2003 Jetta TDI with auto trans - no power

aja8888: I did notice that I could hear the turbo whistle more than I could on my Beetle, but I didn't hear any airflow. I actually found the problem visually as I was inspecting the remainder of the turbo/intercooler plumbing.
I don't know what happened to this car but the pulley chewed a nice groove into the plastic pipe. The hole is very small, but any hole is enough.

Mike Murphy said:

aja8888: I did notice that I could hear the turbo whistle more than I could on my Beetle, but I didn't hear any airflow. I actually found the problem visually as I was inspecting the remainder of the turbo/intercooler plumbing.
I don't know what happened to this car but the pulley chewed a nice groove into the plastic pipe. The hole is very small, but any hole is enough.

Click to expand...

I had the same thing happen in a Jetta I had and it whistled pretty sharply. I guess it depends on the size of the hole.

OK, bought a replacement for the gouged IC pipe from the forum post linked above. Now I wait for delivery.

Ugh! I replaced the obviously leaky IC pipe, (which looks really sweet!) and I'm still getting an underboost fault.

Now suspecting that what I checked on the VNT actuator wasn't a sufficient test. I moved it with my hand and thought I had seen it move on its own. I put a camera under the car and ran the N75 test on VCDS. I did not see any movement. So according to this post I'm thinking it could be:

• N75 vacuum solenoid - nope, I swapped out a known good one from my Beetle.
• Vacuum leaks - Could be. I only replaced the smaller lines, but with the cloth covered OEM-style hose. Not happy with it.
• VNT actuator - I need to test that better.
• Turbo vanes - I hope I don't have to go this far.

I'm going to go get a vacuum pump tool, since I need it for other projects, too and replacement hose. It would be great if after replacing the MAF and the IC pipe, it's only a vacuum leak.

Still wondering how SO MANY issues have occurred on a car in limp mode. I mean isn't it hard to tear sh!t up if the car can't go anywhere?

OK, now I'm confused. I got a hand vacuum pump tool and did some experiments to try to isolate the under boost issue and somethings just don't add up.

First I used the pump to activate the VNT actuator directly. It moves and appears to work. I could take it up to 25 Hg (appers to be the max of the tool) the actuator would contract, I'd then release the vacuum and the actuator would return to its original position.

Then I went through all of the N75 vacuum lines and ensured vacuum. I got 30 Hg before and after the oneway check valve. I got no vacuum at all on either the host to the actuator or the release from the airbox, no matter the engine speed.

I then took measurements from my VCDS (Engine 01: 010 and 011). All along I'd get variable Requested Boost values in relation to engine speed, but of course Actual Boost would remain constant. Thus my under boost fault.

I put the hand pump back on the actuator and brought it up to 12 Hg and throttled up and down again a few times while taking measurements. This time I did get a change in Actual Boost reading, of course less than what it should be because the turbo should only be slightly engaged, but it fluctuated with Engine Speed and Requested Boost.

This behavior suggested a bad N75 solenoid, even though I did a swap out test with a known good one. So I did it again. I got a few minutes of boost then back to constant nothing.

Could it be that the actuator needs adjustment and because at rest it pulls the vanes too far the other direction that the ECU throws the car in limp mode and stops turning on the solenoid? Is this expected behavior?

You're not going to see vacuum from the N75 unless the ECU is commanding boost, something which it won't do without any engine load (not going to happen sitting there revving the engine).

So I should take the VCDS's Requested Boost value as erroneous unless I'm actually driving?

ALL the tuners require you to test via load, 1,500 rpm (or 1,800 rpm) in third gear till redline.

Tee the vacuum pump into the line going to the actuator.
At idle you should have vacuum but not full vacuum.
When you start driving the vacuum drops off.
If no vacuum search the stickys for limp mode.
It has a link with a picture of the vacuum hoses.
Double check them as you indicated swapping the N75

I finally got a chance to work on the car again and discovered that my under boost issues was caused by how I poorly installed the elbow off the IC. I took the bumper and headlight out and got it on good and tight. Now all of my under boost issues are gone and I no longer get any codes from the engine.

Prior to that I rechecked the actuator. 3Hg begins to move it and 18Hg takes it to the stop.

