What did you do to your MK7 today?

Gotta find my real camera, or maybe get the car out of my relatively dark garage. I'm loving the way it looks now, makes a huge difference. Just need the stupid driver side triangle piece so I can put in that pillar... and I'm losing the will to wait for decent condition visors to show up on eBay. Probably going to call around and see if there are some available in the local area.

Still need to order black homelink buttons and my rearview mirror trim is gray. I don't want to replace the mirror with a new one that is then going to be replaced again when I replace the windshield but if I can find the basic mirror cheap on eBay I'll grab it.

S model came with crappy wshield, distortion, cloudy lam layer. Replaced mine with a grey tint st gobain-securit, what a difference over factory glass trees wiggling in side areas.

Cuzoe did you replace your rear shocks with koni actives yet? Only mentioned because oe shocks are so detrimental to handling. you'll be glad you did. What rear brakes did you use?

I did replace them but I'm running Bilstein B4 Damptronics (DCC) front and rear, along with GTI springs. The lower bushing of the rear GTI damper doesn't fit into the opening of our torsion beam so I had to (with heat, a press and foul language) remove the bushing from my stock rear damper and install it in the new Damptronic unit.

Running stock rear brakes for now, waiting for my PP rears to come back from paint. It got "cold" here and the painter is worried about the paint still being soft.

I was coming from B8's with H&R's all around and while the handling was good (strictly Canyon driving for me in SoCal) I can't say I was a fan of the ride quality. I've got a remote session coming up this weekend to get Driving Profiles and ACC activated along with basic settings/adaptation of DCC.

The rear brakes upgrade made a huge difference for me and i only used the stock gti calipers and vented slotted rotors. Braking felt much more balanced and progressive.

That's good to hear. I was hoping to do all four brakes at the same time but it didn't quite work out that way. Everyone says the rear brakes don't make a difference but not many people seem to be speaking from experience.

Cuzoe said:

...Everyone says the rear brakes don't make a difference but not many people seem to be speaking from experience.

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Whoever says that has never driven a car with a well balanced brake set up...

Remember that most people are over rated. Rear brakes make a big difference indeed. VW doesn't even use the puny rear brakes on our cars on the beam axle jettas.

Had plans to install the rear brakes this evening, then realized that I didn't buy banjo bolts. These are PP rears, is it correct that I need 12mm (M12) banjo bolts? And does anybody know a place that actually carries them?

VW doesn't sell them separately from the brake line. And of course I can order them from somewhere but I really want to get all of my brake work done right now (tomorrow) while the car is sitting in my garage on jack stands.

There's not a ton of info out there but from what I gather cars (Golf R) with electronic parking brake are 10mm while the GTI with traditional parking brake got 12mm. Does that carry over to Golfs with traditional parking brake? Is there any chance that the bolts on my car now are 12mm?

www.techna-fit.com

Has everything you will need. Except you will need splash plates from a 2019 jetta for the larger rotors. You probably will have to remount the e-brake cable brackets on your calipers in a positiion so the cables lay in original position. That involves drilling and tapping a new hole in the caliper holding the e-brake cable bracket. You will need to measure the length needed for your new brake lines. I would suggest you get the jetta splash plates first as they are installed first unless you want to simply cut the original ones lip off. The beam axle caliper orientation makes these mods necessary but they are easy. I have to assume the PP caliper has simular e-brake cable bracket to standard gti.

I already have custom lines by technafit. I ordered splash shields but there were two possibilities on the 2019 Jetta and the ones I ordered were not the right ones. I'm not ordering another set, I'll just snip the ones on my car.

I don't have the tools, skill or will to tap another hole. I'm not that worried about the e-brake cables laying in the original position, did a test fit of these calipers almost 3 years ago and we were fine with the e-brake cable re-routing. The brake lines I had just weren't long enough. There are some others running these rears that didn't tap new holes.

