Royal Purple 15w40 in Mk7 TDI

I just purchased my 2015 Golf TDI SEL and took in for an Oil Change. Dealer had over filled oil and I wasn't positive they had changed it vs topping it off.
I splurged and went with the Royal Purple 15w40 but after getting back to work am not seeing this as a VW approved oil. I am very concerned so called store and they said they use that alot in TDI's. Am I safe or should I return and have it drained asap? Thanks

You need to put in a 507 spec 5W-30 oil.

I'd drain it and put in the correct oil.

I was hoping someone would say it's ok to use. No one?

I’ll say it’s okay to use, if you want to damage your emissions equipment and possible increase wear on the engine.

You’d be fine driving for a bit, not like you’d have to tow it to a place and drop the oil immediately.

Stick with 507, or any DPF approved oil,.

With a bit of googling I see nothing to suggest it is a low ash oil that is compatible with diesel particulate filters.

I wouldn’t use it.

My main issue is it's Thankgiving and I'm leaving town after work, now getting 3rd oil change in 2 days on car I bought 2 days ago is what I call BS. I would expect the Dealer, or an Oil change shop to get it right. I guess I am wrong. Thanks

This is what it says on RP's page.
Royal Purple 15W-40 is a high performance synthetic
engine oil made especially for vehicles equipped with
EPA ’07 and EPA ’10 compliant engines. These engines
are fueled with Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel (ULSD) and
require the use of Low Ash engine oils, to protect the
installed emissions equipment, including DPFs, catalytic
converters, EGR and SCR injection.
Royal Purple 15W-40 motor oil has proven to offer
excellent performance to maximize component life,
extend drain intervals and improve fuel performance.
Made with high performance synthetic base stocks,
Royal Purple 15W-40 has excellent high temperature
break down resistance and low temperature pumpability
to minimize cold induced startup wear. The stable
additive package has good soot dispersancy to protect
against oil thickening and abrasive wear. It also provides
rust and corrosion protection and helps prevent varnish
and sludge formulation.
OEM RECOMMENDATIONS
Royal Purple 15W-40 should be considered where
the following OEM specifi cations are recommended:
- API CJ-4 / SN
- ACEA E5 / E7
- CAT ECF-3
- Cummins CES 20081
- DDC Power Guard 93K218
- Mack EO-0 Premium Plus
- Renault VI RLD-3
- Volvo VDS-4
Royal Purple 15W-40 can also be used in older diesel
engines, including off highway engines still using the
500 ppm sulfur diesel fuels.

smorris65 said:

My main issue is it's Thankgiving and I'm leaving town after work, now getting 3rd oil change in 2 days on car I bought 2 days ago is what I call BS. I would expect the Dealer, or an Oil change shop to get it right. I guess I am wrong. Thanks

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Yes, you are wrong in expecting the dealer, and especially a quickee lube type shop to get it right. That 15w-40 won't do any immediate damage, but it is too thick for cool weather. I'd drain it into a clean container and use it in the lawnmower.

smorris65 said:

My main issue is it's Thankgiving and I'm leaving town after work, now getting 3rd oil change in 2 days on car I bought 2 days ago is what I call BS. I would expect the Dealer, or an Oil change shop to get it right. I guess I am wrong. Thanks

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Dealer - 75% chance of getting it right,

Oil change shop - 5% chance and I'm being generous.

Thanks everyone. It's settled, I'll go get it changed. I'll be changing it myself in the future like I've always done on all my vehicles, but did this because of the dealers over fill mistake and wanted to get it right asap. Someone said use it in the lawnmower and I thought that was funny because I changed my lawnmower oil for the first time in 10 years this summer. I don't care as much about a mower.

I went back and they drained the Oil then started putting some Mobile 1. I looked at it was synthetic diesel truck oil, I told them that's not what I need. The guy wanted to argue with me saying that what he puts in all TDI's. It did not say VW 50700. He wanted to use VW 50500 saying it was the same so had a shop bring that over. I had to get on the phone and finally found a place that had Liqui Moly Top Tec 4200 5W-30 and had it delivered. It does say VW 50700. Anyone familiar with this oil? So, I paid $100 for an oil change and they lost 5 quarts of Royal Purple, 2 Quarts of Mobile One, then had to pay for this. I think they lost money on this deal and forever changed me from using a Kwik Kar or any other lube center. Thanks for all your help.

