What is your best method for removing a stripped triple square bolt?

highmileage

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I went to change the passenger side axle the other day and got to the flange with the six triple square 12 point bolts. The first two came out very easily, but when I got to the third the bit just spun in the head of the bolt. I got that sinking feeling and on close inspection I could see that the bolt was stripped inside the head. If the bolt were more easily accessible maybe a vice grip pliers could get it out. So my question is what is your best technique to get the bolt out of the transmission flange after it has been stripped? Thanks in advance for your input.
 

Windex

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Drill/grind/cut the head off if you can get a tool in there, or vise grips on the side of the bolt head.
 

Alcancia

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Seriously though, all other methods leave you with a chance of not getting it out and you'll end up messing things up worse and then drilling and re-tapping anyway. Just start with a left hand drill bit and get it over with, easy and clean.

Similar to this video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0j0Kbu_qdYk&sns=em

Or this one, except that with a recessed pocket for the triple square to center your bit, you don't have to worry about the centering drill:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FYvaPbX1sT4&sns=em

EDIT: Or my new favorite:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1aM-Tw8PkQI&sns=em
 
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Windex

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If you cut the bolt head off, what chance is there of not getting it out? :confused:

That and it would have to be a pretty long left hand drill bit - and they're not cheap.
 

1854sailor

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If you cut the bolt head off, what chance is there of not getting it out? :confused:

That and it would have to be a pretty long left hand drill bit - and they're not cheap.
Unless the bolt is rusted in place, cutting the head off will release the tension on the bolt and it should back right out.
 

Alcancia

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If you cut the bolt head off, what chance is there of not getting it out? :confused:
Cutting off the head of the bolt doesn't get the bolt out. :confused:

Sure, cut the bolt head off and you'll get the axle out. What about the rest of the bolt though? You still have to get that out. Then you're relying on using vice-grips, grinding a slot for a flat screwdriver, or some other similar method to grab a pretty small area on the bolt. If the threads are seized/rusted/thread-locked, then it may be pretty difficult. Then that tiny surface gets buggered and you can't get a good bite with vice-grips any more. Or worse, the bolt breaks right at the base of the flange. Then you're pulling out the drill anyway to try an easy-out, and that snaps off in the bolt. Then you're way screwed. I'd still put money down that a LH bit would be your saving grace in that situation too.

I'm not saying any other method won't work. It's just my opinion that LH bits are the easiest and quickest with the least potential for worsening an already bad situation. End of the day with a stripped bolt, you'll end up drilling it out if everything else fails anyway. Might as well start with the last resort and save the time.
 

Windex

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I guess we'll have to agree to disagree.

As a mechanic who spent 10 years turning wrenches for a living, cutting the bolt head off then backing the remainder out with vicegrips is way faster and cheaper than a hard to find, expensive extended length LH bit.
 

1854sailor

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Cutting off the head of the bolt doesn't get the bolt out. :confused:
As I stated above, once the head is off and the tension in the bolt is relieved, you can probably back the rest of the bolt out with your fingers.

...It's just my opinion that LH bits are the easiest and quickest with the least potential for worsening an already bad situation…
Yes, maybe if the transmission was out of the car it might be the easiest and quickest. Do us a favor. Jack up your Passat, pull off a front wheel and take a look at where the bolt in question is located. How do you propose to get a drill in there without completely disassembling the suspension?
 

1854sailor

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So, I just looked at the YouTube videos posted above. In the first video, the screw was a small diameter Philips threaded into an aluminum casting. Not much torque required to back the screw out. In the second video, there was no head on the stud being removed, so no tension on the threads. Again, not much torque required. However, in the OP's case he has a bolt which, if it was installed correctly, was torqued to 77 Nm. My guess is that when the left hand drill bit grabs, it will snap right off. :eek:

Good idea in the right application, just not this one...
 

Alcancia

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As I stated above, once the head is off and the tension in the bolt is relieved, you can probably back the rest of the bolt out with your fingers.
As you also stated above, that's fine and dandy without consideration for rust or thread-locker holding the threads. Hopefully that's not the case for the OP and your method will be perfect. I'm not saying it won't work. He asked for preferred methods and I'm just stating mine.

