Glow Plug Recall

I know the glow plug recall applies only to newer model TDIs, but does anyone know whether or not any 2001 New Beetle TDIs have had any glow plug issues? At what mileage are the glow plugs likely to fail for my car (01 NB TDI). What does the book say for labor (time) and how much time does it actually take for a mechanic to do a glow plug job? Also, would a reflash be necessary if my plugs are not stock Bosch? Could use some coaching, I live in MA and cold weather approacheth...oh my!

No ALH engine(witch you have) (99-03) don't have update on software. Just wait tool you get check engine light for glow plugs. Then you will need replace harness for it and glow plugs.
Only PD-s has it.
And problem was original glow plugs was 7 Volts and new ones is 5 Volts.
So the problem was it will kill new glow plugs in week and CEL will come on.
So ECU needed to be reprogram to reduce this problem.
But it is only on PD engines.

I would leave them alone unless you get a GP related CEL. It wouldn't hurt to apply some penetrating oil at the base of the threads from time to time just in case one of them does need replacing. Do not attempt to remove unless absolutely necessary because you risk stripping the fine Al. threads; thus the penetrating oil.

Glow plugs

Honeybettle the glow plugs are usually easy to remove if you follow the right procedure. Do a search & advanced search on glow plug removal. It has been covered many times before. The search is your friend.

Glow Plug Removal

Yes, the check engine light is ON and I can't start my car in cold weather (which has officially arrived today). Also, someone mentioned to replace them, follow the instructions.....is this a good idea? I'm not a technician....but would LOVE to save that over $800 the dealer in Auburn, MA quoted me to replace the plugs, harness and whatever else you have to replace. Seems like a lot to me. I would like some advice on who can do this for me near the Worcester MA area...any idea?

Also, I'm pretty sure I have a rotary pump engine, not a PD one. So......I really need help, who can I get to fix the glow plugs. I'm ready to have this fixed tomorrow, if possible!!!!! Can't jump my engine forever and it's cold, getting colder.

I looked at 2004StarwarsTDI links, the one on glow plugs 101 Ver 2.0 looks wonderful, but I'm not confident enough to do this on my only car....that I NEED to drive. Also, jetta97's info is helpful and the info JB05 gave is also helpful.......would it be ok to unhook the harnes and put some of that penetrating oil on the plugs before I do anything? What is penetrating oil, do you have a brand name? Where precisely should I put the oil? Or should I just simply leave it alone because I'm a rookie, maybe find (if possible) a good service pro......My nearest dealer is Auburn VW, in Auburn MA, but I'm afraid I've had to re-fix their repairs or take my car back for something to be tightned or re-fixed after they charge me an arm and a leg to repair something. So, regardless of good intentions, poor performance tells me maybe I can't depend upon them to fix or diagnose my glow plug issue. This is very IMPORTANT to me! ....In MA, I can't pass inspection with my check engine light on and It's getting so that I can't start my car either. I would love to do it myself, but I can't reflash an ECU...don't know how. And I don't want to strip anything or break anything...what a mess that would be. I like a certian measure of warranty on repair too. Your help would be much appreciated!!!!

Try This

Hi,
Noticed your post and wanted to share. I did the Glow Plug 101 v2 from wingnut and when everything came up fine, the way he said it should, then I got confused. So I looked all around and couldnt find answers. Went and visited my local TDI Guru in Atlanta and he cracked open and checked timing, etc, etc. No problem. But here is the thing that I noticed.

As I went through the glow plug 101 and when I had the temp sensor unplugged I went ahead and turned motor on (everything else was plugged up, glow plutgs, etc) and teh motor turned on first try, no smoke, etc. So I thought, maybe I should see what happens with it plugged back in. Back to slow start, etc. So today I replaced my coolant temp sensor and not only did the check engine light go off but the car is running smoother, cranking faster, etc. I told my TDI Guru and he had never heard of it. I guess the coolant temp sensor was sending a fault code to the engine control unit and the ECU couldnt find out it wasnt the glow plugs but the coolant sensor...

So morale of the story is if ALL checks out as normal (values come back what Wingnut in Glow Plug 101 says) then test your coolant temp sensor (the sensor itself, not the harness) and possibly see if you start easier with it disconnected. If so consider replacing it before you think its something worse.

