Oil Question just purchased a 2010 Jetta TDI sedan

Well here are my $.02 for what its worth... I ran 507.00 Liquimoly up until my delete and then I went to Rotella T-6 on my JSW. I did a Blackstone labs analysis after the first 10K and they were genuinely shocked that it had ran 10K miles. They said based on their baseline numbers, the oil looked to them like it had only ran 3K miles. The TBN was 7.7 which was pretty good for a 10K drain. Overall I have been totally satisfied with the Rotella and plan on running it for the forseeable future.
Now that being said, with my Passat I continue to run the Liquimoly 507 spec as it is still intact...

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/36986967/13 JSW TDI-032015.pdf

skinnyb said:

Well here are my $.02 for what its worth... I ran 507.00 Liquimoly up until my delete and then I went to Rotella T-6 on my JSW. I did a Blackstone labs analysis after the first 10K and they were genuinely shocked that it had ran 10K miles. They said based on their baseline numbers, the oil looked to them like it had only ran 3K miles. The TBN was 7.7 which was pretty good for a 10K drain. Overall I have been totally satisfied with the Rotella and plan on running it for the forseeable future.
Now that being said, with my Passat I continue to run the Liquimoly 507 spec as it is still intact...

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/36986967/13 JSW TDI-032015.pdf

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Sounds fantastic!

Love to see the results but your link is broken

ATR said:

Sounds fantastic!
Love to see the results but your link is broken

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Not sure what is going on. It works fine for me

Okay now it works for me. Great report from them for sure!

SkinnyB, do you have a post delete uoa on a 507 oil?

kydsid said:

SkinnyB, do you have a post delete uoa on a 507 oil?

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Actually no, I did the delete at 47K and changed to Rotella at 50K. I didn't get an analysis as I only did 3k miles on the 507 oil after delete... I do remember getting analysis when on the 507 Liquimoly and the TBN was always in the 1.x range after 10K before the delete. The Rotella being at 7.7 I thought was pretty impressive... I am so impressed that I am switching my R32 VR6 to the Rotella next oil change.

justinj229 said:

Also, my trusted TDI mechanic just recommended Shell Rotella .. he said it's not a 507 but it's legit... what do you guys think?

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Don't trust him anymore. His data isn't current. Rotella is fine in the engine, bad for the OE emissions system. It'll be very expensive in the long run.

Just how bad the RT6 will be for the dpf is speculation. I don't think most ash loading is caused by oil consumption. I wouldn't throw the mechanic under the bus just for that suggestion.

This article may help shed some light on this subject...
http://www.oilspecifications.org/articles/vw_motor_oil_specifications_explained.php

Pretty much says what everyone else here has been saying...

Is your car equipped with a Diesel Particulate Filter? If yes then you must select a spec that calls for a so called low SAPS oil. If you use a regular oil you will gradually destroy your DPF, which is expensive to replace.

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For even more details I found this little bit of info on Low SAPs oil...

When the oil burns in an engine, naturally it emits some gas but some of these gases could be harmful to a DPF. Low SAPS oils are specifically designed to be low in Sulphated Ash – a by-product of combustion that can cause the ‘mesh’ structure in a DPF to become irreversibly blocked. Such oils that are not low in Phosphorus and Sulphur can also have a significant, detrimental effect on Catalytic Converters – so the issue of getting the right engine oil is relevant to petrol and diesel vehicles alike.

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-source: http://www.commaoil.com/diesel-particulate-filters

I go to the dealer. I can buy the Castrol Pro 504/507 spec 5-30W oil for $8.99/Liter. I also get the Mann filter from VW dealer, forgot what I pay for filter, but it is competitive.... I think I get 10% discount from parts guy... always ask for discount from full list.

I don't believe in stocking up on oil and filters. At 6000-7000 miles per oil change I only change oil every 8 months. No need to stock it, buy when needed. If I went the full 10K per VW maintenance schedule I would change oil once a year....

