2000 Jetta No Start

Ok here is the situation, I bought this jetta for my step son from a buddy who had the timing belt break on him. Minor damage to the head. The car sat for almost a year and a half and here is where we are at. The head has been replaced with a re-manufactured. Complete with new camshaft. We replaced the water pump, all the tensioners, and pulleys on the front. all the gaskets for the top end as well were replaced. I have bled the fuel system, and replaced relay 109. I can not get this thing to start for the life of me. I have included the vag-com results at the bottom of the post. Any help would be appreciated. I am a skilled mechanic but this one has me stumped. The results show the Fuel Shutoff solenoid open or short to ground, I have that bypassed at the moment to verify fuel flow which I have.(it was an initial problem). We also replaced the battery after the car sat dead for a good portion of a year. I also used fresh fuel to make sure there isn't an issue with water or gelling.

VIN: 3VWRF29M1YM004569 License Plate:
Mileage: 390710km-242775mi Repair Order: 00001
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Chassis Type: 9M - VW Jetta IV (1998 > 2014)
Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 15 16 17 19 22 29 35 36 37 39 46 47 55 56 57
75 76
Mileage: 390710km/242775miles
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Address 01: Engine Labels: 038-906-012-AGR.lbl
Part No: 038 906 012 BD
Component: 1,9l R4 EDC G000SG 2507
Coding: 00002
Shop #: WSC 00066
VCID: 53A599C7A1009386791-4A3A
1 Fault Found:
17946 - Fuel Shutoff Solenoid (N109)
P1538 - 35-00 - Open or Short to Ground
Readiness: 0 0 1 0 1
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Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 1J0-907-37x-ABS.lbl
Part No: 1J0 907 379 P
Component: ABS 20 IE CAN 0001
Coding: 03504
Shop #: WSC 00066
VCID: 3E73D8733A826EEEA6F-49D8
No fault code found.
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Address 15: Airbags Labels: 6Q0-909-605-VW5.lbl
Part No: 6Q0 909 605 A
Component: Z9 AIRBAG VW5 0003
Coding: 23097
Shop #: WSC 00066
VCID: 3561C75F0FB4ADB6775-49D8
2 Faults Found:
00532 - Supply Voltage B+
07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent
01217 - Side Airbag Igniter; Driver Side (N199)
32-10 - Resistance Too High - Intermittent
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Address 17: Instruments Labels: 1J0-920-xx0-17.lbl
Part No: 1J0 920 900 L
Component: A4-KOMBIINSTR. VDO V54
Coding: 07242
Shop #: WSC 00066
VCID: 2B55E127D9F0EB46111-5072
Subsystem 1 - Part No: IMMO
Component: IDENTNR: VWZ7Z0X1303630
IMMO-IDENTNR: VWZ7Z0X1303630
1 Fault Found:
01316 - ABS Control Module
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent
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Address 19: CAN Gateway Labels: 6N0-909-901-19.lbl
Part No: 6N0 909 901
Component: Gateway K<->CAN 0001
Coding: 00006
Shop #: WSC 00066
VCID: F0EFB64BB056489EE43-5072
1 Fault Found:
01316 - ABS Control Module
49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 35: Centr. Locks Labels: 1C0-962-258-II.lbl
Part No: 1C0 962 258 P
Component: 0J Zentr.Verriegel. 0001
Coding: 04096
Shop #: WSC 00066
VCID: 3467FA5B04CEB4BE40B-4A9C
2 Faults Found:
00849 - S-contact at Ignition/Starter Switch (D)
25-10 - Unknown Switch Condition - Intermittent
00953 - Interior Light Time limit
25-10 - Unknown Switch Condition - Intermittent
End ---------------------------------------------------------------------

Have you double checked your injection pump timing to be certain the pin goes in the hole and not in the tricky spot slightly counterclockwise of the hole?

From the Ross Tech wiki-
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17946/P1538

I have double and triple checked the timing just to make sure. Pin goes right in and everything is TDC with the pin in.

BobnOH said:

From the Ross Tech wiki-
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17946/P1538

Click to expand...

I have checked all the connection to and from the Fuel shutoff solenoid. The reason that code is there is because I had it bypassed when I ran my Vag-com checks. The solenoid is fine, even pulled it and tested it out of the pump.

How well is fuel squirting out when you crack an injector line? You can get fuel, but that doesn't mean that you're getting enough, getting at sufficient pressure to get the injectors to dump the fuel.

Verify your ASV isn't stuck closed.

If the starter is weak and can't turn the engine at the proper RPM, it won't inject fuel causing a no start.

UhOh said:

How well is fuel squirting out when you crack an injector line? You can get fuel, but that doesn't mean that you're getting enough, getting at sufficient pressure to get the injectors to dump the fuel.

Verify your ASV isn't stuck closed.

Click to expand...

I will look into the ASV tonight. We did clean it when it was off the engine but i never did a function check beyond making sure it moved by hand.

Strykeviper I'm not sure what the minimum rpms are for starting but it seems to be spinning over at a good rate. I'll have to look at that tonight as well. I have a charger with a 50amp jump start that I use when trying to get it up and running. I don't want to kill the battery.

Something another guy just ran into this week was he was missing power on Pin 2 at the ECU connector. HERE.

You can read the whole thread, but you can also skip down to post #63. Please let us know what you find.

Two other things: That hole for the IP can be tricky and can get to the best of mechanics if they aren't familiar with it. A mirror can be your friend here to verify you are seeing what you are feeling.

And if you have any doubts about if the injection pump is bled, you can hook up an IV of good, clean fuel. My IV is a modified sprayer jug so I can pressurize it.

OP, how was the car stored while sitting? It's quite possible that corrosion is contributing to your problems here. Of course, verify the fuel delivery: this is low-hanging-fruit stuff, especially when compared to electrical issues!

whitedog, love the IV solution! (ugh, PUN!)

Ok Verified the ASV isn't stuck closed and functions normally, Starter is getting good RPMs so don't think speed turning over is an issue. When I crack a line to the injectors or from the IP I get plenty of fuel flowing from it. So I think I have good fuel flow. I will check Pin #2 to the ECU tomorrow. To answer the question about storage. The car sat in a yard for over a year without a cover. It also had the top half off. When I went through and put everything back together I was diligent about cleaning corrosion and rust from everything that wasn't new. One thing I'm not sure of is how to test the Injectors themselves.

simply put, your timing is most likely off. check that you didnt use the 'dummy' hole when doing the IP timing.

Timing off or the injectors are plugged. Remove one, hook it up to the fuel line and have a buddy crank it over, see if the fuel sprays out in a nice mist. Protect your eyes and NO OPEN flame.

IIRC, the 12 o'clock pin alignment is 12 o'clock from the top of the pump, not 12 o'clock facing the pump. The alignment hole as you face the pulley end of the pump is at the 1 o'clock position. If all else fails, unbolt the pulley and look to see where the the locator hole actually is. The 30 degrees the pin could be off will be enough for the engine to not to start. Just my 0.02