FYI.. the dealer here in Atlanta wanted $905 US to do a Glow plug test, temp sensor, and coolant flush.... The part cost me $33 at dealer and 10 minutes to do the change myself!!!!!

Thanks to Roger Feldt on TRUSTED MECHANIC section on this forum for testing the BIG things after I did the small.. and giving me the courage to keep looking and confidence to fix it myself.

D0nalba1n

Check the trusted mechanic link on this forum. $800??? I think they saw you coming.

OK, a few days ago I brought my car to NAPA looking for a dip stick heater (cause it's cold and the glow plugs don't work) and the guy at NAPA put a test light on the glow plug harness (where the wires are connected-2-wire harness for the 01 NB TDI). He said there is no juice going to the harness and his bet would be the relay is bad. So, he suggested to check the relay. I just figured out where the relay panel is, and yesterday I bought a digital multimeter. So, today I'm going to check the relay. I'm glad to hear about the coolant temp sensor. If all checks out well, I'll follow that lead too and if I can....I'll check that too. Yes.....I'm not too happy about the $875 estimate for replacing my glow plugs, harness and relay. So, we shall keep our fingers crossed.....hopefully it's only a bad relay or something simple I can solve myself and my glow plug issue will be gone for a while and I'll be a very happy camper and very happy TDI owner!!!!

HoneyBeetle, do you know what the fault code is? Have you used your new DMM to check the resistance of each of the glow plugs? There is a lot you can do potentially to find the problem using your new multimeter, and be confident that you won't screw anything up.

Maybe you should just work through Wingnut's how-to and let us know if you have any problems.

Removing the GP's on an eight year old car could be kind of tricky as they tend to become seized to the Al threads inside the cylinder head. Don't change them if the ohm meter readings are within spec. Let us know how you make out.

For $875 I could fly to Boston and fix it in the airport and fly back the same day!

Try one of these trusted mechanics:

Kraftwerke
10 Rex dr.
Braintree, MA 02184
(781) 849-5888 Chris Hill aka MRCHILL
http://www.kraftwerke1.com

Common Street Auto Repair
500 Common St,
Belmont, MA 02478
(617) 484-9814

jollyGreenGiant in Bradford, ma
Bradford, MA 01835
(508) 889-2620, Jonathan Hess
jvhess@comcast.net

OK people......UPDATE on the glow plug issue......Yes, I emailed Chris from Kraftwerk. He seems like a good mechanic, but I wanted to try to fix it myself first. Sooooooo........I tested the glow plugs, 3 out of 4 were DEAD. Now they are fixed (HA....it's a good feeling). However, this morning, my car wouldn't start (bad feeling). Eventually, I got her started and begain my diagnostics again.

Searched and searched for the coolant plugs. With Wingnut's fast and friendly help, I found them. Then, I tested them the same way I tested my glow plugs, with a tester light. I didn't know whether or not the engine key should be off or on, so I tested them both ways.

Yuck...they were rusty, so I knew they wouldn't work. The light didn't light. So, until I can order new ones, I put dialectic greese on the harnesses and put some "Blaster" penetrating catalyst on the coolant glow plugs to clean them off and I scrubbed them with a clean copper brillow pad I had in my kitchen (the kind with no soap).

I also tried to unhook the coolant sensor thingy. It took a while to find this too, but I did! I couldn't press the tab with my thumb and wiggle the connector out of the socket like Wingnut said in Glow Plug 101 2.0.

So...I got bored and tried to crawl under my car...in the dark....with a head lamp on my head. I enjoyed it! Makes me feel empowered!
I sprayed "Blaster" on some bolts and things I saw under there that looked sort of rusty. I also sprayed some WD-40 type lubricant on some electrical componants under the hood. While looking under the hood, I found another electrical thingy that looks similar to the coolant sensor plug. This plug is on the passenger side, near the front toward the head light around the radiator area.

Could this possibly be the MAF? Is this the thing Wingnut suggested we try to unplug (for practice) and plug back again? No offense, what the heck is a MAF, no matter. Anyway....I may have found it and I'll practice the thumb tab trick first and try to unplug the coolant sensor plug so I can test my harness and relay.