Because of the above is why most of us here change our own oil or go to a shop that knows what it is doing.

For next time

https://www.amazon.com/Total-188058...id=1511418313&sr=8-1&keywords=507.00+oil&th=1

Too late now but I am going to disagree with every poster on this page. While not being my first choice it is a low ash oil which is the main sticking point for many oils in a 507.00 spec. I would have run it a few thousand miles and had no worry as far as the diesel smog equipment. Since PAO and ester based synthetics have better cold pour points than the factory fill class III Castrol hydrotreat then that shouldn't be a worry unless you are talking sub zero temperatures. You will also enjoy better shear properties and Noack with the RP over most 507.00 synthetics approved by VW. I highly recommend true 100% synthetic oils over anything labeled Full Synthetic nowadays. I believe maybe Motul is the only VW 507.00 100% synthetic out there. Amsoil, Red Line, MPT and other boutique low ash oils which are definitely better than most VW approved oils but they may cause warranty issues down the line if VW can possibly blame someone else for any problems in their pollution reduction systems. So do your homework and make an informed decision for future changes.

The cold pour point and viscosity are completely different measures. Molasses has a much lower pour point than water, but it's a heck of a lot thicker at any temp above the pour point of water. Too thick oil will increase startup wear dramatically.

I agree with sloinker, particulaly since it's a low SAPs oil.

It would probably be fine to run for the weekend but it's not an oil I would want to run all winter.

I agree I should do my homework. But I bought a used car with 29k miles and dealer changed the oil, and over filled it. It was a long drive to that dealer to pickup so not possible to make it back for this. If they over filled, and I don't know they used the rights kind of oil, or even if they changed it. From reading the specs I thought RP would be OK, but with it being my 1st TDI and the home work I have done tell's me I must speak VW Greek to understand most of the comments being made in regards to checking things. I didn't want a dead motor sooner than later. My previous 2015 Civic Coupe was just totaled and I needed a car fast, and I drive a lot of miles so need it to be dependable. And actually, wanted a TDI when I got the Honda but they would not sell me one. Better safe than sorry. I've always done all maintenance on my vehicles and this one has me a little intimidated. I will make sure to always use what VW spec call's for. Also, I am in Dallas Texas, so maybe a couple below freezing days a year. If anyone is able I would appreciate a link to best cabin filter, intake air filter, and fuel filter for my future reference I'd appreciate that. I found this info the other day but am unable to find again after locating recommended maintenance intervals. Y'all have a blessed Thanksgiving.

The Tortoise said:

You need to put in a 507 spec 5W-30 oil.

I'd drain it and put in the correct oil.

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Sounds like mixed messages to me.

turbobrick240 said:

Sounds like mixed messages to me.

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Ha!

Not exactly.

I would drain it if it was my car.

Can it be be run for a short period with minimal damage, likely. Especially since he's in Dallas where the daytime highs are 25 degrees (C) warmer than where I am at.

The Tortoise said:

Ha!

Not exactly.

I would drain it if it was my car.

Can it be be run for a short period with minimal damage, likely. Especially since he's in Dallas where the daytime highs are 25 degrees (C) warmer than where I am at.

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Yeah, I was just teasing. I agree, especially now that I see he is in Dallas. I had assumed he was located in the mid Atlantic area based on the sig. Seems the issue is resolved anyhow. Happy thanksgiving!

Oh, no offense taken. And I definitely realized I was doubling back on my comments.

aja8888 said:

Dealer - 75% chance of getting it right,
Oil change shop - 5% chance and I'm being generous.

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One time I *had* to take it to a Firestone car care place (3000km from home and interval was up), and I was "that guy" - the one who said "show me the oil you'll use"; "show me the filter"; and then positioned himself to watch the whole procedure (wasn't looking at my phone or otherwise distracted); asked what torque they were going to use on the drain bolt.

And that was on my 2003 TDI, where I'd suggest the margin for error is a lot less than in the 2015.

