008213 - Intake Manifold Flap Position Sensor (Bank 1)
P2015 - 000 - Implausible Signal
005269 - Switch-Over Valve for EGR Cooler (N345)
[FONT=&quot] P1495 - 000 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent
[/FONT] 008214 - Intake Manifold Flap Position Sensor (Bank 1)
[FONT=&quot] P2016 - 000 - Short to Ground

Any pointers and insight is appreciated! Thanks![/FONT]

Delayed start is probably a byproduct of the inoperative camshaft sensor.
You have quite a group of engine weirdness and it could be a bad ground common to them but it could also be a chafed wiring harness as many of these cars develop in the area under the air box.

Yes, my plan is to make sure the ASV is actually cycling. Then checking for wire chafing as that appears to be a common issue. I'll try tearing into it tonight see if I find anything.

Well I had chafing on the wire harness. However that hasn't resolved the ASV issue. I'm still receiving 2 codes (shown below). Does anyone know the voltage/resistance I should be seeing out of each of the leads in the harness or on the pins for the ASV? Any help would be appreciated!

2 Faults Found:

008214 - Intake Manifold Flap Position Sensor (Bank 1)
P2016 - 000 - Short to Ground
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 357955 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 00:21:08

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Load: 0.0 %
Voltage: 12.01 V
Mass Air / Rev.: 0.0 mg/str
Duty Cycle: 95.1 %
Bin. Bits: 00000000

001602 - Sensor Reference Voltage A: Circuit
P0642 - 000 - Low - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 357955 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 00:21:08

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Bin. Bits: 00100000
Bin. Bits: 00000000
Bin. Bits: 00100000
Bin. Bits: 00100000
[FONT=&quot] Bin. Bits: 00000000[/FONT]

Well, I believe I still have an harness issue and I think I've come to the conclusion that the harness must be replaced. I've checked the voltage at the ASV plug with key on and the voltages do not match the voltage as others have indicated they should be at. Now I'm just looking for the best place to pick up a harness and finding time and warmth to do it.

The following thread has been helpful:
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=419835&highlight=ASV+voltage

Getting it through an on-line VW dealer is the best price option.
VWparts2go.com is just one of many out there. Include the VIN in the order.

JETaah said:

Getting it through an on-line VW dealer is the best price option.
VWparts2go.com is just one of many out there. Include the VIN in the order.

Click to expand...

Wise move on the new harness.

Well new harness in, and still no luck on the ASV. The voltage doesn't match what I have seen posted in other threads for readings at the ASV pigtail.

Terminals 1 to 3 should be approx 5v (I'm reading 0.9v)
Terminals 4 to 5 should be approx 4.35v (I'm reading none)
Terminals 2 to 3 should be approx 5.01v (I'm reading none)

I don't know where to go from here...is there a fuse or relay that would be bad? Any info or help is be GREATLY appreciated.

I had the same problem!! it was the LIFT PUMP in the fuel tank!!!

Strider17 said:

I had the same problem!! it was the LIFT PUMP in the fuel tank!!!

Click to expand...

How would lift pump affect the voltage at the ASV? That doesn't seem to make sense to me.

If you had a frayed harness it is very likely to have a blown fuse somewhere in the system. A quick look at engine controls alone pops up about 15 different fuses for different controls.

The best way I know to check fuses is to leave them in place and probe both sides of each fuse with a test light, with the key turned on. If there is power on only one side, obviously a blown fuse. If no power on either side it may be a light fuse, or something else not turned on. Consult your manual there and if possible turn the component on to check for power, then move on.

If all fuses are good, backtrack the circuit you are concerned about on your wiring diagram and test for power at each connection along the way till you find the interruption.

Hint, before you pull any fuses, take a photo as what is published in Bentley's & the manual may be different than what is in your car.

Well I double checked both harness connections at the ECU. I also checked all of the grounds, and leads headed into the fuse box. I didn't find anything wrong in the fuse box. Found a copy of the Bentley Fuse layout for post-July 2006 (my car is a December 2016 build). Everything matched, looked clean, and no issues with burnt fuses. So turn the key on and double check the voltages at the ASV pigtail again and here is what I have....



Not sure where to go from here.

Keep us updated on what you find. I am going to start inspecting my harness as well. I have a hard start with a P2112 code. I found some chaffing going to the ASV valve, but it looked to be just through the insulation and not cut any of the wires yet. I ordered a ASV so I will replace that as well, because its been giving me problems as well. It usually takes me a few minutes of cranking before mine turns over.

Well different ECU didn't fix it. Thought was possibly the ECU was damaged during the wire harness chafe. There is a short/poor ground somewhere and I'm not finding it. I've put in a different ECU with immobilizer delete and I get the same voltage readings as with the original ECU as the ASV pigtail. I'm at a loss of what to do next.

Here is what VCDS is telling me:

1 Fault Found:
008214 - Intake Manifold Flap Position Sensor (Bank 1)
P2016 - 000 - Short to Ground
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 357955 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 00:03:40
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Load: 0.0 %
Voltage: 12.24 V
Mass Air / Rev.: 0.0 mg/str
Duty Cycle: 95.1 %
Bin. Bits: 00000000

Readiness: 0 0 0 0 1

My car has been back on the road now for over a week. Long story short here is my journey:
-Replaced Wire Harness (original one showed signs of significant chafing)
-Purchased used ECU & had immobilizer deleted
After each replacement I still had the same code coming up for ASV or I wasn't getting the proper readings at the ASV Pigtail.

At a loss of what to do I managed to limp my car into a VW Dealer whom I was an acquaintance with a Service Manager. He had is best mechanic take a look at it and he was stumped as well.
Here was what happened:
-Replaced Wire Harness [suspected the harness I had put in was potentially incorrect and giving the wrong readings/voltage] (improved voltage reading, however not the fix)
-Tried alternate ECU from customer [immobilizer deleted] (no difference / fix)
-Tested a new ASV (no difference / fix)
-Replaced ECU with new VW ECU (no difference / fix)
VW Dealer Service Manager & Technician issued bulletin to regional VW Dealer Network for this issue searching for a fix or correction. Response was disconnect the accelerator pedal and test ASV circuit for proper voltage readings. (Accelerator Pedal was the issue!)
-Replaced Accelerator Pedal assembly with new one (Issue Resolved/Fixed)

The VW Service Manager & Technician don't understand why the accelerator pedal would cause an interruption to the ASV circuit but they were going to check further to find any answers. Apparently this happened to one other car in the Mid-West region through a VW dealer. Glad I wasn't the only one stumped and happy to have my TDI wheels back!