Here's an article
https://www.efficientplantmag.com/2008/07/how-clean-is-the-new-oil-in-your-equipment/
I have (somewhere) oil analysis of new and used oil from my TDI that had particle counts showing that the new oil was within one ISO code (see article) of the used oil with more than 10k miles on it. I've spent an hour looking and can't come up with it right now - If I find it, I'll share. I've also done several particle counts on new oils for shops and they don't come back "clean"
Look in the bottom of the jug next time after it's empty and see how much stuff is down there. There's usually a few particles you can see (and many you can't).
The particles that do much of the damage are in the 5-15 micron range which is right around what bearing clearances and oil films are. These are not visible to the human eye. Particles (like soot) that are <1 micron and don't pose any real issue. Anything you can see (typically >40 micron) is much bigger than most of the clearances and just can't get in to cause much damage. The risk with larger particles is that they get broken down into smaller ones (see above). Most engine oil filters are in the 15-20 micron range so the larger particles won't continually get recirculated. Filters also increase efficiency the more plugged they get (they're not absolute devices) so changing that also reduces it's effectiveness. The filters are generally oversized for cold start conditions that they never get near plugged during normal service. If they do, there's other bigger problems.
You can have perfectly clear looking oil that will destroy an engine and black oil that is amazingly clean - how it visually looks is not a great indicator of cleanliness. If you can see it, there's already a big problem.
I know most of the above is just me sharing my experiences and you don't have to believe me. There is so little real data on this subject and so much emotion that it's nearly an impossible task to change someone's mind. If you want to do it right, you'll need about 10 oil analysis kits that include an ISO particle count, some patience and understanding of what the data will tell you and how to interpret it. It's not a simple black and white/good or bad topic.
Change your oil, send in a sample along with a sample of new oil making sure you use proper oil sampling procedures.
At 5k miles, do it again, repeating the new oil sample again (preferably from the same container). If it comes back unacceptably dirty in your opinion, then you need to either reduce your OCI or eliminate the source of contamination. If it's good, then do another at 7.5k, and again at 10k, 15k, 20k, etc until the DATA shows that the oil is breaking down, it's getting too dirty, etc. If the new oil samples come back with significantly different results and you've been following good sample prep procedures, then it's time to call out the lab and ask them to explain the discrepancy. This is not cheap nor easy to do. You'll probably have $500 and many hours learning about how to interpret wear analysis, ISO codes, etc.
I went through all this on my car and run 20+k OCI's and have more/less zero contamination related wear, though I run a 1micron bypass filter as well.
One last point on oil analysis - getting ones that provide an ISO code is a bit more difficult, and sometimes cost more money. Most just do an IR scan of wear metals and that's it. By the time you have wear metals showing up in your oil - it's too late - damage is done. If the oil is clean (and assuming the engine was designed correctly) then there won't be any wear metals to see. Particle contamination will always proceed wear metals, so make sure it's clean and there's not much to worry about.