The only thing I don't have for this install is the banjo bolt . That's why I was asking if the banjo bolt on my stock calipers was the same size. I know I can order the bolt easy enough. I just want to do the install today.

I have to bleed my rears today anyway so I'm going to pull the bolt out and see if it fits into the PP calipers. I'll report back for the three other people interested in this, haha.

Edit: Banjo bolt from the stock calipers does fit the PP calipers.

The jetta splash plates you need are for the beam axle ones not the gli. If you already have the lines, are the ends for 12mm banjo? If so, you could use your original banjo bolts but you will need 4 washers for the 12mm banjo's as you will have to cut the washers off your original lines. If the lines were made for 10.mm banjos then you are screwed and need new lines made.

Its so easy to remount the e-brake hardware and I'm sure you could get someone to do it for you. It makes the job look professional and won't have people asking.

I'm not a professional and no people will be looking at my car or asking any questions except me, haha. I also suspect the questions I'll be getting will revolve around my TDI having DCC .

The right side is installed, just having some lunch and then I'm going to do the left. You are right that I could get someone to do it but it wouldn't happen today, and today is when these are getting installed.

I didn't have to cut those washers to take them off, they're soft metal as expected. In any case I did replace them with copper ones of the same thickness. My snips made easy work of the dust shield lip and then I took a file to it to clean up the rough edge.

You may run into another issue in the fact that with the multipot calipers that you have longer pedal travel than normal. Cure is to change the m/c to the pp one.

I don't know how to attach pictures here but you are correct. I have the PP master cylinder. I was already running 6 pot, Brembos 17z... I have now gone down to 4 pot from the Porsche Macan

I would think now your car will stop on a dime. You'll feel the rear braking in your butt dyno the way of improvement.

Took it for a drive... tons of stopping power and progressive but the pedal is soft up top. Softer than when I had the 6 pots which tells me I need more practice bleeding brakes. And by more practice I mean I'm going to have the shop that does my alignment do it, haha. Other cars on the road so I didn't really get into it.

DCC retrofit is done. Sport mode keeps it flat in the corners (feels like my B8/H&R setup) and in any mode other than Sport it's doing a good job muting road imperfections. I'm happy with it... exactly what I was going for, some stiffness in the corners but also factory height. The rear feels a bit stiff but I think it's the level sensor. The values don't move smoothly in VCDS measuring blocks, seems like the potentiometer has flat spots. It's not stiffer than my B8's but I thought it would be softer out back.

ACC and BSM retrofit is done too. Turns out I didn't need to change my ABS module like @Nuje. Unverifiable PR code research suggests I would have needed to replace the module if my car was DSG. I'm still planning to replace the module because I want that TPMS set button to work and my ABS doesn't support it.

The softness in the pedal feel is most likely the pads are not fully seated, broken in. The break in procedure described by some really doesn't work, what works is driving the car a couple thousand miles. the pedal will get gradually better but not all at once. Its not air in the lines so bleeding them again is not the answer. The pads are quite large so it may take a bit longer as the friction surfaces are two or three times the area of the original pads. With my standard gti rotors and calipers it took about 1500 miles of driving to fully seat the akebono ceramic pads. I don't know if you are using a softer pad or the harder ceramics.

@thundershorts we both seemingly got distracted from our PM conversation.

Did you take any photos of your drilling/tapping of the calipers for the parking brake? Going to go with non-PP GTI fronts and rears with 312mm/272mm rotors respectively. Calipers and carriers are about $50-$80 a corner from a local salvage yard. I only ask as I'm just trying to visualize the work that needs to be done ahead of time and its hard with you seemingly being the only person who's done it as you describe.