Yes, maybe if the transmission was out of the car it might be the easiest and quickest. Do us a favor. Jack up your Passat, pull off a front wheel and take a look at where the bolt in question is located. How do you propose to get a drill in there without completely disassembling the suspension?
Once I'm home from work, I guess I'll have to take a picture for you. My Passat is currently on stands with the wheels off. I just barely pulled my axles as part of a 5 speed swap I've been doing over the last couple of weekends. I used my impact gun to pull the flange bolts out. I'm pretty sure a normal sized cordless with a normal length drill bit would work just fine. I could be wrong though, I may have used an extension on my impact. Either way though, nothing with the suspension was in the way.

Just imagining the time to drill one hole part way into the bolt head versus the time to grind off the entire head, I think the drill would be faster. Then there's the risk of nicking those weight balanced CV axles with the grinder. Then, if the threads are seized, you'll be grabbing the drill anyway.

Again, not saying what you guys are suggesting won't work. In this case, I have no doubts it would be perfect. I'm not trying to be argumentative either, just explaining why I have the opinion I have. It's just what I would do if it were me; and based on 7 years of mechanic experience and the past few years as an engineer maintaining airbag production equipment, the LH drill bit would be MY "best method."
 

Danielg42

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I use these all of the time to get the triple squares out if they are stripped. Pound them on then take the bolt out with a ratchet. Works every time. Even in tight places.
Another vote for the socket style bolt extractors... I've even used them on non stripped triple squares, where I didn't have the right size available or was worried about stripping them.
 

johnboy00

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Wow, It's gotten a little testy here. When I did mine, I unscrewed it with my fingers. I agree, if your a mechanic, it might be a good investment to get an extractor set. I am not amechanic and this is not a rusted exhaust bolt; it's very easy to remove with an angle grinder. I'm not sure you could get a drill in it, unless it was a rt angle drill.


In any event, I'm just giving my experience, take it or leave it.
 

VWWF

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As I was tapping on a #10 extractor from the Craftsman set, my stripped out axle to transmission XZN / Triple Square broke loose. I guess the extractor jammed up against the CV housing and as I tapped on it, the counter rotating grippers twisted the Triple Square Bolt CCW. After that I was able to remove the bolt by hand.
 

Brian's96TDIPASSAT

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I have found stripped out Tri squares on axles more times than I can remember. Every one I got out by simply using a die grinder with a 2/32 or so disc cutting a slot about 1/4 deep, then grabbing my trusty air hammer with a sharp chisel and hammering it counter clock wise. Loosens it right up, then simply use a flat blade screw driver bit and loosen it. From stripped to removed maybe 2 minutes.
 

highmileage

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Bolt out

Saw this post reopened and decided to add that I did use the bolt out type extractor. Simple and successful.
 

Uberhare

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Too many.
Lots of different methods seem to work fine for this. Use what you have available that works! I've even been stuck at someone else's place without much for tools and used a good sharp chisel and BFH... Most FWD cars I can get my channel lock 410's in there. Now those are the cat's ass if you have room to get onto any stripped bolt!
 
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Brian's96TDIPASSAT

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Lots of different methods seem to work fine for this. Use what you have available that works! I've even been stuck at someone else's place without much for tools and used a good sharp chisel and BFH... Most FWD cars I can get my channel lock 410's in there. Now those are the cat's ass if you have room to get onto any stripped bolt!
LOL, that's pretty much how I described but using air and as my buddy calls it, your primary tool of destruction. My air hammer has gotten us out of so many tough spots, stripped bolts, ball joint replacement, bushing replacement etc. Thinking of buying a spare since mine is like 30yrs old
 

DeliveryValve

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Hate those triple square axle bolts. My triple squares head were buggered out after multiple boot replacements. So I replaced them all with M10 - 1.5 x 20 Allen Head 12.9 grade bolts. Sooooo much better now R&Ring them.


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Uberhare

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Too many.
I've never had a problem with triple square bolts using a good quality bit, providing no one else has buggered them prior. Too many people don't take the time to clean out the hole, use an impact or worn/cheap tools.
 

DeliveryValve

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I have no issues with using triple squares on cylinder heads or one use type of deals.

But with multiple R&R’s, Allen type bolts just fit the tool so much more firmly than a triple square that it reduces the chance that the bolt head becomes buggered.

Good point in the use of a quality tool to minimize buggering the bolt head. But, a quality tool cost much more than my 90 cents each 12.9 grade Allen Bolts and Allen socket set from Harbor Freight.


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