If I could figure out how to post pictures on this website, I'd demonstrate what I'm doing. Maybe some poor soul can reap some benefit, maybe I could explain my sigtuation better to you. Maybe you guys would get a good laugh!!!!

NOTE to self: Ever hear of more women working on their TDIs? Are there any good woman mechanics or is this one of the last guy frontiers?

Anyway.....I got board and I'm frustrated so I did something else:

I went into my husband's tools to find a 12mm thing-a-ma-bob and a long thingy that you use with the thing-a-ma-bob. We don't have the 12mm and the thing-a-ma-bobs we have a too short. So, I know what's on my grocery list when I go to CAP tomorrow. I need some coolant glow plugs and a 12mm long socket and a nice long handled wrench. I'll price coolant sensors too while I'm there. I wouldn't doubt there's issues with all of it.

Then, I fantasized about whether or not the socket wrenches and ratchets have pink or colored handles, or special grips for small hands........how about neon green.

Oh, I want my own tool bag too...of course. Girls can't have too many bags you know.

The last thing I did was, I took some pictures of my garden Gnome and my Beetle, with the tarp under the hatch.......and the air freshner tree too (laughing)!

So, all is not lost....it's still a good day. I'll figure out how to start my car again without glow plugs or whatever...coolant sensors or whatever, again in the morning.

OH, the fault code is (or was):
P0380

A friend cleared the code for me....I dunno whether or not the code will flash sometime again. So far, it hasn't in the past 48 hours. Until then, I still can't start my car in cold weather.....Dip stick heater is a silly idea, I ditched it and it sits in my driveway never to be used in my Beetle again...(lol)!

Also, in case you didn't know, my beetle is not automatic.

NOTE: car wont start in temps below 32 degrees farenheight....or if it sits longer than 8 hours in cold temps.

Update:

This morning, TDI ALMOST didn't crank on her own. Outside temp: around 32 degrees farenheight. Car was driven about 8 hours prior.

Yesterday: TDI would NOT start. Outside temp: below 32 degrees. Car sat for over 12 hours prior

We use a quick start jump to get her going. Dealer checked my battery and alternator, they checked out fine.

Note: This is the NON starting behavior; the engine hesitates, the electrical system seems to click on and off, I hear clicking sounds, the starter wants to turn over but doesn't, all the lights flash in the controle panel and interior. Then, the starter stopps cranking and there's no clicking sounds. At this time, there's no hope to start her without a jump. This happens in cold weather. It only did this once, this past summer, in warm weather, when she sat for over 24 hours.

Also, I noticed, even with the glow plugs repaired, the yellow glow plug indicator light in the dash doesn't illuminate very long (like it used to when the glow plugs were opperable...back in the day).

Does this help?

Any advice?

So, the fault code you had cleared was to do with faults in the glow plug system. http://wiki.ross-tech.com/index.php/16764/P0380/000869

If the glow plug light doesn't stay on for more than about three seconds, something is up. You might try cycling the key off and back on, to get the plugs to fire up again before you try to turn over the engine.

Fred:
Since your name is "hopefulFred" would you happen to have some hopefull news for my new glow plug install project?

While trying to work through other things like coolant glow plugs and sensors..........I tested my new glow plugs with a test light.

The new glow plugs installed 3 days ago in my Beetle don't set off the test light. I don't think this is normal. To test them, I attached to the ground wire on my batter, the aligator clip with the long cord attached to my test light. Then, I touched the tip of the tester to the glow plugs (like I was testing a fuse). This test did not light the tester. I tried it on my fuses on top of the battery (just to check I was performing the test properly). The test light worked when I tested the glow plug fuse, but not the glow plugs.

Before the new plugs were installed, I ran this same simple test on the old glow plugs (as described, above). At that time, I noticed 1 glow plug set off the light and 3 didn't. So, just to be thorough, I simply replaced all 4 glow plugs.

Now, I'm sad......no light....any clue?

