Finishing my B4 - the "Family Vacation Package"

thechoochlyman

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
May 7, 2015
Location
Campbellsville, Kentucky
TDI
1997 B4 Sedan
I read through that one as well - looks like he also recommends pulling the IP pin before torquing the tensioner pulley, which I did not do previously.

I followed the writeup posted on our forum in the articles section. I like the way this writeup was written better, but it fails to mention any torque specs or removing of the IP pin before setting the belt tension. I also had confusion over setting the TB tensioner, obviously.

I'm definitely torquing down more on the cam pulley than what it specifies. I'll go at least 40 if not 50, depending on how I feel about it at the time.
 

kooyajerms

grocery getter
Joined
May 5, 2004
Location
Pomona, Southern California
TDI
97 B4V (mine), 11 x5 35d (hers) 04 V10 (that one you want), 2014 Q7 (mom's) 74 Shasta 1400
50 ft/lbs would make punching that sprocket out a pain in the ass. that's 50% more! Just go 40. It's not gonna come loose.
 

Abacus

That helpful B4 guy
Joined
Nov 10, 2007
Location
Relocated from Maine to Dewey, AZ
TDI
Only the B4V left
Yep, 40 is just fine and what I use as well.

No need to remove the lower TB cover or take anything off, just make sure you keep tension on the lower part of the belt so it doesn't slip a tooth. You can also have someone just hold a screwdriver in the flywheel window to make sure it doesn't move when torquing it.
 

thechoochlyman

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
May 7, 2015
Location
Campbellsville, Kentucky
TDI
1997 B4 Sedan
Got my torque wrench, tensioner, stud, nuts, and washers in yesterday - time to install this afternoon. The new nuts I got aren't shouldered but are crimped on each side, so I'll use one of the washers under it.

EDIT: Did it this morning at work. Everything it great, fuel is timed well. Engine also seems to run more smoothly with the new tensioner. I did have a heck of a time getting off the cam gear though, I know I torqued it to at least 50-60 when I put the belt on. This time I went with 40, as suggested.
 
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ToddA1

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 3, 2011
Location
NJ 08002
TDI
'96 B4V, '97 B4 (sold), '97 Jetta (scrapped)
I use 52. I never had an issue knocking off the sprocket with a punch.

Glad it's back together.

-Todd
 

nh nam vet

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2008
Location
Raymond, NH
TDI
2- 97 Passats , 02 Jetta
I have printed and used this old document from litensaftermarket.com, for timing belt tensioner setting:

http://www.litensaftermarket.com/fi...enspanner/VW_1.9L_TDI_installation_notice.pdf

which I found on the club web site a while back. Page 3 shows the timing belt tensionser pointer and the slotted window for proper tension alignment. Since you can never see it straight on while making this crucial adjustment, I use a hand held mirror to give me the correct view. Then I'll use the two pronged tensioner setting tool for alignment and the 13mm socket to set it snug before using the torque wrench.
 

thechoochlyman

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
May 7, 2015
Location
Campbellsville, Kentucky
TDI
1997 B4 Sedan
-Brakes-

I removed the hard plastic tube going between the vacuum pump and brake booster, and there seems to be no leaks. Air moves freely. Also, the ports for my air recirculation flap and EGR system are capped off - no potential loss there. Brakes still don't have that "hydraulic" feel to them that newer cars have - or even my '99 Corolla. It just takes much more force to put on the brakes than you'd expect.
 

thechoochlyman

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
May 7, 2015
Location
Campbellsville, Kentucky
TDI
1997 B4 Sedan
So, my slave fan hasn't been operational since last year due to the belt breaking. I'm a cheapskate and don't wanna have to pull the whole front end to fix it. Looks like I'll only be taking myself, my wife, and sister-in-law to Florida in three weeks with all our luggage. I've never had any issues at all with my car overheating, but what is the max safe sustained coolant temp for our cars? (using ScanGauge) Since the new thermostat I've regularly been seeing about 195 Fahrenheit.
 

vanbcguy

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2013
Location
Vancouver, BC
TDI
'93 Passat - AHU mTDI with GTB1756VK
There's no need to take the whole front end off the car to replace that belt. Just undo the 4 bolts holding the fan assembly to the radiator and tilt the fan assembly towards the engine. Install new belt, reattach, done.

Sent from my LG-H873 using Tapatalk
 

vanbcguy

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2013
Location
Vancouver, BC
TDI
'93 Passat - AHU mTDI with GTB1756VK
I'll qualify that with a comment that I haven't had AC on my cars, so the refrigerant line isn't even on my radar. But I'd be surprised if you couldn't get the fan assembly leaned back enough to get at that belt!

Sent from my LG-H873 using Tapatalk
 

thechoochlyman

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
May 7, 2015
Location
Campbellsville, Kentucky
TDI
1997 B4 Sedan
Yeah, the metal fan shroud is pretty thin. I doubt it will be that much of a problem. Definitely worth a shot at least! I also feel like not having the slave fan is keeping my AC from working at peak efficiency.
 

ToddA1

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 3, 2011
Location
NJ 08002
TDI
'96 B4V, '97 B4 (sold), '97 Jetta (scrapped)
I took a look at this last night. You may be able to just remove the screws on the passenger side and flex the shroud enough to sneak the belt in.

Stopped in traffic, I definitely believe it's affecting your efficiency. The slave may be spinning in reverse, pulling engine heat into the condenser. I've seen this happen at work a couple times when condenser fans go bad on multi-stage rooftop units, but the RTUs shut down, due to safety limits.

I saw that I had a smaller G/J fan installed... my main fan went bad a few summers back and I couldn't find a Passat in the JYs. I've noticed that my DA° suffers when stopped, but as soon as I get to around 30mph, DA° drops considerably.

I've since found the correct fan, but have been too lazy to install it.

-Todd
 

thechoochlyman

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
May 7, 2015
Location
Campbellsville, Kentucky
TDI
1997 B4 Sedan
Had a bit of a hangup fixing my rear brakes over the weekend. Left side went fine, but found out one of the sliding pins on the right side was stuck. After trying unsuccessfully to free it - and breaking it off instead - I had to embark on a quest to remove the old bracket and install the new one I've had sitting in a box for two years. They came with my calipers, but I never installed them due to the stuck bolts.

Step one was getting out the cutoff wheel and grinding off the two bracket arms so I could remove the rotor. I already tried heat on the cap screws and had no luck, to the point of rounding the heads out.





Then it's time to drill out the bolts from the backside.







I finally got it all back together in the same afternoon, but had to run to Lowe's for some replacement bolts that aren't exactly the right ones. I'm gonna order some new bolts from ID Parts later, but I also need a new E-brake cable clip. Guess it just got lost in all the confusion. :eek: Anybody have a spare old one?

New rotors are definitely in order as well, but the car is stopping fine for now. I'll probably try to do rear bearings, rotors, and pads all in one next time the job comes around.
 

thechoochlyman

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
May 7, 2015
Location
Campbellsville, Kentucky
TDI
1997 B4 Sedan
Swapped back to smaller tires after getting annoyed with the poor corner handling and acceleration with the 205/70/14s.

I put on 195/65/14s, which is just a hair bigger than stock. Now the speedometer reads basically as dead-on as it possibly can, but the odometer is still losing about 4 miles per every 100, according to the GPS/Scangauge (for every 100 miles driven according to the odometer, I've actually driven 104). No MPG data yet.
 
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