I did do what wonneber suggested and put my vacuum tool on the hose to the actuator. I get a constant 12Hg when running and accelerating, with a brief drop when I let off the accelerator. It was while I was playing with this that I discovered the car going into limp mode for the reason I mentioned above (loose pipe from IC).

So now I have fixed all of the engine issues, but I still can't get this damn car to go over 25-30 MPH.

Of all of the posts I've read about limp mode all seem to suggest that after shutting the car off you get a brief period of normal performance before it goes back to limp mode. This car has never done that. It has consistently been weak and the bad MAF and leaky IC pipe issues didn't seem to make much difference.

I think the remaining issue is the transmission though I get no engine codes from it. When I try to drive the car up on ramps, it will sit and race. I have to get a running start with just enough momentum to get up on them.

From your original post one of your codes is P1556 which is under boost.

From post 40:
I did do what wonneber suggested and put my vacuum tool on the hose to the actuator. I get a constant 12Hg when running and accelerating, with a brief drop when I let off the accelerator.

On mine I also get about the 12 inches vacuum at idle, but it drops off when I start to go.
It was recently explained to me when you start the car the actuator retracts the vanes so you do not get boost and when the vacuum drops it engages them for boost (if I understood it correctly).
There is a hose on the N75 turbo control going to the bottom of the air filter box (through a T on mine).
Check the lines are not plugged, or the passage into the filter box blocked.
Leave to hose off at the filter box and go for a quick ride.

Wonneber: I'm fairly certain that the cause of under boost has been handled. I'm no longer getting the faults.

The fact that I can't get the car to roll forward from a stand still on an incline, even while revving up to 3K RPM, suggests that the remaining problem is in the transmission.

I just got the fluid/filter change kit from ID Parts. I'm going to get acquainted with this 01m and see if I can't charm some more miles out of it.

If you're lucky, it might just be low on transmission oil. If you're not so lucky, the clutches are worn out, and the transmission needs to be rebuilt.

Now you've got an engine that's running properly or so it would seem. So good job on getting there. Now it's time to gather the necessary parts and know how, so you can do the 5 spd swap and get rid of the boat anchor 01m.

Blacktree: I hope you are right. This is a car for my kid and a vast majority of the money put into it is his. Not to mention that he actually needed the car two months ago.

Tdijarhead: Here is what makes me die a little inside about this - I already have a project car where I am trying to swap the ALH from my Beetle into a Suzuki Sidekick. The Beetle had a EBJ transmission and everything I'd need for the Jetta 5-speed swap except the flywheel and clutch, but I have been parting out the Beetle to fund the project and sold the EBJ.

If this were my car, I'd start pulling parts off the Beetle immediately to prepare for the swap and start saving up for a new transmission, flywheel, and clutch (Maybe wheel shafts, too. The ones on the Beetle have been exposed for a while.) However, this car is bought and paid for by my son. His budget can't allow for his dad's gamble to go much further and I can't afford to buy it from him.

If this fix doesn't get it, it'll have go back on the market so he can try to get his money out of it and either someone will get themselves a diamond in the rough or part it out.

OK, I'm halfway through the fluid/filter change, taking a break while it drips, and I don't have a good feeling about this.

Like some of the other things I've fixed on the car so far, the bolts are either too tight or not tight enough and the pan came off too easily. In the bottom of the pan was the filter. There is no telling how many miles the transmission has sucked unfiltered fluid through it or if it has gone that far at all given that I have a feeling that the previous owner was in here mucking around.

Anyhow, I've spent the money (I'm not putting this on the kiddo.) for the fluid/ filter kit, so I'm going to button it all up, fill it, and check the level with my VCDS.

I should know in about an hour or so if my son will be driving it or we'll be selling it.

Man, I thought I had this car figured out. I drove the damn thing for several minutes before today - no codes. I finished the fluid change and went to test drive when the engine throws another intermittent under boost fault again.

I've checked vacuum, solenoid, and actuator. Maybe I need to look at the turbo and clean it up.

I do hear a turbo whistle like what is posted here http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=1744801&postcount=3

I'm running out of time. Kiddo needs a running car before school starts and the lower end of the used market here is full of trash.