On another note: I also tried to switch the key on and off a few times as you suggested before cranking her up completely to trick the glow plug indicator to fire up the glow plugs. This trick didn't seem to make a difference. The light flashed on and off rather quickly.........the "curly-q" indicator light above the spedomoter doesn't stay illuminated longer than 1 second. Normally, it comes on for 3 seconds or more....way back when my glow plugs were fine.

Anyway, while I'm working through these issues, following the glow plug 101 v2......I don't understand why my new glow plugs are NOT triggering my tester light to turn on? Would you suggest I try to use my new multimeter? I can try to test the ohms, but I don't think there is energy in them. Is this normal?

HoneyBeetle said:

I don't understand why my new glow plugs are NOT triggering my tester light to turn on? Would you suggest I try to use my new multimeter? I can try to test the ohms, but I don't think there is energy in them. Is this normal?

Click to expand...

There's a problem with your techniques. When you attach the test light to the battery ground and probe various electrical components - you're trying to detect voltage. Voltage is the energy in the system (in layman's terms) and comes through wires from the battery. You're only going to find positive results when a component is plugged in and powered up - in this case through the harness. (I understood you to say that you had the harness disconnected when you tried to use the circuit tester.)

Typically, glow-plugs fail by burning out - like light bulbs. The wire inside them (analogous to the filament in a light bulb) breaks, and the circuit fails (opens). If you use your multimeter, you can detect this.

The body of the glow plug is connected electrically to the engine and through the engine to the battery ground. You want to know if there is a continuous circuit between the top (electrical terminal) of the glow plug and the battery ground. Only if this circuit is of reasonably low resistance can enough electricity flow through the plugs and cause them to heat up. To test for that resistance, set your multimeter to ohms and touch one probe to the ground post of the battery and the other probe to the glow plug tip (disconnect the wiring harness). Repeat this for all four glow plugs and you should find that the resistances are very similar. This is one of the basic tests that the computer is engaged in when it runs it's self-diagnostics. If one is significantly different, a fault code will be stored in the computer and the MIL should come on.

If you've replaced all the plugs - they should match very closely and this is not your problem. It may have been part of your problem, but new plugs will have fixed it.

It seems the problem you have is that the computer is either unwilling to fully activate the system (either because it doesn't think you need it or it thinks it's going to damage something if it does) or unable to fully activate the system (because of a faulty component, like a relay). It looks to me like you need to be determining why the light doesn't stay on. I think the keys to figuring that out are in the GP 101 thread, but I'm at work, so I'll need to take some time and get back to you.

Meanwhile, I "hope" this is helpful and that I haven't missed the mark and come off condescending. The former physics teacher in me spotted some basic misapprehensions that were going to prohibit your successfully handling this. Perhaps the misapprehension was mine.

Fred

Did you get the coolant temp sensor unplugged and check for voltage in the harness?

No, I still can't get the durn thing unhooked (coolant temp sensor). Maybe my hands are too weak or something. Anyhow, I did check some things with my multimeter.

I'd like to post my demonstration and pictures. My pictures don't seem to post on this platform. I need to figure out how to post pictures in a forum reply first, then I can show you.

Hey Honey,don't feel like the Lone Ranger, I have been trying to get the CTS disconnected for 2 days. Can't seem to find that elusive little release on that plug. Good luck.

In my experience, it's magic - sometimes you get it easily and sometimes you want to take a hammer to it...

Really, though - it's all in the way you squeeze the release tab. Sometimes it feel like you are pulling the tab in the same direction as the connector, and sometimes it's more like you're squeezing it toward the wires. Commonly, it helps to push the connector down onto the sensor - that frees up some slack and allows the release tab to clear the nib on the sensor. Once you get it, it usually slides off with very little force.

WOW, look what I found: (no endorsements of course, simply found it and wanted to share what I found with others)

Coolant Glow Plugs (yippe), a new glow plug harness for CHEEP (If I need one).

I have a question....WHAT IS A COOLANT GLOW PLUG CONTROL UNIT AND where would I find it in my TDI? Should I test that too?

I copied the pic, below
Coolant Glow Plug 12mm (A4) $24.95 Coolant Glow Plug Control Unit (A3)(B4) $99.95 Early A4 Glow Plug Harness (also A3/B4) $62.95

Both or neither may prove useful to you, but at this point I suspect neither. The coolant GPs may not be working (you'd have to test them) but they won't change the way the engine starts.