Last time I changed my habit, switched gears and went to NAPA, got 5L of Liqui Moly 504/507 Spec 5-30W "Top Tec 4200" oil for about $50 out the door. Call ahead and make sure they order it. Usually takes a day for them to get from warehouse.

I still prefer buying individual liters of Castrol Pro "Edge" and filter from VW dealer.... Since I bought my car from them, I think I get 10% discount.

As far as non 507 Spec 5-40W better (less wear) than 507 Spec 5-30W... No... If that is logic, get 15-50W? "More better?" No, test prove this logic is false, regarding wear.
As far as not using 507 spec, you risk more Ash load in DPF. To each his own (but not under warranty, I believe emission warranty goes to 80,000 miles by Federal law.)

^^Wow, good for you! You'll never see a return on the extra cost of a tdi with less than 10k miles a year. As for the extra unnecessary oil changes, whatever allows you to sleep at night i guess. More better??

Using your logic it would be "more better" to change the oil every 500 miles! How you can stand frequent visits to the dealership is beyond me.

The oil change interval is set at 10K miles or 12 months. That said, get your oil analyzed by blackstone labs to be sure you're changing it on time.

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/

ATR said:

The oil change interval is set at 10K miles or 12 months. That said, get your oil analyzed by blackstone labs to be sure you're changing it on time....

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Unless I was in a state with >5% biodiesel content, or had some other reason to be concerned, I wouldn't bother with used oil analysis. Factory spec is well proven over the years.

tditom said:

Unless I was in a state with >5% biodiesel content, or had some other reason to be concerned, I wouldn't bother with used oil analysis. Factory spec is well proven over the years.

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It is something to check out if you are at all interested in finding out how well your engine is doing with the oil change interval. Most common rails that are 100% highway and don't tow anything may be fine with getting their oil changed between 15-20k miles. Cars that see more of a mix could be between 8-15k miles. And as you said, if your state has a higher % of biodiesel the oil change interval may be even less.

One of these days I plan to send in a sample for UOA. At 105k , I figure my motor is now more or less fully broken in. I do two or three oil changes a year, and might extend the summer run if the numbers look good.

Another question I noticed IDparts comes with a drain plug. Is that necessary every oil change? The kits they sale come with :


All are 507.00 approved and are 5w30 weight oils. (all 507.00 oils are 5w30 viscosity)
The kit comes with a MANN oil filter with seals. MANN is the largest producer of OE oil filters for VW. You can alternatively select the OEM VW oil filter.

Also includes a new drain plug, using a new plug every oil change can help prevent the threads in the pan from stripping.

You seem to have answered your own question. It might not be the best idea, but I have done 10 bottom drain oil changes with the original plug. The pan won't strip out if you don't over torque.

We provide a drain plug with every oil change kit. However I tend to use the plug I have unless I see any evidence of a leak, or if the drain plug doesn't thread smoothly. Then I use a new one.

Having a new plug is a good idea just in case the old one had an issue. For me I installed a fumoto valve so I don't have to worry about the plug. The valve has a hose barb and I connect a length of silicone hose and drain directly back into the previous jug. Easy to dispose of that way. No drain pan needed

I have thought about getting a fumoto valve many times. But it just seems like adding another failure point. And it is really just as easy to remove the plug.

turbobrick240 said:

I have thought about getting a fumoto valve many times. But it just seems like adding another failure point. And it is really just as easy to remove the plug.

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I waffled back and forth for quite a while. I am glad I did install it now. It is really well made and I have opened it and drained my JSW 5 times and the Passat 6 so far and no issues or leaks at all. Only drawback is it drains really slow but I start the drain and then go up top and change the filters and by that time it has drained.

Yeah, everyone who I've talked to that has a fumoto seems to love it. And I have had the joy of warm motor oil running down my arm many times. I could do without that. Who knows, I may yet pick one up.