On an unrelated note, I bought a new toy: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08NFLL3NT/

Works great on iOS over bluetooth, and being a genuine ELM v1.4b device, is very stable. And for $30, it also comes with a license for OBD Fusion which is the $9.99 iOS equivalent of Torque. Couple screenshots:



Wondering if any of ya'll knew for sure what the EGT sensors on bank 1 were? From what I've gathered:

• EGT1 = G235 = Pre-Exhaust Turbine (Turbo)
• EGT 2 = ?
• EGT 3 = G495 = Post-Cat and Pre-DPF
• EGT 4= G648 = Post-DPF

EGT2 is unlabeled on the study-guide. But I'm going to assume is post-turbo and pre-cat.

It doesn't involve drilling a new hole for brake line. Since the calipers you will be using are not from a beam axle car, the e-brake cable orientation is different. You could reroute the cable to fit but it looks awful. What you need to do is remove the three parts of the e-brake hardware from the donor caliper, arm, spring, cable bracket which is held to the caliper by one 4mm cap screw. Then reposition the cable bracket to same position as it is on your original caliper. Mark for the new hole to drill for new position of the cable bracket, drill and tap hole, reinstall bracket, reinstall arm on the spline, reinstall spring. Just use your original caliper as your reference. You will need to have tecnafit make longer lines, mine are2" longer with 10mm banjo ends. Original lines are 12mm . It's not hard and takes 20min. The splash plates are too small for the larger rotors so either trim the lip off or buy 2019 jetta plates. Sorry i didn't take photos but its straightforward.

Additional note, Don't drill the holes too deep, only deep enough otherwise you risk going through into the fluid chamber. I really don't remember if the cap screw was m4 or m5 so you'll just have to pull one out to see. I've done three of these conversions so far, everyone very happy. 50-60 per caliper/bracket is right price, thats what i paid.

Come to Los Angeles and you can do mine, haha. As for the pedal softness... I do hope it's just the new pads/rotors causing it. The "problem" is that I only live 2 miles from work, which means I don't typically drive the TDI (our EV is perfect for my commute). So except when I was doing Sat/Sun canyon drives I was only putting 3-400 miles on it per month. And the canyon drives are exactly what I won't do with a soft pedal.

Even your short drive will have stops and starts, you just need lots of brake applications. Your new rotors also have a coating that needs to wear off as well. Does the acc change the steering ratio of just the amount of steering assist? Your canyon drive will be good to help seat the pads/rotors. I'll bet it really stops fast now.

@thundershorts I understand now. I misinterpreted what exactly the difference was that we were fixing. Thank you!

thundershorts said:

Even your short drive will have stops and starts, you just need lots of brake applications. Your new rotors also have a coating that needs to wear off as well. Does the acc change the steering ratio of just the amount of steering assist? Your canyon drive will be good to help seat the pads/rotors. I'll bet it really stops fast now.

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Do you mean the Driving Mode changes? If so, I'm not really noticing a difference in the steering in my limited driving thus far. In my wife's Tesla (so apples to oranges) the difference in comfort, normal and sport steering is dramatic. According to some VW documentation in Sport the power steering is "amplified to increase agility and provide a more dynamic driving experience." I take this to mean inputs are boosted (which I guess would be experienced as a quicker ratio) and maybe resistance added to give a heavier feel. Don't know if this is speed dependent though. I need to find more documentation.

In the R, for instance, the control for driving modes changes the actual steering ratio, not just the amount of assist. In vcds 44 I was able to change the amount of assist but not ratio. Perhaps the rack is different. I was curious if dcc was able to impart the steering changes with your setup.

When I call Technafit, what exactly am I asking for? MK7 TDI lines, but make the rears 2” longer with 10mm banjo fittings?

No worries, I want to be thorough with my retrofit, haha. There was a moment when I decided to retrofit Parking Assist that I wondered if I would need to replace steering rack or steering electronics unit. My thought then was that it might be required in order for the auto steering to work. Once I was satisfied that wasn't necessary I just assumed that everything steering related was the same across all the Golf/GTI/R vehicles. That's what I get for assuming...

And I missed the best (most economical) chance to replace the steering rack, at the same time that I was getting the aluminum subframe installed.