And to their credit, the guys (and girl) in the shop were all pretty cool - didn't seem annoyed with me, and actually seemed interested (or pretended really well) when I was telling them about the bigger turbo/injectors, explaining a couple of the skid plate saved my car stories; getting 800miles on a tank of fuel, blah, blah, blah.

The 15w-40 is not ideal but for a couple thousand miles in mild weather won't cause any issues. remember that Poyolester oils are polar and never abandon the bearing surfaces so oil starvation on bearings is non existent for startup applications. It is the oil of choice for top fuel dragsters where G-forces inhibit the lubrication of the rotating components for 3 seconds in a 11000 horsepower motor. As an aside, I used to use the harley davidson factory fill oil in my V-Rod and the oil would shear to water after only a thousand miles. I switched to a boutique brand real synthetic POE/PAO and the oil looks and tests like brand new after the 3k interval I use now. The 10k interval on the EA288 engines is too long for the class III faux synthetics recommended by VW IMO. I wouldn't trust them past 5k and hopefully someone will test my theory with some used oil sampling after 10k intervals.

For our humble oil burners, there is really no advantage to using group iv or group iv/v oils vs. a good group iii (like Rotella T6) over a 10k mile interval. Blackstone has the data to back that up.

To the OP: Liqui-Moly Top Tec 4200 is an excellent oil for your EA288. Lots of people use it.

I wouldn't use the 15w40 either, even for a short period of time. That sounds like it's for vehicles with DPFs, but they're trucks. Those engines are entirely different. And Royal Purple uses the same annoying phrase as Amsoil when listing specifications, "should be considered where the following OEM specifications are recommended." Doesn't say it meets any of those specification, just to use it where they're required. So they're not saying what specifications the oil actually meets. I don't know whether or not Royal Purple has a good product, but that phrase alone would cause me to leave it on the shelf. Attempts at deception, no matter how weak, irritate me.

Also, don't read everything in the full/partial synthetic hype.

Per German law for an oil to be labeled full synthetic they have to prove every molecule is synthetically made. The Luqui-Moly & FUCHS engineers I've rubbed shoulders with have been very irritated at that because France (Motul) does not have that same law. Suffice it to say anything that has MEETS 507 on the label is safe to use. "Recommended" for 507 does not meet the spec and should be avoided in all '09+ vehicles.

Liqui-Moly, Pentosin and FUCHS are the only current factory fill suppliers for VW. I figure if VW engineers supplied them with the data on what has to be protected then they are one of (if not the best) oils to run.

And 10k intervals too long? You're showing your oil ignorance there, 10k is if anything conservative. Regardless stick to what the manual says (10K & 507) and you won't go wrong.

YMMV,
-BB

BleachedBora said:

Also, don't read everything in the full/partial synthetic hype.

Per German law for an oil to be labeled full synthetic they have to prove every molecule is synthetically made. The Luqui-Moly & FUCHS engineers I've rubbed shoulders with have been very irritated at that because France (Motul) does not have that same law. Suffice it to say anything that has MEETS 507 on the label is safe to use. "Recommended" for 507 does not meet the spec and should be avoided in all '09+ vehicles.

Liqui-Moly, Pentosin and FUCHS are the only current factory fill suppliers for VW. I figure if VW engineers supplied them with the data on what has to be protected then they are one of (if not the best) oils to run.

And 10k intervals too long? You're showing your oil ignorance there, 10k is if anything conservative. Regardless stick to what the manual says (10K & 507) and you won't go wrong.

YMMV,
-BB

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Did this change? As when I owned my TDI, Castrol was the dealer oil. The LL03 at like $12 a liter.

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk

DEALER oil is correct, VW has had a marketing agreement with Castrol in North America for 20+ years. However the factory fill has been and still is Liqui-Moly, Pentosin and FUCHS. It never has been (to my knowledge) Castrol.
-BB

So when the oil was changed on the 2015's, they drained out the factory fill of good stuff for Castrol..,,pretty dumb. Makes me want to change my oil at 3k on my new golf

thundershorts said:

So when the oil was changed on the 2015's, they drained out the factory fill of good stuff for Castrol..,,pretty dumb. Makes me want to change my oil at 3k on my new golf

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Not sure what you mean here. It's all good. The 507.00 specification is so specific that there honestly isn't a lot of difference between the oils that meet that spec.