Mike, when my turbo area made a whistle sound, i tracked it to a boost leak at the outlet side of the SMIC, which is hard to see because of the loss of visibility afforded by the passenger headlight housing (rear) and the plastic pipe that connects to the short hose at the SMIC.

I don't know if you have done this, but every piece of boost pipe should be removed and inspected carefully if you don't have a way to test the boost pipe under pressure without the engine running.

Hope this helps.

Tony

With the car running you could spray soapy water on the boost pipes, hoses, connections, intercooler & such.
Maybe check if the intake manifold bolts are loose.
Also check it the turbo actuator is working.
When you start the car it should pull the turbo arm at idle.

A little whistle is another leak of some kind.

How did it drive after you got it all back together? There is a member here that is the 01m guru. Coolairvw he has a shop in Kansas City. I believe his website is kansascitytdi.com.

http://kansascitytdi.com/o1m-faq/

He might be able to help. I don't think I read where anyone had mentioned him, or if you have discovered some of his threads.

Changing my fluid gained me another 20k or so miles and when it quit after that I just let it go, the body was so rusted I felt it wasn't worth the effort. I may have been able to gain some additional miles by changing out the selanoids.

aja8888: My next step is to put together a pressure tester to find leaks.

I have the bumper off and headlight out right now because I realized that I didn't tighten the clamp enough around the IC pipe.


Tdijarhead: There was no change in overall performance, but now it seems to catch in forward gear faster (may be wishful thinking on my part).

I'm still trying to interpret what I have been getting from VCDS and what is reality.

I really do wish this were a stick. I know how that behaves in limp mode. The upside is that I've read several posts (here and on other VAG forums) about the 01M, so I've learned to avoid them at all costs in the future unless I add the cost of a 5-speed swap into the price.


wonneber: I may use your soapy water suggestion in conjunction with the pressure tester.

When I bought my 2000 with the 01m there was a bit of a hesitation going into reverse. I had no idea that those transmissions had such a bad reputation. So I just drove it. I talked with another guy who had the same problem we just figured it was a "VW thing".

I bought that car with 142k and the 01m finally died at 331k. You've changed the fluid and done all you can do. Drive it till it dies. You might get 100k or more like I did.

I built a boost leak tester based on this recipe. I took the skinny lower pipe from the turbo to the IC and the IC out and tested those together. No Leaks. I then hooked the IC back up and tested from the IC to the head. No leaks. Go to drive it, no power.

I'm no longer hearing the whistle form the turbo though. So maybe I tightened up whatever leak was there. There is a problem with interference between the 3rd party elbow coming from the IC and the passgr side headlight. I may need to redo that plumbing long term.

Climbing under the car I could see that PO had cut open the cat and welded it back together. I have a feeling that might be my problem. I don't know what they did to that cat, but I'll bet it's clogged.

I have a used downpipe from my Beetle that should fit, I just need to be able to get to the damn bolts on exhaust side of the turbo. I can see two from underneath, but I can't see the top one to access it.

Has anyone had any experience in removing the down pipe without a lift? All I have are ramps.

Should I want to clean the turbo out, can that be done without removing the exhaust manifold? Can't I dump oven cleaner in the EGR port and blow it out with the down pipe off?

Turbo is part of the manifold.
To clean the inside you should take the exhaust side off to clean the vanes and check the ring that moves them.

Refresh my memory.
Did you check if the arm on the turbo moves when you start the car?
Don't know if you can reach it from the top on a beetle.

I've got the ALH out of my Beetle (for another project) on a stand to familiarized myself with where stuff is. It just WAY harder to reach things with the engine in the car. The Beetle was worse on working space, but the Jetta is still a PITA to work on between the engine and firewall.

I got the down pipe off. This thing is pitch black end to end on the inside. It makes the one from the Beetle look clean enough to eat from.

Seems like maybe PO was rolling coal with it and clogged the cat. That might explain the funky settings on the pump timing and some other odd issues. I don't know.

I may cut the Jetta cat back open to see what it looks like inside but I'm definitely going to put the known-good down pipe and cat from the Beetle on the Jetta and see if it makes a difference.

I'm trying like hell to see this car as a bird in the hand, but it keeps sh!tting on me.