The harnesses commonly go bad, but faults in them will set fault codes and turn your check engine light back on.

What you need is to figure out if you can force your glow plugs on for the long time (20 seconds). Hopefully, unplugging the CTS will do this, and then you'll have found your problem. If not... well, we better wait and see.

The "coolant glow plug control unit" you have pictured is not for your car.

There's a difficult locking tab on the connector for the temperature sensor. It is easier to remove the connector if you push it more "on" while pressing down on the edge of the locking tab (wire end of the connector), then pull the connector off. You'll feel the tab is as a FLAT part of the connector. Look at other connectors in the engine compartment to see what I'm typing about.

Post 16 suggests the battery has/had a very low charge, in spite of what later testing showed.

You may need to get this car to some one who knows TDIs and is capable of checking the start of injection timing. When properly set, these engines don't require a lot of cranking to get them started at any reasonable temperature (provided the battery is good) with or without working glow plugs.

HopefulFred said:

The coolant GPs may not be working (you’d have to test them) but they won’t change the way the engine starts.

Click to expand...

I did test the coolant glow plugs, for volts and continuity (ohms), with the ignition off and the ignition on. I got NO readings. I suspect they are dead, they failed unless I failed my test processes.

As for the CTS, I had to recruit help with the plug. Tomorrow's another day.....same coolant temp sensor issue.

MOGolf said:

The "coolant glow plug control unit" you have pictured is not for your car.
There's a difficult locking tab on the connector for the temperature sensor. It is easier to remove the connector if you push it more "on" while pressing down on the edge of the locking tab (wire end of the connector), then pull the connector off. You'll feel the tab is as a FLAT part of the connector. Look at other connectors in the engine compartment to see what I'm typing about. .

Click to expand...

Thank you, MOGolf for your help and info. I will try it again in the morning.

MOGolf said:

Post 16 suggests the battery has/had a very low charge, in spite of what later testing showed.
You may need to get this car to someone who knows TDIs and is capable of checking the start of injection timing. When properly set, these engines don't require a lot of cranking to get them started at any reasonable temperature (provided the battery is good) with or without working glow plugs.

Click to expand...

Yes, I realize this. I’m just trying to fix things I am able to on my own. I like it and it helps me to know and understand more. Often, knowledge is power.

BTW: Made an appointment with Chris Hill, in Braintree, MA, that’s aka Mr CHILL. I hope he is honest and a good mechanic.

My Beetle ain’t perfect, but she’s my ride and I really like her a lot.

One more thing regarding the battery had a very low charge:

We jump-start the TDI only under 2 circumstances:

1) My TDI doesn't get driven (24 hours in warm weather or 12 hours in cooler weather), or

2) the temperature outside dips below 40 degrees farenheight.

I don't venture to guess why. The battery tests out fine, the "stealership" says I have no electrical issues that would cause this.

Maybe I'll get to the root cause eventually. So far, I replaced 4 glow plugs, the coolant glow plugs are shot (presumably) and I'm not sure about the coolant temp sensor.

Actually, I tested the continuity in the Glow Plug relay also today (yes, I would like a pat on the back for that).

Here is my Glow Plug Relay. It was numbered 54:

http://pics.tdiclub.com/showphoto.php?photo=59574&cat=516

I checked in my Haynes manual on how to do it. I got consistend ohms readings on the 85 and 86 control circuts in both directions. My guess is that the Glow Plug Relay is probably ok. Below, I labled the terminals with sticky notes so you could see what I was testing.

http://pics.tdiclub.com/showphoto.php?photo=59572&cat=500&ppuser=105120

http://pics.tdiclub.com/showphoto.php?photo=59573&cat=500&ppuser=105120



I think there is an issue with the coolant sensor and plugs, probably the glow plug harness. Then, I wouldn't doubt the injectors need proper timing, maybe the timing belt should be checked again. I also would like to know why, since my last oil change, my engine knocks louder than normal. Could this be the faulty timing on the injectors?

Note: The "stealership" completed replacing my fuel injectors a few days before the first of this year. So....there ya have it......go figure?

Could you tell us more about the battery? What brand? Part number?